Crfrider
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Long island new york
free t case shaving??? lol gl with build
-
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Joel's multipurpose XJ build (rocks/boulevard)
- Thread starter frijolee
- Start date
frijolee
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Big Island, HI
Bought all my stuff and found a pretty good resource.
http://stores.ebay.com/powertrain-parts-plus?_trksid=p2047675.l2563
-Wide chain with both cogs - $89
-6 pinion - $89 (drops to $79 if you order both this and the wide chain kit)
-Oil pump - $23
-He also threw in the pickup and filter I needed at no charge.
-Free shipping on everything.
I'd sent him some questions earlier, did more research, and then bought without waiting for the reply. I was impressed that the seller (Duke) actually called me to chat through what I needed and apologized for not getting back faster on my questions. I think that was the first time in a couple hundred ebay transactions that I've had a call from a seller. Stellar customer service.
He gave me his contact info direct as if you're picking up a variety of stuff he can work a better deal outside of ebay than within. I'll definitely be keeping the info. [email protected]
Rebuild kits were a little harder to know what's what but I went ahead and grabbed one where they at least published who made their bearings (Koyo and Nachi).
http://stores.ebay.com/powertrain-parts-plus?_trksid=p2047675.l2563
-Wide chain with both cogs - $89
-6 pinion - $89 (drops to $79 if you order both this and the wide chain kit)
-Oil pump - $23
-He also threw in the pickup and filter I needed at no charge.
-Free shipping on everything.
I'd sent him some questions earlier, did more research, and then bought without waiting for the reply. I was impressed that the seller (Duke) actually called me to chat through what I needed and apologized for not getting back faster on my questions. I think that was the first time in a couple hundred ebay transactions that I've had a call from a seller. Stellar customer service.
He gave me his contact info direct as if you're picking up a variety of stuff he can work a better deal outside of ebay than within. I'll definitely be keeping the info. [email protected]
Rebuild kits were a little harder to know what's what but I went ahead and grabbed one where they at least published who made their bearings (Koyo and Nachi).
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frijolee
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Big Island, HI
A few update shots…
Torn down transfer case before cleaning:
Note: that blind pilot bearing in the rear cover is a real pisser to get out. My pilot bearing puller’s teeth were too fat to get behind it and my slide hammer just tore up the edges but wouldn’t move it. I finally said screw it, drilled a hole and punched it out from the backside. I was planned to weld the hole back up but it’s probably a moot point (which you’ll see in a second).
That worked fine for this one, but there’s another blind pilot bearing buried in the input shaft too. Anyone have a lead on a general tool that works? I try to avoid factory tools if I can help it since they tend to be one trick ponies.
Inside cleaned up nice after some simple green, scrubbing, and a pressure wash.
Unfortunately, it turns out I’d worn the chain into the surface after all.
Best guess was that this was 2/3rds the wall thickness in this spot. I decided not to risk it and threw down for a used rear cover from my new friend Duke. That’s one less thing to weld assuming the bearings look good. Ebay price $39, direct dealing $35.
Everything’s in route to me now so I should have this back together soon.
Torn down transfer case before cleaning:
Note: that blind pilot bearing in the rear cover is a real pisser to get out. My pilot bearing puller’s teeth were too fat to get behind it and my slide hammer just tore up the edges but wouldn’t move it. I finally said screw it, drilled a hole and punched it out from the backside. I was planned to weld the hole back up but it’s probably a moot point (which you’ll see in a second).
That worked fine for this one, but there’s another blind pilot bearing buried in the input shaft too. Anyone have a lead on a general tool that works? I try to avoid factory tools if I can help it since they tend to be one trick ponies.
Inside cleaned up nice after some simple green, scrubbing, and a pressure wash.
Unfortunately, it turns out I’d worn the chain into the surface after all.
Best guess was that this was 2/3rds the wall thickness in this spot. I decided not to risk it and threw down for a used rear cover from my new friend Duke. That’s one less thing to weld assuming the bearings look good. Ebay price $39, direct dealing $35.
Everything’s in route to me now so I should have this back together soon.
- Location
- San Diego
I wouldn't have worried about that case wear at all.
frijolee
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Big Island, HI
You sure about that? Minimum thickness was just about breaking through. Certainly less than 0.030". Given a replacement cover was only $35, swapping it out seemed like cheap insurance to me.
frijolee
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Big Island, HI
Well I'll be damned. Just found not one but two ways to pull out those blind bearings.
Option 1) Cut off most of a flange head and use it hook the inside edge, wedge the shaft sideways in the hole so it won't slip. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/pilot-bearings-101-a-513039/
Option 2) Pack it with grease then shove a tight fitting dowel down in there and hammer away using the hydraulic pressure to drive out the pilot in the opposite direction.
Loving option 2 and can do option 1 on the input shaft (bearing is capped). Pictures of the process coming soon!
Option 1) Cut off most of a flange head and use it hook the inside edge, wedge the shaft sideways in the hole so it won't slip. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/pilot-bearings-101-a-513039/
Option 2) Pack it with grease then shove a tight fitting dowel down in there and hammer away using the hydraulic pressure to drive out the pilot in the opposite direction.
Loving option 2 and can do option 1 on the input shaft (bearing is capped). Pictures of the process coming soon!
- Location
- Southern Maryland
option 2 is common technique for pilot bearings. you can use a socket instead of a rod
- Location
- Southern Maryland
also this is probably not be a point of consideration anymore but coming to your thread late and wanted to reply
I have a CA emissions package on my Cadillac and ran into this issue with it, so I chased it down with the manufacturer out of curiousity. The CARB-certified converters are different in two ways. First, there is quite a bit extra wash on the honeycomb with higher precious metal content, to make the cat more effective (to meet the actual emission requirement). Second, CARB charges money for the certification process, and the manufacturer has to recoup that money with markup. So that is why they are way more expensive, they cost more to produce in terms of materials and regulatory issues.
I have a CA emissions package on my Cadillac and ran into this issue with it, so I chased it down with the manufacturer out of curiousity. The CARB-certified converters are different in two ways. First, there is quite a bit extra wash on the honeycomb with higher precious metal content, to make the cat more effective (to meet the actual emission requirement). Second, CARB charges money for the certification process, and the manufacturer has to recoup that money with markup. So that is why they are way more expensive, they cost more to produce in terms of materials and regulatory issues.
frijolee
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Big Island, HI
Transfer case is finally done.
Quick comparison of parts. Note, I was initially missing the drive sprocket from my ebay order but the seller squared me away.
This actually turned out to be a good thing because some (but not all) of the drive sprockets use internal bearings. These bearings weren’t part of the rebuild kit I ordered.
Random shot of harbor freight bearing press kit. I started with the mallet but found a few challenging enough that I pulled out the hydraulic press to be sure they were all the way seated (getting a few of the circ clips back in was kind of hard).
Check out the chain stretch! The old chain was still kind of kinked so it may not be sitting flat. No wonder it was skipping.
The vent appeared to be functioning fine so I never did find out why it blew fluid out the rear main seal. I did however discover that my new rear main seal with the rebuild kit was wrong though. Because the former owner had already done a SYE kit I needed a bigger ID. Took the measurements and it appears I have the Advance Apapters SYE kit (makes sense as they sell this in combination with a Tom Woods driveshaft, which I know I have).
I picked up Chicago Rawhide P/N 18662. It seem to be a bit nicer seal than what I had before… It’s wider but seats fine and incorporates 4 sealing surfaces instead of 2.
The rest of the assembly was pretty straight forward. Generous high temp RTV at the mating surfaces, torqued hardware per FSM, and it’s back to where it should be. Drives nice, just in time for King of the Hammers... One hot tip: if you have a 1/4” drive socket set (need a smaller head than a 3/8” drive) that makes locking down the 6x bolts that hold the transfer case to the transmission notably easier.
-Joel
Quick comparison of parts. Note, I was initially missing the drive sprocket from my ebay order but the seller squared me away.
This actually turned out to be a good thing because some (but not all) of the drive sprockets use internal bearings. These bearings weren’t part of the rebuild kit I ordered.
Random shot of harbor freight bearing press kit. I started with the mallet but found a few challenging enough that I pulled out the hydraulic press to be sure they were all the way seated (getting a few of the circ clips back in was kind of hard).
Check out the chain stretch! The old chain was still kind of kinked so it may not be sitting flat. No wonder it was skipping.
The vent appeared to be functioning fine so I never did find out why it blew fluid out the rear main seal. I did however discover that my new rear main seal with the rebuild kit was wrong though. Because the former owner had already done a SYE kit I needed a bigger ID. Took the measurements and it appears I have the Advance Apapters SYE kit (makes sense as they sell this in combination with a Tom Woods driveshaft, which I know I have).
I picked up Chicago Rawhide P/N 18662. It seem to be a bit nicer seal than what I had before… It’s wider but seats fine and incorporates 4 sealing surfaces instead of 2.
The rest of the assembly was pretty straight forward. Generous high temp RTV at the mating surfaces, torqued hardware per FSM, and it’s back to where it should be. Drives nice, just in time for King of the Hammers... One hot tip: if you have a 1/4” drive socket set (need a smaller head than a 3/8” drive) that makes locking down the 6x bolts that hold the transfer case to the transmission notably easier.
-Joel
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sparetire
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Smyrna, TN
Sorry
Last edited:
sparetire
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Smyrna, TN
Ok, this maybe to simple but I have a Subaru also and we put bikes up on the roof rack and on a rear bumper rack. Save the interior and rack it. Safer too.
sparetire
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Smyrna, TN
this is not where I was posting this comment it just sent it here, sorry. Keeps logging me off when I post to.
- Location
- San Diego
Ckanderson
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cali
holy crap... yea you are an engineer....
- Location
- South San Francisco, CA
and if you have one that has a swivel head, its EVEN easier
I used a swivel head gear wrench as well as a 1/4 drive ratchet when I did mine. Even with that, took forever!
frijolee
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Big Island, HI
Probably the sketchiest part of the T-case job for me was pulling the transmission cross member so I could drop the tail down a bit and have access to everything. My jack stands weren’t long enough to support the body so I was holding the Jeep up by the axles on a driveway with a bit of a slope to it. (I at least had the jack stands blocked to keep them vertical). Problem is, with the BDS lift kit the front axle is solely supported by long arms that tie back to the BDS transmission cross member.
Yep, I had to disconnect the very thing that was holding my rig up in the air up front. I blocked the hell out of all four wheels, shoved some extra jack stands in place in case the axle pitched, put the high lift on the front bumper (clicked up only a notch or two), and then went for it.
Oh and the cross member itself hangs up by the upper nuts so I never did pull it all the way out. (Enter my crappy, tiny, spare jack to keep that in place. Used a variety of wood to support perimeter of the oil pan as the powertrain assembly dropped down using the mechanics jack.
Then on reinstall I had to use a 10k lbf ratchet strap and some gusto to pull everything back in line so I could bolt it up. Morale of the story, I’m sooooooo glad I didn’t try this in the rain/mud at the junkyard that day.
-Joel
P.S. Ehall, forgot to mention it but thanks for the CA cat converter background. Looks like I’m saving the planet after all.
Yep, I had to disconnect the very thing that was holding my rig up in the air up front. I blocked the hell out of all four wheels, shoved some extra jack stands in place in case the axle pitched, put the high lift on the front bumper (clicked up only a notch or two), and then went for it.
Oh and the cross member itself hangs up by the upper nuts so I never did pull it all the way out. (Enter my crappy, tiny, spare jack to keep that in place. Used a variety of wood to support perimeter of the oil pan as the powertrain assembly dropped down using the mechanics jack.
Then on reinstall I had to use a 10k lbf ratchet strap and some gusto to pull everything back in line so I could bolt it up. Morale of the story, I’m sooooooo glad I didn’t try this in the rain/mud at the junkyard that day.
-Joel
P.S. Ehall, forgot to mention it but thanks for the CA cat converter background. Looks like I’m saving the planet after all.
sandsgg
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sierra vista for the time being
Beautiful
- Location
- Patterson, Ca
For safety, why not remove tires and lower the body on to the jack stands? I find it easier to lower the jeep a bit so I don't have to lift the tcase as high when reinstalling anyway.
