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I put in some used RE 3.5 packs and they have settled to about 4 even on both sides. I greased up the bushings and tightened everything once on the ground. Whenever i have over 200 or 300 lbs in the back the jeep seems to ride much smoother and takes bumps much better. The shocks are not...
just used some paneling glue in a caulking tube....its been holding on for a couple months with no problems. Its more work to bolt it in then it is to just glue down every once in a while.
just get a new one or a junkyard shaft with less miles. Mine was worn out at 70k in the front. Once the splines are shot the driveshaft is as good as garbage. Junkyard and 50 bucks later no more vibes.
it all depends how much the cops like you in local towns... if you get pulled over and hes having a bad day you will get a ticket. Once again a 3.75 and 35s are going to give at least 5 inches of tire sticking out so it depends on the area. If there are a lot of other lifted trucks that get...
well when you drop your tcase you are dropping the back half of your engine and connecting components. Your tranny, tcase, and driveshafts are all dropping lower. I know the front driveshaft could bind if it is too low due to not enough slip. There could also be some clearance issues with...
get kumho mt's ive been running them for 10 k miles and no problems at all. Not bad in wet weather, great mud traction, great trail traction, and even in snow they seem to pull their own. Plus my 31x10.5x15 cost 85 bucks brand new so why even worry about a bfgay backorder.
they were ok but after a short time they seem to get harsher. Currently i have the RE superflex with full packs and even with a lower psi in my tires, i take a beating with these shocks. Id just spend another 100 bucks and get ome or 9000's.
maybe 1 hp or so. Its not really worth the install. If anything you will just get an annoying whistle that will make you take it out. Aluminum, steel... id imagine you could make one out of anything really. Just cut and bore and your done.
my friend has an axe on his YJ. He used it for camping but now its just a peice of intimidation whenever some punk decides to cut him off. And about the spare... i can relate. The roof is a pain, the back is expensive, inside takes up room, and under isnt possible in an XJ. Im thinking about...
i found one less than 10 mins away in bound brook, NJ. The guy turned out to be real nice, but my splines were worn out so looks like ill need to get another shaft instead. Oh well....
they are crap... the old style with the two pins works but its about as easy as taking a wrench out. Just go with a pair of JKS or the new RE discos. They may be 40 bucks more but my RE gen 2's take two seconds and they have a place to put the disco up and out of the way... no more getting...
jeep stock front dual cardan shaft... 30-31 inches in the middle of travel. Its the one that goes from a d30 to an auto. the manual is shorter by two inches and so is the 242 one.
pull the swaybar over and use a tube clamb (the metal ones with the regular screwdriver tighten bolt) to hold it from sliding back... i did this 2000 miles ago and no problems since.
anywhere from 130-500 depending on the type of kit and the quality. You could go the front driveshaft hack and tap route for around a 100 or you could buy the AA sye and a custom shaft from 500. I have the hack and tap and front shaft... it works and ive had no problems. It did take some...
cover your jeep in NRA stickers and keep empty casings all over the back. There is no way someone if going to steal from a person proudly showing his gun support. If that doesnt work you could always just lift the jeep up high enoug so no1 can see whats in it let alone get into it to steal stuff.
yeah.. i know of one in clifton called driveline incorporated but its 45-60 mins away from me and with traffic during the week it makes for an even longer commute. I was looking for something more central near me.