Tying TNT truss into diff...

[northwestxj]

Perhaps add some plate to the top of the Ruffstuff cover, the same thickness as the cover flange, that extends up a few inches, install a couple or 3 tube sleeves in the truss before installing, then run 2-3 bolts thru the truss and the cover extension........hmmmm.

I was thinking something like that too, with high grade carriage bolts for clearance reasons and a nut on the back of the truss.

 

[GordoSmasho]

Depending on the cover what about welding some sort of bracket of heavy guage to the cover that would then bolt to the truss on each side of the pumpkin. that way when you pull the cover the Its just a few more bolts. Also this would not increase the height of the truss over the pumpkin just a little thicker on the cover.

 

[GordoSmasho]

example

 

[GordoSmasho]

I know its a rough image but the concept is there.

 

[northwestxj]

example

That's basically what I'll prob be doing but going vertically instead of horizontally. Going horizontally, like your picture, would be quite a bit harder because the cover is rounded.

 

[GordoSmasho]

I would think that going horizontally would be more rigid being that it is attatched on two sides rather than one. The ruffstuff covers have a flat spot in the center section.

 

[northwestxj]

I would think that going horizontally would be more rigid being that it is attatched on two sides rather than one. The ruffstuff covers have a flat spot in the center section.

The way I'm talking about will basically be attached to two "sides" as well. I would think that the strength difference between the two ways would be very minimal, and vertically would be much easier. I also wouldn't need to buy a new cover. Thanks for your ideas and suggestions.

This is essentially what I'm talking about. The yellow is obviously bolts and will either be regular hex heads or possibly carriage bolts going through the truss, depending on clearance issues:

 

[GordoSmasho]

I see now. So you will be welding that plate to your solid diff cover.

 

[northwestxj]

I see now. So you will be welding that plate to your solid diff cover.

Yep exactly.

 

[rhinoron713]

looks like the best option!!!

 

[JAS]

I think you should use counter sunk bolts... That way the diff cover can not move the slop on the bolts... I know that is only a few thousands but having the counter sunk bolts like Ruff Stuff stops even that amount of movement.

Then you actually have to flex the cover and the center chunk to get something to move. Not just take up the slop around the bolts.

Jeff

 

[northwestxj]

I think you should use counter sunk bolts... That way the diff cover can not move the slop on the bolts... I know that is only a few thousands but having the counter sunk bolts like Ruff Stuff stops even that amount of movement.

Then you actually have to flex the cover and the center chunk to get something to move. Not just take up the slop around the bolts.

Jeff

Totally understand what you're saying, and it's not a bad idea, but do you really think that when there is 10 bolts holding the diff cover on that it can move because of slop?

I have a hard time thinking that when all the bolts are on and torqued to spec that the cover could possibly move, even if the bolts are smaller then all the holes are.

 

[XJEEPER]

The way I'm talking about will basically be attached to two "sides" as well. I would think that the strength difference between the two ways would be very minimal, and vertically would be much easier. I also wouldn't need to buy a new cover. Thanks for your ideas and suggestions.

This is essentially what I'm talking about. The yellow is obviously bolts and will either be regular hex heads or possibly carriage bolts going through the truss, depending on clearance issues:

Thanks for putting my idea in a visual.....great minds think alike. It will work.

 

[northwestxj]

Thanks for putting my idea in a visual.....great minds think alike. It will work.

I agree, great minds do think alike. I think it will work too, but I still am considering what JAS said about countersunk bolts. I called Dan at Ruff Stuff today and asked him about the cover moving with hex bolts and he seems to think that it could definitely flex and move. He sells his with the option of hex bolts or countersunk bolts so I don't think that he would just say that.

What is everybody eles's opinions? Is it worth buying a new cover with countersunk bolts?

Seems as though if I did that I would need to use countersunk bolts on the top three of the plate that ties into the truss as well, otherwise they could slightly move and it would just defeat the purpose of using them on the diff cover.

 

[northwestxj]

So just got my axle back from getting a little welding done. I guess I didn't realize that the truss sat so much farther back from the front of the diff/cover (see pic below). In order to tie them in, I would either need to use a piece of 3/4" thick steel or use some small tube and use a bolt that goes through the plate, through the tube, then through the truss and use a nut on the back.

This just got quite a bit harder after just getting my axle back and not remembering quite how it was...

 

[Magus2727]

could you weld a bead so the truss is right into the pumpkin? it looks close enough drop some cut out 3/8" steels and weld the pumpkin fully to the truss.

 

[Skullver]

aren't those Solid covers cast iron(cast steel?)I remember mine was pretty porous inside, not sure how great of a weld you will be getting on one of those anyways.

 

[northwestxj]

aren't those Solid covers cast iron(cast steel?)I remember mine was pretty porous inside, not sure how great of a weld you will be getting on one of those anyways.

True, it is cast i think, that's a good point.

could you weld a bead so the truss is right into the pumpkin? it looks close enough drop some cut out 3/8" steels and weld the pumpkin fully to the truss.

It's actually not real close. If you look at the pic on the first page it shows it better. You could do it like you said, but you would have to cut out a piece to extend the truss down to be able to weld to the diff itself. May be a better option as of now though. Still pretty hard to weld to the diff though because it's cast too though. I don't weld, so the guy I take it to would be doing it.

 

[Magus2727]

I was thinking of not going into the diff cover but to the housing of the pumpkin it self...

The pumpkin is cast so pre-heating would probably be advised (kind of like welding the axle tubes on a Ford 8.8.

If you weld to the pumpkin you don't have to worry about bolts to the truss, cover, etc...
and should be just as strong as if it was welded to the cover.

 

[JAS]

Totally understand what you're saying, and it's not a bad idea, but do you really think that when there is 10 bolts holding the diff cover on that it can move because of slop?

I have a hard time thinking that when all the bolts are on and torqued to spec that the cover could possibly move, even if the bolts are smaller then all the holes are.

Without wanting to start a pissing match on the internet.... I do think that it can move sideways a few thousandths of an inch...

Will that matter... I do not know.