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So unfortunately I replaced the motor 50k miles back with a Jasper, which has worse gas mileage and low oil pressure. I regret it, as it was probably lifter tick or at worst a cracked piston skirt but as it was my only vehicle I panicked and spent the money on it. What I'm not clear on is what...
Just a quick double check. Recently gunned my 98 (233k miles) merging and had a horrible metal noise that required a tow later. In trying to replace a chewed up belt while waiting for the tow, noticed the harmonic balancer had drifted into the fan belt. Fortunately only that. But over the...
Yeah you've got to be careful, I went about 6 months a brake shop, a desert shop, and my own mechanic chasing down an improperly done drum job. First guys didn't install the adjuster right, which wound up causing semi-rubbing breaks turning into some smoking and serious shuddering 400 miles...
Generally happens when having driven a whole lot of miles at highway speed, say 50+. As I come to a stop, just in the last couple miles per hour (<5) there is a high pitch descending whine from mid to rear vehicle. Given how slow I'm going it's puzzling. It sounds like something doing 100-200...
The Crowns have been fine so far for me, as factory style with the giant triangle of rubber rather than the cyclinders of harshness. I think I have 5 years on them? Haven't looked at them lately to look for wear but everything sounds and rides right.
Good thread to check in on. I still have my original exhaust, which has has ubiquitous spot rust since forever. '98. I've worried about the need to replace the cat a couple of times over the last decade, but haven't yet. Am I right that the downstream O2 sensor would send a code if it was...
Original driver side seat belt is only retracting 80%. Would replace but of course no available parts. Is this something that could be safely fixed with lubrication disassembly or no? I don't want to mess with safety here but with parts (un)availability it's tricky.
Just to add a tidbit of information. If I had to guess, the change in resistor values was to be able to use IEC E series resistor values (standard). The previous values were pretty weird looking, while the new ones look very familiar to anyone familiar with electronics.
I had similar symptoms after redoing my battery cables. I would accelerate and the motor would drop out for a second. Or hit a bump a particular way and same. Or be in a banking turn. Turns out the wire to the alternator had been fraying against the motor mount and had worn away the...
Really really doubt it, there's no need. The cars will get replaced naturally as people that need a new vehicle all the time switch to electric. This isn't cars for clunkers, the contribution to emissions will become unimportant without any major effort to piss anyone off (over a 20 year...
None of us have anything to worry about with respect to being able to drive gasoline vehicles until we're dead. While manufacturers and laws will shift to electric vehicles, it's not feasible to ban existing gas cars in our lifetime. Most people buy new vehicles every year or 3. The gains on...
This isn't bad advice, I've had to do it once and about to do it again. But, this one is pretty easy to localize with the hood up. Also the solenoid ticks significantly slower than engine RPM.
No comment on this post, but I just want to post the cautionary tale that I only have a single daily driver XJ and had a similar tick, and went with a Jasper rebuilt motor. Tick is gone, but I have 25% less gas mileage and lower power as a result. I should have spent the time if I could have...
Pretty sure I noticed this a year ago too but did again after all things, having my earwax cleaned out (damn getting old sucks). But at 40+ mph, turning left I'm hearing a metal-on-metal squeal/grinding noise from what I think is driver front wheel. What should I check?