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A 32 tooth gear is available. Part # is 52067632. I know it exists because I am looking at one sitting on my desk. It's black in color, and has the number 32 stamped in the plastic.
On my 99 XJ with 3.55 gears and 31x10.5 BFG A/Ts the speedo was almost perfect (within 2%).
Since you're in Canada that's about $500/inch :us: just kidding!
The shop is covering their asses...and they want to make more money.
I suggest you install the 3" kit yourself, or find somone to do it on the side. It's very easy. Stock LCAs are fine with 3" of lift. All you need is the...
I don't think it's supposed to go back on. It's there to hold the shaft/bearing in line with each other. Your new yoke is secured to the inner race of the bearing, so everything should be fine.
It's the shocks limiting the droop.
Throw away the rear swaybar. My 99 XJ with Up Country came from the factory without a rear sway bar. It does very little, if anything.
No issues at all. I did have a slight "torque steer" feel at first. The vehicle would pull slightly left on acceleration, and slightly right on braking. I found the toe was toed out a bit. I set the toe so it was toed in a bit and everything has been fine since.
I've had it on my XJ for close to a year now. Definitely made the front end feel tighter on rough pavement. I had it installed at their facility, so there was no problems with installation. :laugh3:
I have no complaints.
I have this on my XJ:
http://www.jcroffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=1TNST&Category_Code=S6
The drag link is 22.5" long and the TIe rod is 41" long. The drag link ends are threaded almost all the way in, so 22" should work better, and the tie rod ends have about 1...
There's a huge difference when you're talking about 1996 and newer NP242s. The RE H&T I installed had me cut the output shaft, leaving 1" of splines, threading the end of the shaft, and bolting on a flange. So I ended up with a flange hanging off the end of the shaft. It was fine for about a...
I run 285/75/16 MT/Rs on my XJ with rubicon wheels. They measure 33.1"x11.3". 295/75/16 will be about 1/2" taller and 1/2" wider...more like a 34x12 tire.
Since you asked about the hack and tap, and I just typed up a response in another thread on this topic, I'll repost it here:
It's a poor design. More a band aid than a fix. Look at any other SYE on the market and you will see that the rear output flange, when tightened down, is sandwiched...
:lecture: It's a poor design. More a band aid than a fix. Look at any other SYE on the market and you will see that the rear output flange, when tightened down, is sandwiched between the output shaft inner bearing race and the front of the flange. There's a reason for this- splines are not...
It would help to know what year your vehicle is.
1995 and older- should be fine with only 2 inches of lift.
1996 and newer- probably fine with only 2 inches of lift, but slight chance of vibes. SYE would be overkill. A 1/2" transfer case drop would be sufficent. When you get over 3" of lift...
My XJ steering used to suck. At highway speeds, over washboard roads (most of Metro Detroit) the steering was always flopping around. Adding the RE drop brackets was awesome, and eliminated 90%. But that last 10% was always buggin me. So I went and had this installed:
All my steering woes...
I have installed 2" spacers over the factory coils, installed 3" lift coils, installed the 2" spacer over the 3" lift coils, and most recently installed 4.5" lift springs (actually provide 5 1/2" of lift) in my XJ and I've never used spring compressors.
My technique: Jack up the vehicle as...
Rusty's 4.5" coils gave me 5.25" of lift on my 99 XJ. They are soft springs=smooth ride and lots of flex. Plus they were on sale for ~$80 a couple years back. I'm happy.
I had the MORE rubber mounts in my XJ for 5 minutes. At idle the vibes were unbearable. I would suggest using factory mounts, and replace the trans mount at the same time. A bad trans mount will wipe out engine mounts much quicker.