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...and you can let the little kids drive them without crying. I'd love a nice spendy crawler but I'll stick to my handful of $25 1:6 nylints for now.

More power (ie strong impact or breaker bar) can often result in the weld nut spinning in place. This usually requires the cut and weld approach once that happens. I have had ok success with PB Blaster as a penetrating oil. The can is cheesy looking with "as seen on TV" logo and all, but it has...

I would use angle stock of some sort. Form it to fit the contour of the roof. The weight would then be spread throughout the whole length of the roof instead of isolated points. Flat stock would have to be fairly thick or have multiple contact points with the rack to have the same weight...

I walked at my HS graduation for the parentals. Three graduations since and I haven't attended a single one. I think I'm in the 23rd grade now... In hindsight I would have dropped out of HS and gone to college early. These days college has become a joke. People matriculate having not learned...

That's what I used. Make sure you get one with a warranty as you'll invariably break the cheaper ones.

agreed. Having your cake and eating it too = two sets of tires/wheels. Street tires or ATs will last so much longer and will save you money in the long run. You'll buy two sets up front (obviously) but they will both last more than twice as long... What's your street to offroad mile ratio? how...

Count me in. Definitely on the to-do list.

I'm not sure how the in-tank exchanger would help the trans warm up. The T-stat won't open 'till 185* F. The trans will reach that far sooner on its own. Keeping the trans temp stable and consistent makes a bit more sense, however when the ambient temp is quite low the rad might see little flow...

curious regarding pricing as far as constructive criticisms are concerned... the spacing of the second to last cut-out pocket on rear flares would look better if centered between its neighbors. Any unmounted pics of the backs of the flares? Any detail shots looking up in the wheel-wells? kudos

You'll need some sort of side marker/signal/reflector to pass safety.

Thank you for the replies... much appreciated.

How many rows does the rad have? What temp did you set the fans to come on at? How did you verify that temp? Do you have a phone number for FFDynamics? Noise aside would you use their "fan kit" again or run a functioning clutch fan? Their rad is $250 sans the fan kit, but will not ship for...

like this? thanks

I'm preparing to do a bench overhaul with ring and pinion setup on a HPD30 and an XJ D44. I'm aware this isn't the easiest thing to tackle, nor am I going to save much money on the first diff considering specialty tool requirements. That leads me to a few questions... 1. Which of the specialty...

The wallet could very well have been the problem, but not due to blood flow... anatomically speaking.

Interesting. The last thing I need to collect for WJ knuckles are the rotors. I also haven't heard about a clearance issue with the hubs and rotors. What year hubs? '00-'01? Keep us posted on the rotor you end up using.

I already have the rigidco rear sans carrier, but thanks.

The only pics I've seen of a dual swing arm carrier required a modified center section. Have you seen otherwise? I have the basic rear and would like to get the spare carrier sooner than later... mostly to avoid missing out in the event Terry decides to call it quits.

They offer both. The HP just costs more.

Thule makes an atlantis 2100 box that is 92x36x18". I suggest finding a distributor that can let you test fit your table before dropping $5-600 on a cargo box.