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My Dana 44 only has a roll pin, no bolt. Check inside the hole for the pin.

Get the whole setup at a local pick-a-part or u-pull salvage yard. Should be under $20. All years of xj, zj and tj up to 2003 should fit. Some of the zj v8 steering stuff is much heavier duty. Make sure to get it off a newer jeep so the chances of good joints are better.

IF you have the original switch....the blue wire from the battery goes to 1A(these are stamped at the back of the switch), the blue wire from the relay goes to 2A, and the black ground wire goes to 4B.

That's an e-Torx head. Get a size 6 e-torx socket at any tool store. I had to buy a whole set just to get that odd-ball size. Good thing it was only $12 for the set.

For the Dana 30, the Eaton Elocker requires different carrier side bearings than what you would find in a diff rebuild kit. Last I checked, they are not included with your purchase of the Elocker.

Re: Greg Smith Power door locks writeup Great mod...locks work like brand new!

I used a Speedy Sleeve on my Dana 44, and it lasted about 2 1/2 months before it started to ' weep '. I'm not too sure what the problem was because the sleeve was tight around the shaft. Perhaps the axle and the sleeve expand and contract at different rates, allowing oil to pass when the shaft...

In, thanks.

In. Nice stuff.

You won't find a better off/on road mud tire than the KM2 IMO. For ON-ROAD SNOW performance, just like the original KMs, it's non-existent. All mud terrains suck for on road snow conditions. Good news is you can get them siped

From the Dana Spicer manual: 35 to 50 ft/lbs.

I can answer the dents for you. The dents are only found on earlier xj's. The one by the manifold is to clear the universal joint on the front drive shaft, if you have 4wd. The dent by the cat is to clear the cross member.

Yeah, I know that space. No seal needed in there. It needs to stay open for diff lube to reach the wheel bearings.

You bet. The easiest way to tell what axle you have is to take of the brake drum and look for an axle retaining plate. If you got one of these, you have a non c-clip.

My d35 c-clip also has the c stamping. It has nothing to do with with being c-clip or not.

My parts vehicle has a build date on the driver's door of November 1989, and IS a c-clip axle. Your right on the borderline, you may have to crack the cover and look.

Did you torque the leaf spring bolts down while it was jacked up in the air? Maybe loosen the leaf and shackle bolts while its sitting on the ground and bounce up and down on it a couple of times. Then retorque everything to spec.

Those are 33" BFGs, and the flares are in the stock position, so I'm guessing 8 inches of lift.

Just wanted to add to check for cracks in the frame rail around the steering box. Looks like alot more than 5.5" lift. I'm at 6.5 and my tie rod doesn't come above my axle tube like that.

With someone in the car turning the steering back and forth(eighth of a turn each way), get under with a light and watch the sector shaft for side to side movement.