- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
I sure hope you're looking at putting better axles in because if you can run 37s on a dana 30 in the northeast you don't need 37s.
Depends on what I decide to do. I could put a set of RCV shafts and their warranty to the test in in a trussed d30 and c8.25 or look for a dana 44 front out of a TJ Rubicon and a dana 44 rear out of a Cherokee or do the Ford 8.8 swap in the rear. Or I could wait until I break the Yukon chromoly shafts that I'm throwing in the dana 30 along with a TruTrac diff (which is what I'm going to run with my 32s).I sure hope you're looking at putting better axles in because if you can run 37s on a dana 30 in the northeast you don't need 37s.
Alright, 37s on a d30 with RCVs, now your carrier and R&P are the fuse instead of the shafts.
44 is going to be around the same, but won't break quite as fast with 37s on it.
Again, if you need 37s in the northeast, you are going to explode a 30 fast, or a 44 pretty quickly. I know people who have made entire statues out of broken dana 44 parts after wheeling on 35s and 37s. And they didn't have a supercharger.
IMO, I wouldn't build anything that won't clear 17s. The law of diminishing returns will kick in with any rotor larger than 13".For a race jeep 17 and 18 rims probably have plenty of tires and for wheeling 17" is getting to the poiint were it has the best selection of tires and rims.
Talk to cal about d44s and 37"s. He loves them
Alright, 37s on a d30 with RCVs, now your carrier and R&P are the fuse instead of the shafts.
44 is going to be around the same, but won't break quite as fast with 37s on it.
Again, if you need 37s in the northeast, you are going to explode a 30 fast, or a 44 pretty quickly. I know people who have made entire statues out of broken dana 44 parts after wheeling on 35s and 37s. And they didn't have a supercharger.
Talk to cal about d44s and 37"s. He loves them
Fine then. d60 front and shaved 14 bolt rear. I HIGHLY doubt I'd ever break those.
I've also read threads where people have made the d30 survive under 35s doing some pretty extreme wheeling. It's all about wheeling style and knowing when not to "hammer down".
I'm also not going to be running lockers. Just helical LSDs front and rear. I'm hoping that will mean less stress on the axles, but idk. If it breaks, oh well. I can always fix it. There's a reason people carry spare shafts on the trail.
Fine then. d60 front and shaved 14 bolt rear. I HIGHLY doubt I'd ever break those.
I've also read threads where people have made the d30 survive under 35s doing some pretty extreme wheeling. It's all about wheeling style and knowing when not to "hammer down".
I'm also not going to be running lockers. Just helical LSDs front and rear. I'm hoping that will mean less stress on the axles, but idk. If it breaks, oh well. I can always fix it. There's a reason people carry spare shafts on the trail.
IMO, I wouldn't build anything that won't clear 17s. The law of diminishing returns will kick in with any rotor larger than 13".
Learn to read a whole post before you bandwagon please. Your terrain is very, very different from ours.
I carry spare shafts... and balljoints, after my first fun time breaking a shaft and having it rip my balljoints out within a fraction of a second.
60/14 is going to be basically bulletproof on 37s if built right, but then you run into ground clearance issues and now you're on 40s like most of the people I know with one tons. Still pretty close to bulletproof if built right.
Also, sometimes hammering down is basically the only way something is happening. You aren't gonna crawl a steep rocky hill with mud and water and leaves and moss everywhere. Dry ground? Sure, it'll be fun. When shit gets wet in the northeast (or northwest for that matter) you quickly run out of ways to finesse things.
(the other benefit of 60/14 swapping is you get those massive brakes from the factory.)