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I would not recommend Auburn car repair and off road for the reason that his turn around time is slow. :repair: He has had my 93 XJ in his shop for over a week and has not touched it. All I get is excuses on how he's backed up. But yet he failed to tell me that up front when made my appoinment...

My rig is a 93 Sport, 4.0L AW4 it is basically stock. During the summer I thought I had a Crank Position Sensor, CPS issue. My rig would occasionally die for no reason. So I replaced the CPS with a new unit and my rig ran fine up to mid December when it would not start. The engine turned over...

First I would not buy an enginer, transmission, transfer case, or axles off of e-bay because there is little to nothing you can do when you are ripped off. Also, e-bay does nothing to deter frauds and crooks for conducting business on e-bay, they figure if the buyer did not ask the right...

The reason paint was used back in the day was because machining processes used to deck a block and to mill heads were very crude compaired to today. Multi layered metal heads gaskets were also the norm. The machine marks left by the tooling was rough at about 125 micro-inches. The standard is...

A buddy of mine up the street from me has a 98 ex-police XJ. He loves it.

Don't for get there is also fuel bypassing in the rail and returning to the tank, so when that check valve opens and closes you will see a pulse like this.

But why would you want too? If the top end of the 93 is tires, so is the lower end. What condition are: the pistons, rings, timing gears/chain, crank bearings, rod bearings, camshaft, lifters, oil pump, water pump, in? Chances are these just as tired as everything else. Also you better...

You did not mention if you replaced the old rubber flex lines with new, extended brake lines? When the rubber olds get old and soft, they swell up and expand like balloons when you press down the pedel. Replacing these with some good quality one's makes a big differance. Also, check your front...

I recommend a Optima Red or Yellow top battery. I have been running them for years and they have never let me down. The yellow top in my 93 XJ is also six years old and a recent battery load test showed it was at 95% of a new battery. And I run lots of accessories and have a 8K electric winch...

First, the idle is controlled by the ECU. I don't know what this mechanic claimed to have done, but all he did was rip you off. All Xj's from 1991 on have a ECU the electronically controls the idle. I'm not sure about the earlier RENIX XJ's. If you have a rough idle, chances are there is...

I think you need to put a sticker on your rear bumper saying, "Toyota and Chevy recovery vehicle" after all the trucks you yanked out of the sand.

You guys are missing the point. if the leak gets worse, you just up the size of the cans and it beats using a bucket

I don't know what line of BS this mechanic is feeding you but it's just that, BS. There is no oiling flaw in the 8.25. Any rear axle you change the pinion angle in because of lifting could affect oiling. It's not a flaw it physics. When you tilt the rear end to align the yoke with the drive...

You can use a dremal tool and remove the excess material on the t-stat housing where it makes the sharp 90 deg bend on the inside radius. A lot of guys have done this to improve the flow path of the collant exiting the t-stat. But dont over do it or you could remove too much material and make...

Did you get the correct seals? I replaced mine over the summer and the seals the local parts store tried to sell me were for a 8.25 but for 29 spline axles. So the actual rubber seal would not seal to my 27 spline axles. And Vise versa. Seals for a 27 spline axle will leak in 29 axles because...

Dont do it. Almost everyone I know who has installed one of these has had nothing but problmes with them. Myself included. The thing broke after 3 months and Richmond Gear would not honor the warranty for something they addmitted was their fault.

If you want the best use Amsoil. But if you are doing a Lincoln locker, welded spiders, you are not gaining anything by using synthetic since the main moving parts of the diff are welded. Just use a good quality conventional 75w-90.

Go out and buy a Chilton manual. There is a good electrical sectiion wire wire diagrams

Dont forget to also do a compression leak down test to ensure that the valve train is working properly. Worn valves and valve springs can also cause your engine to sputter and run crappy.

I would stay away from anything GMB makes. It all cheap Chinese crap. Buy OEM or aftermarket from the USA. Unfortunately most autopart stores use distributors and whole sellers that buy their parts from off shore manufactires to control cost. Good for consumers you may think. But not really once...