5.3 swap done cheap...ish

[MoparManiac]

Build is looking good man.

Any reason you can't push the front axle out a bit? Like 3-4"? That would give you room for the exhaust in front of the sump, help with approach angle, and weight bias.

 

[NorIdaWheeler]

Build is looking good man.

Any reason you can't push the front axle out a bit? Like 3-4"? That would give you room for the exhaust in front of the sump, help with approach angle, and weight bias.

The front axle is already pushed out somewhere around 5". I may push it maybe an inch more but with my low ride height and 42s The tires already get into the headlight buckets. :hang:

 

[John D]

It seems like just about everybody has ran their exhaust crossover under the oil pan. has anyone ran it under the bellhousing? i need ideas!

Here's what I did.

 

[NorIdaWheeler]

Here's what I did.

Yes! I was hoping you might chime in John! I knew yours went under the tranny but i had never seen a clear pic of it.

The only thing im worried about is that with the th350 there is no flexplate cover so the exhaust will be right next to my torque converter. Im worried heat will be an issue. I do plan to run a large cooler with a dedicated fan mounted in the rear hatch window so my worries may be unwarranted. I am pretty inexperienced with auto trannys though.

 

[Hoooper]

I have my exhaust run just like John does. Or at least, similar. Mine also has a cat right under the bellhousing (thanks California). Yeah it gets hot but it doesn't seem to be anything a bigger cooler can't handle. For just an exhaust pipe heat shouldn't be that big of an issue, just leave a little space between the exhaust and the trans.

Hooper what did you do for a throttle cable? I was looking a t a Lokar universal cable unless someone has found a better alternative.

mine is an electronic throttle body model so I just have wires.

 

[NorIdaWheeler]

I have my exhaust run just like John does. Or at least, similar. Mine also has a cat right under the bellhousing (thanks California). Yeah it gets hot but it doesn't seem to be anything a bigger cooler can't handle. For just an exhaust pipe heat shouldn't be that big of an issue, just leave a little space between the exhaust and the trans.



mine is an electronic throttle body model so I just have wires.

Awesome! im glad a couple others are running it that way. i feel much better about my exhaust situation now.
Im planning on just picking up some mandrel bent 180s from summit to build from. is that what you guys did?

I guess ill go with the lokar throttle cable and see how that pans out.

 

[John D]

Awesome! im glad a couple others are running it that way. i feel much better about my exhaust situation now.
Im planning on just picking up some mandrel bent 180s from summit to build from. is that what you guys did?

Got mine off eBay, was much cheaper than Summit and quality was great. http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Assorted...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item33978ccc9b
At the time he had a better selection than he does now, I bet there are others doing the same sales though.

 

[NorIdaWheeler]

I started some design on my coilover hoops and frame side trac bar mount.

The coilover hoop will be tied into my fender bar and will have tie ins down to the frame. There is an extremely limited amount of space between the brake master cylinder and the alternator for the drivers side coilover hoop.



heres the preliminary design on the trac bar mount.



All designs done in Solidworks.

 

[NorIdaWheeler]

Happy Halloween!

I spent last night cleaning the garage for a Halloween party so no progress. I did set the front end in place and snap a few pics tho. Ill never get tired of that view!

 

[Johnnie Walker]

I agree that the price is good. The price of the headers, motor mounts, and rad were in my cost factor for my LSx swap, when it happens of course. Was not aware that theirs were not together in a 'kit' from Sanderson. Good to know.

Thats the story but as far as I can tell nobody has found them from Sanderson. There was a theory on pirate that the headers were a mixture of left and right from two different sets that sanderson sells. The novak headers start at a little over $300 so even if you somehow get them to sell you the right ones how much are you going to save? Based on Sanderson's website the Novak price is pretty much the exact same as a cheap set of sanderson headers. Novak has some overpriced stuff but I dont think $327 is out of line for a set of shorty headers.

 

[Jbh97009]

I just went from 6 to midnight.....

lol that is impressive! I would love to have a 5.3 in the right xj (like yours)
Your doing a hell of a job!

Sorry if I missed it earlier, but who are you using for the computer/harness work, and what are you gonna do for a speedo (more specifically speed sensor)

 

[NorIdaWheeler]

I agree that the price is good. The price of the headers, motor mounts, and rad were in my cost factor for my LSx swap, when it happens of course. Was not aware that theirs were not together in a 'kit' from Sanderson. Good to know.

The $330 for the novaks really is a pretty good price. makes more sense than spending $250 on something else and hoping they fit. I was originally planning on going with them until i got my block huggers for free with my motor.

The motor mounts are a pretty good value also. Where i get hung up in on the radiator. I only have $170 into my griffin and its been proven to work. You just have to have enough fab skills to figure out mounts for it. i would buy a giant griffin and put it in my rear hatch window before i spent over 500 on the Novak. lol

 

[NorIdaWheeler]

I just went from 6 to midnight.....

lol that is impressive! I would love to have a 5.3 in the right xj (like yours)
Your doing a hell of a job!

Sorry if I missed it earlier, but who are you using for the computer/harness work, and what are you gonna do for a speedo (more specifically speed sensor)

Thanks! Im really trying to take my time and do it right.

My harness and tuning was done by wait4me performance. it was all done and included with my purchase of the motor! http://www.wait4meperformance.com/

Im not planning on running a speedo. I havent had one since i went to my dana 300 and i havent missed it. I wont require a speed sensor considering i am running a full manual th350.
When i was planning on running a 4l60e i was going to use an advanced a adapter vss kit and install it into my 208 adapter that im using for my dana 300. http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/716073e--4l60e--vss-40-pulse-kit-for-stock-gm-output-shaft/ :thumbup:

 

[Hoooper]

the fan makes the biggest difference on the radiator. I was overheating a bit while running the a/c in traffic before I got my fan set up. At the time I was using two 10" fans from the dirt bound triple fan kit which obviously isn't enough fan. After switching to a Volvo 2 speed (similar to Taurus fan) it doesn't get hot anymore. If I were to do it again I would probably cut the lower support and install a more square universal radiator.

 

[NorIdaWheeler]

the fan makes the biggest difference on the radiator. I was overheating a bit while running the a/c in traffic before I got my fan set up. At the time I was using two 10" fans from the dirt bound triple fan kit which obviously isn't enough fan. After switching to a Volvo 2 speed (similar to Taurus fan) it doesn't get hot anymore. If I were to do it again I would probably cut the lower support and install a more square universal radiator.

This is the radiator im running. I have a 16" Spal Im hoping i can make work. i need to figure out a decent fan shroud for it.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/gri-1-25182-x/overview/

 

[NorIdaWheeler]

I am nursing a broken thumb so progress is a bit slower than usual.

I got the trac bar mounts built and tacked into place and started on some shock hoops.
Im not happy with the lower coilover mounts and will redesign sometime this week.

 

[NorIdaWheeler]

I found a little bit of time to work on it this weekend.

Built a mount for the grill that doubles as a place to bolt the radiator mount.

 

[Hoooper]

FYI something to watch out for is your pinion to oil pan clearance. I punched a hole in my oil filter this weekend coming down heavy on both tires (thankfully no motor damage). The f-body oil pan is a lot higher up, but it does put the oil filter at least a half inch further out to the side than the truck pan does. Nothing proper bumpstops wont prevent, but make sure you have them set before you go taking any jumps or dropping off ledges or anything that will max out across the front at the same time. I had no problem stuffing the drivers side tire all the way up into a very cut out fender, but when both fronts were in compression at the same time it caused a problem. I think youre a bit higher than me, but your 60 might make that difference back up.

 

[NorIdaWheeler]

FYI something to watch out for is your pinion to oil pan clearance. I punched a hole in my oil filter this weekend coming down heavy on both tires (thankfully no motor damage). The f-body oil pan is a lot higher up, but it does put the oil filter at least a half inch further out to the side than the truck pan does. Nothing proper bumpstops wont prevent, but make sure you have them set before you go taking any jumps or dropping off ledges or anything that will max out across the front at the same time. I had no problem stuffing the drivers side tire all the way up into a very cut out fender, but when both fronts were in compression at the same time it caused a problem. I think youre a bit higher than me, but your 60 might make that difference back up.

I would be surprised if you were lower than me. My corrected axle to frame measurement is only 2" over stock at ride height. Full bump is already set and I have tons of room. My saving grace is that I'mrunning an 80s Ford 60 so the pinion is extremely offsett. Thanks for Watchinout for me though! :cheers:

 

[NorIdaWheeler]

Finally decided on some brakes. Reading brake threads is a complete shit show so i just went with what seemed most common. mc's are only 50 bucks each so i can try a couple until Im happy.

went with the wilwood 7:1 pedals and 1" and 7/8" master cylinders.
Pedals will are mounted close together with the rear on the left for easier access.

My phone took a shit so i didnt get a pic of them installed. i just cut an oversized 3/16" plate and welded it straight to the firewall and mounted the pedals/mc's through it.