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Look for a Grand Cherokee intake hat, it's very trim. It may fit under your hood. I think the Dakota runs a similar piece. My TJ:

Orly? Glad I could make you laugh. :rolleyes:

You just have to drive it moderately for a bit then let cool a couple times, this hardens the teeth face, essentially like heat treating it.

I would just drive 30, let it cool, and the drive home. Check it a couple times during the drive though, feel the top of the diff, don't let it too hot to touch by hand.

Correction to the above: I made a mount out of 3/8 for the passenger, and reused for the driver's side.

I made some out of 3/8 plate for the driver's, and cut off the stock mount and reused it for the passenger, welded them to the inside of the coil buckets I made.

Re: Installed Currie Joints - Update Rokmen and Tomken both use Currie joints for this reason. For a flex joint, there's nothing better than the Currie piece, and there's no need to reinvent the wheel. Well, except for price, and look what happens here. :laugh:

You sure? WJ ball joints are 2" per foot and XJ lowers are 1.5" per foot. They will work for a while, probably for a long time, but they do not fit "perfect".

Yes, they are Johnny Joints. They have urethane cups with a fairly soft durometer in comparison, not "hard" plastic/delrin cups like RE and Ballistic use. Very good road manners. Even so, I doubt you would feel any difference between rubber, joints, or heims with good shocks and control arm angle.

A poor knockoff of a Currie joint? Yeah, that's the way to go.... :D

Just use Currie joints. They ride great. With good springs, shocks, and CA angle I doubt you'll feel any road vibration anyway. Given that, I especially wouldn't do rubber on a single 3rd link. It's just to much pressure and rubber wouldn't last. Currie joints, FTW.

Your shafts will work with all years of hub bearings. I doubt you'll notice it unless you hit large speed bumps. It's still a bit of fab work to get the trackbar in correct alignment and getting the knuckles flipped. The other option is to get the Vanco brakes, since they are bolt on, and...

No, but it almost scrapes paint. :D I had to straighten the pitman arm to make the room. I can't take all the credit, someone smarter than me did this years ago. I was able to go out on front of the coil with the trackbar because I moved the coil bucket back. Got me a 2 inch stretch...

ALthough these answers are all over the internet and this site I'll chime in. :eeks1: 1) You will want to use 00-01 TJ/XJ hub bearings. I used Timken HA597449 with redrilled WJ rotors with no additional spacers for the caliper. 2) If you use the upper drag link mount on the WJ knuckle, you...

The rear brakes are the same between the Liberty and 03 and up TJ. The hole is larger and doesn;t need to be modified like the ZJ backing plates do. edit: And the caliper is the same between all three.

The greasable bolts are really the only way to get any grease inside the joint without taking it apart. The urethane cups are so tight that the joints that have the outer barrell zerk rarely take any grease. Just assemble the joint with some quality Moly grease. You'll likely not ever have to...

Don't forget to replace the plenum gasket (trim the tits off the bolts, too) and replace the water pump bypass hose while the front alt/ac mount off.

It is so. I know of several that have been through a lot of abuse. The trick is to get Factory Ford stuff. If a set lasted only one race, it was a shlt foreign one.

Just because you can buy conversion parts doesn't mean it's cheaper. :D You're forgetting you need a $500 adapter if you go with a Jeep transfer case. Your 231/242, D300, or Atlas will bolt right up to the NV3500, 44RE, and 46RE.

Money back on what? You bought probably the lowest cost kit on the market and now complain it doesn't last? Just buy some Currie joints. Their more betterest. :)