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Also, check for a vacuum leak along the manifold - that is a long sealing surface, and the iron/aluminum flanges spell trouble for the screws that hold both of them (aluminum expands twice as much as iron/steel, for a given temperature...)

McMaster or MSC Direct if you have time, Fastenal if you don't. Anything Chinese can be considered counterfeit hardware, as I've stated many times before (I've given the buyer for OSH a royal earful over hardware origin before - because of /their/ Chinese crap. They're stocking Crown now...

Got an Android with Bluetooth? Get a Bluetooth ELM327 ($5-10) and buy the full version of Torque ($5,) and you'll be able to do more with that than you can with most hobbyist-available code readers...

^^^ This.

I've expounded on this some time ago, but installing an overlarge exhaust can actually cause enough turbulence to be as restrictive as installing an exhaust that is too small. I recall doing the numbers on this, and the 4.0L engine works just fine with 2.25-2.5" ID exhaust (it actually worked...

Sounds like you've no thermostat - the function of the device is twofold: 1) To arrest coolant flow until the engine reaches operating temperature, then open. 2) To restrict coolant flow so that the coolant flowing through the radiator has time to reject heat to the surrounding air. If you have...

Not dead. Been dead a couple of times now, and this doesn't feel like dead. Didn't get that walk yet, but I have lost 40# - I'm only 15# off target now...

Thank you both. I do hope to begin contributing again - soon. But, now is not the time, I'm not quite "there" yet (if take my meaning.) For those of you who are members of other boards who have members wondering where the Hell I've been, point them here. I honestly don't want to explain it...

... have been greatly exaggerated. However, the stories of my homelessness, et alia, are true. That's 2-1/3 years I don't care to repeat (I didn't want to repeat being homeless in the first place - my second trip through it, fortunately for my wife. And, we managed to get a 40-year-old...

I've always used just a smear - but, I think it's more important to make sure the mating surfaces are CLEAN. Why did I use RTV? Made it easier to keep the o-rings in place in the flat grooves (I used a smear of grease on the one on the through screw, just so the ring wouldn't chafe or scuff...

What is good for the goose is good for the gander. The IRS can go after you over a receipt that's 15 years old - you expect me to believe they can't recover emails from an internal server, or anything like that?

Generally, you want to "match-mark" any rotating parts to make sure they stay in balance (such as removing a flexplate or flywheel, or unbolting a torque converter from a flexplate or a clutch from a flywheel.) Theoretically, this isn't necessary anymore, it's more of an "old mechanic's thing"...

Unless you're having trouble with the thing shifting, I wouldn't go heavily into an overhaul "just because it's out." Overhauls on the AW4 can be quirky - it's a mechanically simple box, but it can trap the neophyte. However, a "reseal" kit, done with caution and attention to detail, shouldn't...

FYI - anything from 1984-1996 will fit. Good luck!

Bugger. At least the NTKs are still made in Japan, right? Damn. Bosch parts were always so good... (Kinda like Norinco firearms - I wouldn't take money to take one off of somebody's hands, made past 1975. Why? Because that's when the Russians left the Norinco factory to the Chinese. The...

Really? I've been using them for years without incident. What trouble have you had?

From what I've been able to gather, it seems to most often crack right under the oil fill cap. Coincidentally, this is also where the TUPY foundry mark is usually found - so you're probably going to see one or the other. The TUPY (revised) head is a direct bolt-in swap for the early #0331...

Ah - but you know and admit you are a noob - which really makes you an FNG, not a noob (and definitely not an FNK. FNKs usually can't be trained.) And knowing is half the battle, no? ;) Just as an FYI, there was no production aluminum head for the 6-242 engine (or for the AMC six in...

Concur. I prefer to use cork gaskets and no RTV, makes it easier to clean things up later. If you want to simplify the job a bit (eliminate wrestling,) you can use about a half-dozen strategically-placed M6-1.0x25m/m studs and flanged nuts to keep everything in place while you get the screws...

I prefer Bosch for OEMR on American or European, NTK for Japanese/Asian (Bosch invented the thing, and they're OEM for about 3/5 of the marketplace, I think.) I want to recall that ACDelco is reboxed Bosch, but I can't swear to it. Wideband? Get a kit from someone like Innovate Motorsports or...