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33 or 35s

Took me and two others about 10 hrs to complete.

What are those donut looking things just above the track bar? Didn't get anything like that in my kit.. Hmmmmmmm......

Looks like new isolators????

And 10 hours? Ouch. Air tools are your friend. But buy and electric impact. Speeds thing up and a great tool to have on the trail :thumbup:
 
Who uses a spotter? :)

Just drive.

X2, Close your eyes, hit the skinny pedal, hope for the best.

i ran 33s, now i run 35s. I could go anywhere I go with 33 vs 35s but i got my 35s at a screaming deal and I wanted to build and go bigger.
Mine has 3.5-4 inchs of lift, lunchbox lockers front and rear, and 4.56 gears. Id like to put an ARB in the 30 and truss it, or build a front 44 i havent decided yet, but I think im going to wheel with the lunchbox 30 a little more and see.

P5080149.jpg
 
^^^^ nice rig. Unless you're going 37's or bigger stick to the 30. A 44 swap entails a lot of time and coin. And the 30's are stronger than given credit.
 
I've got the same lift and running 33x12.5s. I trimmed front and rear fenders. If your front spring bumps stops are shot, Nows the time for those to. Frame stiffener are really nice but if it's gonna be a pavement princess/ weekend wheeler. Save the coin for other goodies. One thing you will notice with the full leaf packs is your shackle angles. (there gonna be horrible) Rear is gonna ride really stiff! Solution= boomarang shackles, which will add 1" + to the rear. Meaning you'll need to add to the front. Or get 3.5 rear leafs with 1" shackles. But back on topic.... 33's will look huge under that and be more than enough to get you where you need to go. Good luck on your lift! Took me and two others about 10 hrs to complete.

What are those donut looking things just above the track bar? Didn't get anything like that in my kit.. Hmmmmmmm......


hmm this is kinda confusing now, I might get some boomerang shackles if you say they would help a LOT for my flex and ride, (as i already have 2" shackle from my BB i can just set to 1") those little doughnuts are spacers, the guy threw em in for me since i said i was going for 5.5

maybe ill have to run a 1" spacer and a few isolator pads, to level out for the boomerang 1.3/4 inch( or whatever it is realistically)

i drive 10miles to work total everyday and some side driving, and im offroad for hours at a time so id say its a good 50/50 mix

any other things to watch out on this lift?
 
Looks like new isolators????

And 10 hours? Ouch. Air tools are your friend. But buy and electric impact. Speeds thing up and a great tool to have on the trail :thumbup:

Yeah, no air tools! Only thing electric was grinder and resip. saw for LCA brackets. Good times though.

Look into a new track bar. RC TB has poly bushings on both ends. I still run it. For now. RE seems to have a HD track bar that looks pretty beefy. IMO.
 
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I didnt read exactly what you wanted for lift, but Id stick with 4.5 max for 33.I like how my COG is with 35s the way I sit, it feel really solid in off camber situations.
 
Question 1 - Should i weld on Front/mid/rear stiffeners before installing the lift or after

Question 2 - Are boomerang shackles going to make a decent difference to help
 
Question 1 - Should i weld on Front/mid/rear stiffeners before installing the lift or after

Question 2 - Are boomerang shackles going to make a decent difference to help

1. If you really feel the need for all of them. I think just front and mid would be perfect.

2. It will give you a little bit more travel before hitting the rear crossmember.

If ya don't mind me asking what brand lift is that? and what track bar is that? Looks like it would beak EASY.
 
1. If you really feel the need for all of them. I think just front and mid would be perfect.

2. It will give you a little bit more travel before hitting the rear crossmember.

If ya don't mind me asking what brand lift is that? and what track bar is that? Looks like it would beak EASY.


doesnt really answer my first question :rof:

rear crossmember?


rough country, What would cause it to break easily and what would i replace it with?
 
But what i'm going to do is go 33's start with those and then maybe.... Just MAybe go to 35's but i don't know i think 33's are plenty big.

I haven't gotten 33's for mine but this is my rig...... it's a 6.5" longarm that redrider2911 (Kris Froehilich) made. I like the set up. you guys should look into it.....http://froehlichsuspension.com/index.html


GetAttachment.aspx


The gray one is my DD
GetAttachment.aspx


oh and BTW his site is a work in progress so..... hahaha yeah. he's just trying to get this up and running right now....
 
doesnt really answer my first question :rof:

rear crossmember?


rough country, What would cause it to break easily and what would i replace it with?

I don't know anything about the stiffiners yet cause i don't have any yet.

The rear cross memeber that you bolt the bumper to. Its not really a crossmember but thats what im calling it. lol

I would say go RE for the track bar. Great product. I had a teraflex trackbar on my old xj and that had a popping noise in about 4 months. Took it back got a refund and picked up the RE HD trackbar bracket and brace for a couple hundred bucks. Made a HUGE difference in handling.
 
Do the front stiffners pre lift as it's easier to access while parts are off mid stiffners are easy to do whith jeep drivable.

It's a very thin tracbar with less than desirable ends. Replace it with a double shear trac bar. Basically aim for something with heim ends and a bit beefier.
Rubicon Express makes very nice trac bar set ups. They can be pricey tho.
If youre looking for best ride/flex, just do shackle relocation box/mod. There are plenty of threads on here as to how.
 
How am I going to be if i just run the RC trac bar for the time being as cash is a problem, and i have other things to buy that are more beneficial atm.

I dont think it will break in a few months, maybe after that i will replace it. I am going on the lines of once it breaks ill replace. It should hold for a few months

with shackle relocation it adds 1.5+ and i have 4.5 rear packs and id sort of like to keep it around 5.5 or less
 
ya that trac bar will work for now..expecially if youre not very hard on your rig


then try a different shackle to see if it helps any, you may find it works out fine for you, my shackle angle in rear is completely opposite what it shoul be and i dont get fantastic flex out of the rear, im more than ok with it tho as i like the rear a lil stiff as i feel more stabile like that...but to each his own
 
I always say if it aint broke, dont fix it. When my track bar finally went I opted for the Rock Krawler track bar. It is the beefiest track bar that I have seen. Solid bar not a tube. It comes with a drop bracket and is easy to install. Plus it costs about the same as most of the other HD track bars out there.
 
a. I love the turquoise XJ (yours)
b. What's with the one behind it? Pink?? :laugh:
A) Thanks, appreciate it :) I've only seen one other rig in the past 4 years that's the same color as mine exactly
B) It's a friend's wife's XJ and she wanted the tan trim (country) painted pink... So he helped her tape it off and she did the rest of the work :dunno:

**Edit : On the note of frame stiffeners, if you're going to do them I'd do them after the lift. I did my before the lift, and it sucked for bolting up, since they covered all the holes (Treks stiffies). Or just measure them up before-hand and cut off material accordingly and install all together.

I just didn't think the process through all the way in all honesty... If I had, I would've noticed that the holes I needed for the bellyskid and side supports would be covered up. Learned the hard way, heh.
 
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