• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Sick Dog Racing Jeepspeed Build

Do you have some kind of splash guard or seal between the filler neck and the window cover panel? If not, you might want to consider at least a foam or rubber gasket. Any Fuel spilling out of a fill can or coming back out of the fill neck from an over-fill is going to spill right down inside the truck.

Not sure if there's anything you can do about it, or if it's even an issue, but the closed off window panel makes it hard for the fuel man to see when the gas starts filling up in the filler neck. He won't know when the tank's full.

Man your right I need to seal this up. I was trying to keep the door operational. Thanks for the heads up.

General safety rules for MORE, SNORE, BITD, SCORE say that it must be designed from fuel entering the passenger compartment. That is why most teams stick the filler through the rear stationary window and seal around it.
 
General safety rules for MORE, SNORE, BITD, SCORE say that it must be designed from fuel entering the passenger compartment. That is why most teams stick the filler through the rear stationary window and seal around it.

Thanks.
 
Isn't that great? :spin1:

Awesome when you spend all that time working on every detail, then you finally get it all together and get to hear the pretty engine sounds! :thumbup:

You know you're not supposed to rev the engine like that when it's cold, right? :laugh3:
 
Isn't that great? :spin1:

Awesome when you spend all that time working on every detail, then you finally get it all together and get to hear the pretty engine sounds! :thumbup:

You know you're not supposed to rev the engine like that when it's cold, right? :laugh3:


Thanks

I had it running for sometime before that video, it was warm.
 
actually, you're not supposed to rev an engine up with no load on it, cold or warm. It's bad for the bearings ;)

Yea but Im gangster like that.............
 
LOL
 
I've been troubled with trying to wire the 88 AW4 trans to a 97 wire loom. I also wanted to be able to control shift points manually. Spending a thousand dollars on a manual valve body wasn't an option. I thought I'd give RADsigns Products a call. Rory DesJardin recommended the Baja shifter for my build. So I just received my new Baja shifter and I'm ready to install it.
IMG_20110115_204621.jpg
 
I've been troubled with trying to wire the 88 AW4 trans to a 97 wire loom. I also wanted to be able to control shift points manually. Spending a thousand dollars on a manual valve body wasn't an option. I thought I'd give RADsigns Products a call. Rory DesJardin recommended the Baja shifter for my build. So I just received my new Baja shifter and I'm ready to install it.
IMG_20110115_204621.jpg

you won't regret it, the best mod that can be done to the AW4 IMO
 
The Baja shifter is a pretty cool little unit. It was really easy to install and wire. The hardest thing you have to do is find out which wires are your number 1 shift solenoid, number 2 shift solenoid and the TC lock. I used the Jeep FSM to locate my wires, but the instruction walk you through finding the wires need without the FSM. I removed my TCM and using only 4 wires I now have full manual shift control. Keeping my TCM I would have needed to find homes for about ten more wires plus the TCM itself. I may install it later with a switch to control auto or manual control.
I hade to redsign my center console a bit to alow the Baja shifter to fit.
ShifterD.jpg

ShifterA.jpg

I installed a switch for the TC lock.
ShifterB.jpg
 
Back
Top