8.8 setup - crush sleeves are a bitch?

[blistovmhz]

Setting up my roomies 8.8 here last night. Setup went well but having a bitch of a time crushing the crush sleeve and hoping someone can chime in on just how much torque is required.
I'm 170lbs currently, and with a breaker with a 4 foot snipe, I can't budge it. Yea, I can throw on a longer snipe, but I've put far less torque into a d30 (non-crush) and had a pinion thread strip out on me.
How much torque should be expected for this sleeve and how much can the pinion threads deal with? (all brand new hardware). I really don't want to destroy a brand new R&P (again).

 

[87manche]

http://www.summitracing.com/search/...sleeve-eliminator-kits/axle-model/ford-8-8-in

I'd do that.

 

[cal]

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/8-8-new-crush-sleeve-torque-215083/

a lot.

 

[md21722]

Last time I did my 8.25 I used an impact wrench to set the pinion preload. I alternated between a short burst of the impact and taking a rolling torque measurement until it was where it needed to be.

You can also use a torque multiplier or very long cheater pipes.

 

[blistovmhz]

Yea, impact definitely ain't goona do it. I worked in oilfield for a bunch of years, so I'm used to dealing with 60mm nuts requiring 1000ft/lbs of torque, so I've got a pretty good idea of where metal starts to rip itself apart. With my breaker (3' handle) and a 3.5' snipe, I can jump on it and it doesn't budge. I'm sure I can put more torque into it by bracing against something and using my legs to pull up, but I'm worried about stripping the pinion nut (which I've done a few times with far less torque than I've put into this 8.8).

Just trying to get a feel for how difficult this should be, and from the sounds of it, I should've already had it on. Heard of guys cutting some slits into the crush sleeve to soften it up a little. Muhdunno. All I can think to do is add a 10' snipe I've only got a 1/2" breaker though, and I'm positive I'll break it if I put any more torque into it. Need to track down a 3/4". Will be an adventure to find that around here .

 

[foxwar71]

Press. Do a 14b crush sleeve and see what's up.

 

[md21722]

I use 3/4" breaker bars all the time, even if you have 1/2" there can be enough deflection its just harder. Impact worked fine on my 8.25 but its relatively new. Check out the torque multipliers. There are notes in the Jeep FSM that say if torque required is over XXX then the crush sleeve is defective and should be discarded. I think XXX was around 390 ft-lb. Depending on the kit you're using, it very well could be. I've had new ring gear bolts start stretching. I'd guess Yukon/USA Standard/Motive all to supply good parts but who knows about the rest. A DT Components set I had used Timken bearings but everything else seemed cheaper.

 

[blistovmhz]

Yea, I'm well over 500ft-lb easily. IIRC, ft-lb is as simple as length * force, which in my case with 5' of breaker, is 170*4=680, and that's just me putting my weight on it, nevermind jumping on it.
Something is wrong. Will see if I can track down another crush sleeve before ****ing with this further and destroying a perfectly good gear set.

 

[Mach2nh]

Ya the solid spacer kit works great. I have 2 axles out in the field with them and one has been going strong for 15yrs.

 

[blistovmhz]

Got it! Can't believe no one mentioned this. Dipped the pinion but in some oil. Was able to get it to crush easily with a 2' breaker! Then just backed it back off once we had the correct preload, cleaned off the oil, and stuck it back on. Hope this helps someone.

For reference, without oil, 700ft-lbs wouldn't budge it. With oil, it took less than 340ft-lbs.

 

[GordoSmasho]

Some 8.8 crush sleeves are much harder to crush than others. I used two 6' cheaters when i did mine the first time. Second time 3' did the trick. Im a fairly strong guy but that first time i was done by the time i set that pinion preload. Called it a night and went to bed after an hour of work. Ill have to remember the oil trick.

 

[md21722]

If you over tighten, you're supposed to change the crush sleeve.

 

[Georgia Mike]

If you would like a SENSIBLY priced crush sleeve eliminator, go with Ratech @ $15. They call them "solid pinion bearing spacers". I've used them several times with great success. Yukon makes some great stuff, but their crush sleeve eliminator kits are way overpriced for what they are.


http://www.ratechmfg.com/toc.htm

http://www.ratechmfg.com/pop_up_order 4105.htm

 

[Boostwerks.com]

If you would like a SENSIBLY priced crush sleeve eliminator, go with Ratech @ $15. They call them "solid pinion bearing spacers". I've used them several times with great success. Yukon makes some great stuff, but their crush sleeve eliminator kits are way overpriced for what they are.


http://www.ratechmfg.com/toc.htm

http://www.ratechmfg.com/pop_up_order 4105.htm

These should be standard equipment for any rebuild at this point.

 

[Talyn]

I have a Ratech in my 8.25. Works great. I just wish they had one for the LP D30 in the ZJ.

 

[RWKHausSupply]

Antisieze on the threads and more importantly the face of the flange nut and where the flange rides on the yoke, is typically whats needed and I do..

Also, do NOT use a crush nut for setup do setup without a sleeve at all. Once the depth is good then reinstall the pinion with seal and crush sleeve, then use a standard nut till you just feel all slack is out of pinion. Then pull off the standard nut and brake parts clean the threads of all antisieze and install mechanical locking nut and finish the setup.

 

[93blackxj]

Hope you used some red lock tite after you cleaned the oil off the threads.