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Well i live in northern Fl... they don't care what you drive around here as long as the lights work and you don't speed... My tires stick way out, I have no CAT (did the cat delete the right way, no CEL) and my headlights have bright green LED halos... Hell you can even drive with your roof...

This insert... how does it work and what does it do? if the hole on the knuckle goes right through whats the needs for the insert? the only way i could see this being necessary is if the hole is tapered... and the inset reverses the taper... but that would involve drilling out the hole, correct...

Well i want to keep the upgraded tie rod... its pretty beefy.

I have disk brakes front and rear

I have one laying around collecting dust from my old rally car and i was wondering.... is there any reason to justify installing it on my rig? has anyone seen any uses of hydraulic hand brakes for offloading? maybe decent control? I can use it to lock the front end or rear end...

@MD21722, The es3095 part number is the stock inner tie rod which is not what i need as it is much smaller... the es3096 is LH... the es3096R is the RH version, which is what i need and it appears only rustys has this part... @Mark, as previously stated, the setup i have goes as fallows...

One more quick off the gun question... The outer tie rod end and drag link end go under the knuckle... Can i just flip the setup so the end joints go in from the top? like an OTK setup?

I'll prob wind up ordering it through rustys... Just wished it was readily available and under the lifetime warranty like every other part on my front end is.

Yes... The 3096 is the only one autozone carrys. They don't have a R or an L... They only have the one...

Hmm I may be calling rustys tomorrow.... The whole dang thing looks identical to this: http://www.rustysoffroad.com/rustys-tie-rod-hd-replacement-xj-tj-zj.html I wonder what they want for just the tie rod end... I don't suppose they're under a lifetime warranty like the rest of my front end. At...

On the 2848 and 2847 it seems like the ball joint shaft is 1/2" or bigger... I need it the size under 1/2" diameter... The factory sized diameter. The actual shank that goes into the tie rid bar needs to be 7/8" diameter

^hahaha I like this guy... I will post pics.... So basically as you know the outer tie rod attaches next to the wheel, it then is threaded into the tie rod bar (aka sleeve) which is not the oem one... Then the inner tie rid attaches to the drag link and is threaded into the the tie rid bar...

The 3096 is the factory zj tie rod for v8 models. It's plenty beefy. The stock other side is much smaller, that's not the one I need.

It's actually a ZJ but the entire front end is XJ based... I will post pics tomorrow

Look up on google "es3096 tie rod" as a picture reference... I need exactly that just with threads going the other direction

*3097 doesnt exist

Ok so I have a 98 with the HP30... Original owner put on some serious heavy duty tie rod bar... Well the end that goes to my drag link is shot from last weeks wheeling adventure. But it's not stock end. The previous owner thinks he could of sworn it was a chevy one ton end link, but every number...

Although that would make sense, I doubt that's the issue as the jeep is extremely modified and has a freshly rebuilt motor with a cam in it, axle swaps front and rear, 8" long arm lift with competition shocks, brand new 35s, lots of body armor and many many many more mods. I feel he wouldn't...

Unfortunately I don't have access to all that unless I buy the DIY leak kit or hàve a shop do it... I'm about to see if it held the freon over night.

Upstream o2 feeds a air/fuel ratio reading to the PCM. Here it is mapped on a scale with other variables to determine richness and leniency of the mixture prior to the cylinders firing... A crack in the manifold, as previously stated by Tim_MN, will let air travel in and the o2 will then see the...