best investments on the XJ.....

[NW-ZJ-SCOTT]

so, here is my setup.. its a beginner stage jeep.

89 renix aw4/242 Good running Zj motor, with open cooling, non cracked Manifold, Flowmaster exhaust
Dana 30/35 the 30 has 297xShafts and the 35 is Non-Cclip 3.55 gears
5" hybrid lift bastard pack/3" springs with spacers. rustys Lower control arms (non adj)
33/14.00/15 boggers on 15x10 rock crawler wheels
Cheap 3 bolt front steel bumper with shackles
tow package with recovery shackle
OEM tank and tcase skids (1" tcase drop)


I am expected to get a chunk of cash in a little while, (few months)
this rig is a "toy" but i would like to take it to the next stage, and make it more of a street worthy rig.

I plan to use $4000-$5000 and knock out a few of the big ticket items. i like the height of the rig now, wouldnt mind another inch, but right now its fine.

Some would ask, "what am i looking for out of the jeep when it comes to the money"
My response, i want to take it to my local wheelin spots, i like a veriety, i dont ever see it being a "rock crawler" and im not about to chop the rear, as it serves as a tent for my kids when i camp.

here's my "ideas" so far..

29spline 8.25 axle 3.55 gears Aussie locked (125+280)

Aussie locker for the Dana 30. stronger 760x Joints welded with an almost alloy kit from IRO. ($400)

Rubicon express SYE with front driveline for the rear ($200) *already have spare front shaft*

Claytons Long arm kit ($1000)

33" Tires ($750)

Aj's or JCR Rails ($250)

Diff covers $200 (brand?)

Warn M8000 winch ($300) *uncle builds them*

winch bumper ($400) Possibly the ebay winch bumper?


thats around $4000, little more with parts shipping..

Any disagreements? where else should i focus on? anything on my list you would change?

long arms/lockers/winch are my main concerns..


I know most would re-gear, but at only 33"s i just dont see that hurdle being needed yet, i personally dont mind the 3.55s with 33s... i am searching for 4.10 geared axles at all the local yards...

 

[magimerlin]

That s a pretty good list. 1 thing I would do if going to 33" is to ditch the 3.55 gears and go with something closer to 4.56's. Everyone will yah or nah this but that is what I run for gears with 32's (hopefully soon to be 33's) and it is just about perfect on the rpm range on and off road... But keep in mind that this is what works for me, and is only my opinion.

 

[AL BUNDY]

You may not be able to use the 'Full-Time' 4wd option if you add a locker to the front Dana 30.
Absolutely swap out the D35 for the 8.25.
You are on 33's but buying 33's? Buying new ones?
Things can end up being more than you planned so I would prioritize what you want the most and get that 1st. Good luck.

 

[NW-ZJ-SCOTT]

You may not be able to use the 'Full-Time' 4wd option if you add a locker to the front Dana 30.
Absolutely swap out the D35 for the 8.25.
You are on 33's but buying 33's? Buying new ones?
Things can end up being more than you planned so I would prioritize what you want the most and get that 1st. Good luck.

I have heard of the issue with a full-time locker in Full-time 4wd.. im okay with it..

the 33"s i have now, are TSL Boggers, they are used and will not balance out at all, i have 10oz of airsoft BB's in them now, and its just awful. to top it off they measure out to 30.8" tall. they are about 40% tread left. my buddy has 33" KM2's and his look like 35"s compared to my 33"s..

and my main problem with re-gearing is, unless i step up too 35"s i dont see an issue with the 33"s.. it just seems like so much money to run 35"s, Re-gearing alone will run me atleast $1500 i know NOTHING about setting up gears, so it would be the only thing i need to pay someone labor for..

 

[Tenny]

You may not be able to use the 'Full-Time' 4wd option if you add a locker to the front Dana 30.

I have a Detroit Tru-Track in my D30, and with Fulltime 4x4 I got no where (when I had my rear shaft removed after I did my SYE and waited for a new DS).

 

[stewie]

and my main problem with re-gearing is, unless i step up too 35"s i dont see an issue with the 33"s.. it just seems like so much money to run 35"s, Re-gearing alone will run me atleast $1500 i know NOTHING about setting up gears, so it would be the only thing i need to pay someone labor for..

most dont realize how much driving on stock gears sucks with larger tires until after they regear. find someone with deeper gears in their rig and see if you can drive it even if just arround the block. note the better throttle responce, better shift points and improvement seent through the butt dino. then you will see how much of a dog the stock gears really are. i love my rig now that i have regeared. i didnt realize how much it sucked with stock gears.

 

[NW-ZJ-SCOTT]

most dont realize how much driving on stock gears sucks with larger tires until after they regear. find someone with deeper gears in their rig and see if you can drive it even if just arround the block. note the better throttle responce, better shift points and improvement seent through the butt dino. then you will see how much of a dog the stock gears really are. i love my rig now that i have regeared. i didnt realize how much it sucked with stock gears.

I completely agree with you, its just, with my budget, and my list so far, what would you Change to be able to afford a Re-gear? i mean, in all reality, i want what anyone in my shoes would want, long arms/sliders/winch i mean, the main point is, what comes FIRST... whats more "Important"

 

[Jess]

I would add the WJ booster/mc swap. I think that is one of the best mods I have done to my 89. I got my parts off ebay for less than $30 and it made huge improvements in the braking ability.

Instead of spending alot of money on sliders and bumpers, you should invest your money in a good welder and make them yourself. They may not be perfect, but you will learn alot and you will need a welder at another time.

 

[NW-ZJ-SCOTT]

I would add the WJ booster/mc swap. I think that is one of the best mods I have done to my 89. I got my parts off ebay for less than $30 and it made huge improvements in the braking ability.

Instead of spending alot of money on sliders and bumpers, you should invest your money in a good welder and make them yourself. They may not be perfect, but you will learn alot and you will need a welder at another time.

i already have a 96 booster and master

and i like the idea of making parts.. but at this rate i dont have the time for it. i just want to bolt up and go. for now...
i've thought about that many times..

 

[Nickfast]

You need a new CB antenna, is what you need!
Scott, I will second the thought of going lower on your gears.
I would be sorely tempted to run 4.10's in mine as it sits, and if I was running or contemplating running bigger, I would run 4.56.
Your tire diameter isn't the only thing, those Boggers are some heavy mofos.
I would also be tempted to scab a piece of steel onto those bumper brackets to tie into some more holes-just because it hasen't ripped off yet doesn't mean it would hold up to a double-lined winch pull.
If you reinforced your mounts, you could put a winch plate on that existing bumper and mount that Warn.
Definately lock the rear, and I would go selectable in the front.
One thing you didn't mention, that I would look into, is a welder and some steel to practice on / build stuff with.
Some of the things you want to do would be less if you buzzed them out yourself instead of paying someone or buying off the shelf parts.
I would also reinforce some areas of the underside-remember those tears at the rear part of your rails?
I don't know if it's an issue on these, but I would want to scab those (will do it on mine at some point).

Nick

 

[ryanlight415]

I am re gearing from 3.07's to 4.56's before i even buy tires/wheels. I lifted it first. Re enforce the steering box. I found cracks in the subframe around the steering box with 160 k miles and not that much abuse. CROK kit worked good for me. LOOSE the 35 rear end. not a question of if but when it will break. I all ready re-built one in my dads YJ. HE doesnt even wheel it. Buy used axles re geared to 456s or so to save money. If you want serious capability - gears and lockers are the best bang for your buck. You have the tire to put it to the ground- boggers- now turn them. Buy a $600 220v mig welder or a $400 110v one if you dont have access to 220 and build your own bumpers/skids/armor/brackets/art/doodads/presents for friends and loved ones. Its fun. My welders my jeeps best friend and worst enemy. Im surprised I dont have a picture of them next to each other.

 

[ryanlight415]

Also SYE!!! with 5 inches your playing with fire. Ive seen stock driveshafts fall out on stock cherokees!!

 

[Ba-Riedo]

Almost alloy kit is stupid, you can weld in the 297x joints yourself.

-Alex

 

[Muddy Beast]

I typed up a long response...and then my browser deleted it.

So in short, I'd suggest axles after armor, that's what I did and I don't regret it. Naches was the real proving grounds at the rocks for me and I was satisfied. I dropped about $3000 into my axles (along with new hubs, seals, u-joints, diff covers, labor, etc. so I basically have brand new axles) and wouldn't have it any other way (except for cheaper! haha).

I'd put winch last or next to long arms, neither are absolutely necessary on the trails as long as your with a buddy, but things like lockers and armor will prevent you from getting far. (unless of course your uncle hooks it up quick, in which case go for it...and can he hook me up? :thumbup

~Scott

 

[NW-ZJ-SCOTT]

so, another "Variation" of the list

8.8 welded up for an XJ
4.88 gears
spool? or Lunchbox? (cant afford a full or selectable locker)
Diff cover (heard 8.8 covers are paper thin)

Dana 30
4.88 gears
aussie'd
alloy shafts

What am i looking at with cost?

 

[Ba-Riedo]

so, another "Variation" of the list

8.8 welded up for an XJ
4.88 gears
spool? or Lunchbox? (cant afford a full or selectable locker)
Diff cover (heard 8.8 covers are paper thin)

Dana 30
4.88 gears
aussie'd
alloy shafts

What am i looking at with cost?

Ditch the alloys, you don't need them. I run stock shafts with the joints welded in on 35's, love my skinny pedal, but know when to stop. Also selectables are a waste of money totally, my full case Detroit will always lock up in the rear. When I am in 4wd my lockrite will lockup. I don't have to worry about blowing a air line, having a electrical connection go out, or something else of that nature happen.

-Alex

 

[NW-ZJ-SCOTT]

Ditch the alloys, you don't need them. I run stock shafts with the joints welded in on 35's, love my skinny pedal, but know when to stop. Also selectables are a waste of money totally, my full case Detroit will always lock up in the rear. When I am in 4wd my lockrite will lockup. I don't have to worry about blowing a air line, having a electrical connection go out, or something else of that nature happen.

-Alex

so your saying Aussie's front and rear will be just fine right? alot of people run this setup, they wheel right next to the guys with the ARB's and Full detroits. i have never seen someone be "rejected" on a trail simply because they didnt spend triple the cash on a type of locker?:gag:

now i understand, with a 242, i essentially lose the use of Full-time 4wd.. so be it..

 

[BillDunn83]

if you want a good winch bumper you can get this one from fullsizexjgear.com the guys name is fullsizexj on here and he charges 375 for this

 

[Ba-Riedo]

if you want a good winch bumper you can get this one from fullsizexjgear.com the guys name is fullsizexj on here and he charges 375 for this

Is that the Hanson bumper?

-Alex

 

[Muddy Beast]

Ditch the alloys, you don't need them. I run stock shafts with the joints welded in on 35's, love my skinny pedal, but know when to stop. Also selectables are a waste of money totally, my full case Detroit will always lock up in the rear. When I am in 4wd my lockrite will lockup. I don't have to worry about blowing a air line, having a electrical connection go out, or something else of that nature happen.

-Alex

Wrong.
It's a matter of opinion but if you have and use the 242 case it makes things that much more valid to go selectable. If you've never owned them, then you don't know. Sure you can say, "I heard this" "I saw this" but bottom line is it wasn't you so you don't REALLY know. Proper installation of any selectable locker can avoid 95% of the headaches some people get from them.

In Scott's case it sounds like he doesn't care if he loses his full-time, and so yes for him a selectable doesn't make sence. But no use giving bad info to everyone else.

~Scott