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98 AX-15 Issues

nbcaffeine

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Bradford PA
Hi guys, mostly a lurker here, any time I've had an issue someone here has already solved it. Here's an issue I didn't quite see anyone mention here or elsewhere.

It started with the clutch pedal going to the floor and not wanting to disengage the clutch enough to shift. I checked the Master Cyl and saw it was a little low on fluid, pulled the slave and saw the boot was torn and some fluid was leaking. After replacing and topping the MC res off with fluid, I could shift after pumping the clutch a few times.

Since it seemed like the slave cyl was leaking, I ordered a new prebled unit from rockauto, installed that thinking i'd be good to go. Upon doing the first clutch pedal press, the strap breaks and lets you press properly, except it went to the floor again. Looking underneath, fluid is draining out the bottom of the bellhousing, MC res on the new unit empty. adding more fluid and a quick bleed (though the documentation on the mc/sc unit was that it was not serviceable), it was leaking out the bottom again.

We were late leaving for a trip to Windrock so we took the wife's JK instead. Trip to Rausch Creek in a couple weeks and would like to drive my Cherokee instead this time.

So, do I bother with another mc/sc unit, thinking that one was bad? Would this indicate a problem in the clutch that's allowing the slave to leak? I understand conceptually how clutches work, but I'm a visual learner and have never taken one apart, so don't really know enough to diagnose it myself.

The XJ does have 220k+ miles and it's been through many hands before me, so no idea what's original in there. Any leads on this before I just bite the bullet and tow it to my local shop? Thanks.
~nb
 
I dealt with similar on a buddy's 96.
we slapped a new MC/Slave combo in it and it worked, for about 5 times. Then it also went to the floor.

The clutch release bearing was done. it worked until it rotated on the clutch fork, then the spacing was all kinds of wrong.
So I'm going to say that it's time for you to split the drivetrain, and you'll probably find the release bearing/clutch fork is hosed.

A new luk clutch kit is like $150. you can get a clutch fork from the dealer still.
Do that and it will be good to go for another 150K.
DIY it will cost you $200.
I'd expect a shop wth a lift to be able to do it in 4 hours or so. I can do it on a garage floor with jackstands in 6.
 
You replaced the Slave and it leaked?

Who made it? Source?

I would try another new SS, from another source (not AZ!!) and check the tubing/fitting itself before I split the drive trane and went after the guts, especially since you see fluid leaking!!!!! If there was no fluid leaking I would pull the transmission clutch....Like 87mancha suggests.....
 
Interesting, I would call Rock auto and see what they say. I can't see how that could leak from a fork-throwout bearing issue just pressing the foot pedal, but I am not there and have not seen one like that before.

I have had about 70% of the aftermarket parts I bought the last 3 years turn out to be crap.
 
I agree with 87--the release bearing fork and/or pivot is bad, so slave is overextending. I've broken pivot clips before.


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Spoke with my mechanic, he seems to agree with Gradon and 87, though it's possible that I got a shit Master/Slave cyl unit, or that I botched the install (since it's sooo tough heh).

He's lookin into it on Monday, we'll see what they say. thanks for the help fellas, eager to get it out to Rausch after having it sit out a trip to Windrock.
 
Since they have experience with that transmission, that I do not, they may be right.
 
Turns out, Ecomike was right, it was an issue with the master/slave cyl part. Thankfully, since it was a cheap fix compared to new clutch. Thanks guys.
 
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