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Probably easier and less time consuming to put a/m or used fenders on the front. They can be found pretty cheap. Then the amount of holes u need to weld and finish will be cut in half.

Hopefully just fine metal dust that landed on the paint that got wet. One of the big reasons new cars are covered in transport now. "rail dust" from the train tracks used to do this all the time. A clay bar product may work but if not, buffing with a medium coumpound followed by a swirl...

I wonder if the can up on the roof rack is for brake fluid ?

Sorry, usually don't read all the tag line stuff. did not mean to offend. Just couldn't believe someone would not know what that was...

Try pointing the camera away from the Hedgehog...

"Mann...I told ya we should a rechecked them bolts after puttin on that lift kit..."

WOW... I guess being patriotic isn't one of your most outstanding qualities...

Be careful with the rubber wheel... Works great on factory paint, but on some softer types (laquers, enamels) it can eat into the finish. More so if it's fresh paint.

If this is an older model with the GM style column, I have seen them in the "HELP" rack at NAPA/Auto Zone/Carquest...etc. They can get pretty brittle over time. Bet you'll have better luck with a new one...

I had this happen to me before. I figured I would take a hammer and a small punch and try to spin it out by tapping on the flutes. Turned out after a taps with the hammer, it shattered into pieces and I was able to pull the remaining pieces out with a pick and a magnet...

I purchased an 2001 Hundai Accent the other day (I know, I know, but it was cheap...). Drove it home approx. 35 miles, ran great, no problems at all. Parked it at the shop, went to start it 2 days later, and noticed what sounds like lifter noise. I let it run a little to warm up figureing maybe...

Your fuel pump will cycle when you 1st turn the key on. It will not run again until the oil pressure switch senses that the motor has oil pressure (safety feature that keeps the fuel pump from running nonstop in case of a major leak, rollover, etc...). I would check battery and cables 1st, and...

Check to make sure battery cables are tight/clean (good connections). try jump starting it and pay attention to were the volt gauge is. A fully charged battery should read 12.5 volts, and a good working alternator should read approx 14 volts while running...

Easier to see what's going on now...LOL,with the fuel smell from the exhaust,try holding the throttle wide open to clear a flooded condition.if this doesn't seem to help, next step would be to determine if it is a fuel or a spark issue. Check to see if you have spark at the plugs, and pressure...

Please explain what the term "turning over " means to you. Cleaning cables, jumping, bypassing the starter relay, would be things to try if the starter wasn't "turning over" or "cranking". A gas smell should only occur if the engine was "turning over"...

Not sure what year your's is, but on my 97 I was told there was a recall on this. Seems they had corrosion problems with the module that was mounted under the drivers seat. The recall involved moving the module to the center console

To get new fabric to adhere to the headliner, the trick is to remove ALL the old foam first. This it what actually breaks down. That's why trying to reglue the old material never works. Your just glueing dry rotted foam to dry rotted foam. A fine wire brush works good to scrape the headliner...

I think I would contact Rustys and explain the problem. Who knows, maybe he'll do something about it... Or at least check on his welding procedures so that no one else has this happen...

Pretty sure I got the name right, but could be wrong though. What it does is filter out the signal from the radios internal amp converting it back the signal you would get from the pre amp outputs.