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Thats the one!! ( I couldnt figure out how to post it !!!) Thanks!

ok guys I found a cut away pic of the valves on the back of the compressor..Just to lay this to rest, they are NOT LH threaded... it is just as Stephanspann said above.. If you run the valves all the way out(LH) then that allows full system flow, and service ports are capped. If you run...

I was referring to the diameter of the center part of the axles..I have seen axles that are actually smaller in the middle than on the spline end, and I realize they are meant to wrap up to a certain extent. But the axles from the Lincolns are huge at 1.454". Even though they are still 28...

I have all the stuff, but I still may go Wilwood anyhow. That old Ford crap is so heavy. I bought it for the size of the axles and the fact that the big bearing housings use those huge tapered roller bearings in em.:shocked:

Sweet!!!! Thanks! btw you know what else I noticed... just for fun, they seem to be LH threaded ! HA! Someone over there really has a sense of humor... Turn the valve rh= out!!!

the mustangs either came with 7.5 s or an 8.8, neither can be mistaken for a 9" unless he had a custom one built for it. I believe the Mustangs still came with 7.5s up until 85 An 8.8 when viewed from the rear had a squarish looking rear end cover, a 7.5 had a cover with 2 flat and 2 roundsd...

Ok, now I'm confused again. so in addition to shutting off the old r12 ports, these valves can also be used to "cap off" the rest of the system from the compressor?? Then my next question is...which way is open?? I have them full left which in my system seemed to cut off the r12 service ports...

Ah I see. That could be the issue, The threads on the conversion port looked real short and they were up in this recess. The good news is I should be able to keep those things shut and just hook up to the hoses like normal. I was kinda concerned they had something to do with flow in the...

woops sorry, I converted to 134. so youre saying they only open the connections where you hook the hoses. They don't have anything to do with flow do they? Reason I ask is when I open the top one, I get the 134 pissing out. when I open the bottom one, nothing happens..I have 134 service ports...

Hi Guys, I searched, but was swamped with unrelated questions.. real quick, on the back of the compressor of my 92, there are 2 valves that lead to the high and low lines, are they for flow, or just to shut off the schraeder ports??

I got one from a 77 Lincoln with discs that measured 64.75 wms to wms. I do have to cut it down, but it has the mondo huge 28 spline axles and I have sent them to Moser before and was able to have them cut,respline and redrill the bolt flange for under $200. Then shorten the housing accordingly...

man take your time and check everything. I hada crazy wobble in the front of mine.. and I am still finding stuff wrong that I have never seen on other vehicles before. The funny part is the BJs and steering linkage are tight..but it seems like anything else that could be bad, is! Here's my...

I am in the process of making my own also, but havent cut it yet.. I have the dxfs done though to cut on the wj... Can you post some pics?? If yours is nicer I'll go that way!!! Thx

Thanks, mine was correct, you won me a beer on that one!:peace:

HI guys, I did a search, but all the pics are no longer there. I have a 92 4.0 auto w air, and I'm looking for a serp belt diagram or sketch. Reason is, I have a buddy with the same exact year/engine, and his belt is routed totally different than mine... Someone 's got it wrong.. Thanks

I'm pretty sure I got a half inch either direction on my slotted bracket. The valv seems right because I had 9 degrees to start and about 14 after it was pinned all the way. Ill have to measure after I get home. Thanks for posting that info!

I put a pair of the brown dog poly mounts in my 91 when I put my 4.6 in and I hate them. They make every little thing in the interior buzz and rattle, plus I had to take a hack saw to them right out of the box so the damn thing would fit inside the stock block bracket. :nono: Just my...

Ah shoot, I figured that would be too easy! I'm almost tempted to get the entire door and be done with it, then I'd have to splice in the newer switches and all, but they look way better anyhow!

jeez Talyn, you are a hardhead. Maybe youre right, I'll tell al the guys I race with we shouldn't be reading plugs..just because that's your way, doesn't mean it's the only way. And I most certainly do have proof..the plugs! I'm not going to go into my whole rationale for using the 30s, I...

im in too!! Mine are useless and leak like a seive! I would think the track and all would bolt in if the door shell is the same , anyone have access to that info?