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Even so, let's say he trashed every sensor it has it would still prime when the key is turned to on. Also you can assume the CPS is good (or functioning to a certain degree) since it runs with fluid, which indicates spark. I'd say you found your problem-fuel pump or the circuit to it. Did you...

107mph according to GPS. Speedo was pegged. Didn't feel that bad, but I would only be comfortable on a straightaway doing it. It is a stock suspension with factory sized tires tho.

Mine too. But: Corrosion.

Pressure drops with lower engine RPM, not the other way around. Exactly what my sender did is what yours is doing. Eventually it just pegged out constantly-though occasionally if I hit the sender with a hammer, it would read okay for a few minutes.

You can totally skip the ballast resistor actually, jump the two terminals together. Also, pull the dist cap and have a look see. CPS (Crank position sensor, located on transmission bellhousing roughly at 11o clock position) can also fail in a variety of ways-I would replace it just as a...

Two volts is not enough to run a fuel injector. Theoretically, you could short out the injector drivers by shorting the two together-possibly with water.

I was really bored and wanted to see if somebody would actually take it seriously. Yeah it was a joke. Everybodys fine. It would be an excellent anti-theft feature though..

Is it normal for the radio to catch fire when you turn it on? The manual doesn't mention it.

Put the carpet+insulation back in.

I have 217k on the original tranny+tq converter (engine too for that matter) and its silent?? How's that for life expectancy. It's not the harmonic balancer making that noise is it? Also, fairly certain its not crank noise?

Opening the bleeder would be the best solution-but if the bleeders haven't be opened in a year or more, you run the risk of breaking them off. And yes, the master cylinder cap should have been open (or a bleeder) so that the pressure has somewhere to escape to. Congrads. Save the reciept for...

Very easy. You will need to compress the piston in when your done so the pads will fit over the rotor.

Old pads may not bed into the new rotor properly. Plus, it's what an extra $22? I'd go for that. Don't forget to lube the caliper bolts and sliders when your done!

3. Oil pressure sending unit, threads into oil pressure filter adaptor (right behind the filter, one prong connector, pulls off) 4. It has an ECM, though sensor data is only obtainable by a voltmeter or a scantool. Doesn't have conventional codes-and no there is no check engine light. Not...

My rear drum noise had me convinced there was an issue with the fronts. Edit: My point is that the body is fantastic about transferring noise.

Cancelling cam inside the steering column. Relatively easy. Loose tilt would also be the assembly bolts-common on the 80's 90s GM columns. You can find a guide for that somewhere, but it's very tedious. I would either live with that until it got too dangerous, or get another column.

Corroded sockets are very common on these. I've replaced both front turn signal sockets-$7 at Pepboys. Same symptoms as yours. Problem could also be a bad bulb or loss of ground.

Get a test light for the blower motor-sounds like its not working at all. A 12v bulb would be fine. I assume you checked the fuses underneath the dash by the footwell? You need to fix the fan then charge the A/C.

Alt bearings did this to me recently. You can verify by pulling the belt and running it briefly. Second thought: It does it in all gears except reverse?!

For that matter, you could disconnect the actuator rod from the ignition switch and manually start it from there. That still doesn't solve the steering wheel lock or shifter lock though.