Rockclimber has it right, but for the wrong reason. The amount of separation itself doesn't matter, but it gets you want you want. The upper arm angle needs to be less, so either the frame side mount needs to come down or the axle side mount needs to go up. I believe this would help your problem. Don't bother with the calculator, other than just for curiosity, it doesn't really tell you anything about a front application.
I missed this.
I wasn't very clear, separation does matter, in the context of this suspension. if the
axle side mounts are closer together, and the frame side mounts are still stock distance apart the IC has gone down, if you keep the same amount of separation at both ends, your IC will go up.
I'd cut off the stock mount, plate the frame, and weld on a pre-fabbed mount of choice with the bolt in the vertical position. Simple, just do a good job of attaching the plate to the existing crappy frame. The UCA mount on my buggy's front 3 link is done this way. You can move the mount downward and rearward while you're at it to get a little longer arm and a flatter arm angle.
I like that idea, do you run into travel issues running the bolt vertical?
I raised my axle side lowers when I built the front axle, along with OTK steering and the track bar mounts to match. That was at 4" of lift. My goal currently is to get the jeep working well for everyday use at a lower height for the 31s. It would be nice to start from a stock one but there is alot into this one and I still wheel it.
if you are going to lower the ride height you don't need to raise the UCA mount at the axle, lowering the body will make the arm flatter.
I do not have drop brackets but thought of pocketing the frame to raise/correct my lower angle. The frame is plated up front currently so I could reinforce it the rest of the way. So at this point the arms should be at stock angles compared to each other and I should further angle them away from each other with either raising the axle side upper or lowering the frame side?
its not just the angle to each other. its also the angle of the arm itself at ride-height.
also, how hard are you braking. inertia will cause some diving of the front end during hard braking. if you have crappy shocks and springs, that will be increased.
Besides NVH (and I agree, so what?), the other common web-wheeler complaint is that 2 hard joints in a link increase stress and will wear much more quickly. So the issue with a DD is that the mileage piles on quickly: 15k mile lifespan may be 1 year in a DD, but 5 in a trail rig.
I have no experience so can't speak on this. What's your take?
I have had Currie Johnny joints on all 4 CA mounts of my XJ for the last 2 years. daily driven, 15-16k per year. all 8 joints are still perfectly tight.
the 7/8" rod end on my frame side TB mount has worn out in about 6 months. not sure why, the 3/4" lasted a year in that spot and is now in the axle side mount and still not worn out...