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i thought the MJ was about 10" longer wheelbase?

the 14" travel in the rear pretty much means you have to run them up into the vehicle through the floor. search for "shocks through floor" and you'll find my thread and some others. I had about 5" of lift at the time.

never got around to installing some in the front... the XJ is dead now and I've taken a different direction with the MJ. My guess is that for a jeep that's fully loaded they would be great at that valving. I just never went on any outings with much more than a spare tire and some tools in the...

dont forget the MJ!!!

I had the 275/78 valving in the rear of my XJ and IMO it was just a little on the heavy side. Soft MJ springs and 14" travel was pretty sweet though. BTW< i have my old 14" 7100s for sale right now...

herculiner

I feel stupid... either i forgot to torque down the rear bearing cap when i did the rear main a few weeks ago, or it was not torqued straight... and shifted. The bolts were finger tight and my guess is that the crank was bending every time the rear two cylinders fired... creating a vibration...

what about PS fluid cooler?

Ahhh, i see. I thought those pics were of the blue MJ.

I did this on my XJ and used 14" travel 7100's. The MJ springs maxed out these shocks... could've used 16" with some straps for sure.

I wouldn't put this into the intermittent category. The jeep does this all the time, but just while under load. This leads me to think that the rear main bearing is shot as the crank flexes under load to place more stress on the bearing and would be supported by the other main bearings while...

I'm gonna pull the pan tomorrow and take a peek under the caps.

not on an xj frame

Yep, tried that. The issue remains in the 5/6 area. I also swapped ECU with no result. I also tried swapping injector wires between 5 and 6 and it seemed to make no difference with the noise...the motor ran just fine but had a little more vibration. Am I wrong to expect to see some...

So I had started a thread several weeks ago about what I thought was a misfire I was trying to diagnose... I've just about done everything I can think of to fix this and NOTHING has indicated anything is wrong other than the direct symptoms of a misfire-type feel/noise when blip the throttle...

i pulled one out of my '88 no problem. I used the harbor freight removal tool kit with the guy who came to get the windshield and we tag-teamed it and got it out in one piece. It's basically a piano wire with handles. It wasn't easy, but we managed and luck helped out.

what were the symptoms of the cracked flex plate and how did you know to look there?

What kind of play in the shaft is considered bad? The one on my MJ lets you rotate the rotor a few degrees either way after it's installed. Is this OK? Or are we talking side-to-side movement? It also seemed rather sloppy where it engages the oil pump... like the tab didn't fit in the hole...

I just replaced the FPR and this didn't fix it. I also just tested the sync dizzy and got that the voltage between the pins varied from 6.4 to 2 (hi-lo-hi-lo-etc.) as i rotated the crank. This is normal? I'm going to start testing the harness to the ECU for each sensor next.

Just cleaned out all the injector plugs and inspected them for damage. They looked like new. I also swapped out the ECU for a stock one and it ran the same... no fix. What else is there? intake temp sensor, coolant temp sensor?