Building a MJ prerunner...

http://www.bajaconcepts.com/jeep.htm

http://www.kartek.com/products/truck/jeepspeed/jeepspeed.htm

http://hannemannfiberglass.com/Jeep_Commanche.html

http://www.deaverspring.com/

Here is the better place to get your questions answered. They were very helpful with me:

http://www.jeepspeed.com/forum/

I was turned onto the rubicon express kits from the jeepspeed guys. The stuff works nicely fror them.

If I were to build one up, I would get Rubicon coils and deaver leaf packs. I have also had great luck with Sway-away Racerunner shocks. The price and quality is unbeatable. I paid 600.00 a pair for 2.5" res shocks. I think you will discover that that is quite a fair price. What is nice is that they are already thready so if you decide to go coilover down the road, you just need to get the nut kit and brace accordingly.

To Rsalmi: as for the bed being gone, here in this state (KY), as long as you have someway to keep down how much stuff is thrown up off of the roadway, whatever will fly. I was thinking that for the tail lights, that I could just run some L.E.D. strips on the tube frame for the bed area, and DOT reflector tape.
As for the DD/Prerunner thing, I am willing to go more for the Prerunner, since most of the roads I drive on around here are either 1) BADLY needing repair, 2) gravel, 3) dirt. Besides, when/if I get tried of being flogged to death by a suspension sytem still in the R&D period, I have other Jeeps to drive. That and I love playing truck polo. ( like normal polo, but with a truck and a passenger to swing the mallet. I guess that you can call it a game of trust also, since you can get some REALLY dumb@$$ people out there trying to drive.)

have you ruled out going IFS up front? a lot of fab work, but really the best way to go for pre-runner

XJ_ranger said:

18 posts in the thread, all but 3 are by the same guy...




this will be interesting...

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thats the way he pads his post count... :wave:

really? does that work?

Okay, today has been crazy and productive. I found a set of rather recent vintage leaf springs on a '97 S-10 Blazer that are about 62 1/2" long and are mostly thin leaves with 8 in the pack. I also snagged the rear end out of 98-99 Toy Taco, but I may trade or sell it, since I already have the D 44 rear from the Scout II, which is about 63"flange/flange. I went and snatched the front tube axle out of a 2wd Scout II while I was at it. This gives me matching axle widths and bolt patterns.
I also went and stole the front springs (Rancho) from my wifes XJ, along with the Terra-Flex adj. upper and lower arms (the lowers actually "twist" when articulated). Got to start somewhere, right?
As for the IFS possibility, if anything, I would most likely use the front beam set-up from a Ford Ranger if I go that way.

ren said:

As for the IFS possibility, if anything, I would most likely use the front beam set-up from a Ford Ranger if I go that way.

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either mimicking a Toyota front end or the Ranger TTB would be a great way to go.

using those Scout axles will be a lot easier though. does the front beam axle use D44 outers? you may need some sort of custom or aftermarket steering. Also, if this is a 2wd pre-runner, you don't need to worry much about breakover clearance, so building low hanging longarms or lower hangars for the leafs won't present a problem. Sounds like a good find on the leafs, run the SUA with a good long shackle.

start shopping for some good deals on some shocks, that's going to be a huge part of making this successful.

Yes, the Scout front axle 2wd/4wd use D30 or D44 outers, so that opens a lot of steering options. I am thinking about using the outers from my '79 FSJ Cherokee front D44, since BOTH knuckles are flat tops, and use the GM brackets and calipers allready. Just use the Scout/CJ disks and hubs, works wonders as long as you watch your wheel b/s.
I am talking to Fox shock co. in the morning about what they suggest, so I may end up having to build this thing so that I can scale it, to get the right valving/pressures.
Ohyeah, IF any body cares, the ScoutII front D44 uses a 290 u-joint on a CJ splne and length stub axle. Just thought you'd like to know.

-just keep the 30 and truss/build it. you're not gonna break it unless you lock it.
-a good cage is manditory.
-8.8 rear is pretty cheap and tough. good brakes too.
-also, get your springs done before worrying too much on shocks. the valving is pretty dependant on spring rate.
-3-4" lift w/ 31-32's will be pretty good for fire roads. the key is "hard in front and soft in rear" you could prolly swing 12 or 13" travel in the rear.

Yeah, I thought about the 8.8, but I already have the ScoutII D44 and it is 4.27 geared with a TIGHT L/S, so that is the reasoning with that. As for the Fox shocks, like I posted I still need to get this thing wieghed after I get the rest of it built and hopefully some run time, so I can better explain to the people how the MJ is acting/reacting. The 31" tires are about the biggest this thing will see, so no prob. with the lift height. I also like the width of the Scout axles, since they are only 1.25" wider per side than the stock junk, and since my MJ is a 2wd, the front TUBE axle from the scout should be fine, since it is about 3/8" thick. I plan on making my axle brackets out of 1/4" thick steel, with plates under the LCA mounts to help keep from snagging the LCA's.

ren said:

Yeah, I thought about the 8.8, but I already have the ScoutII D44 and it is 4.27 geared with a TIGHT L/S, so that is the reasoning with that. As for the Fox shocks, like I posted I still need to get this thing wieghed after I get the rest of it built and hopefully some run time, so I can better explain to the people how the MJ is acting/reacting. The 31" tires are about the biggest this thing will see, so no prob. with the lift height. I also like the width of the Scout axles, since they are only 1.25" wider per side than the stock junk, and since my MJ is a 2wd, the front TUBE axle from the scout should be fine, since it is about 3/8" thick. I plan on making my axle brackets out of 1/4" thick steel, with plates under the LCA mounts to help keep from snagging the LCA's.

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since you're starting with a bare tube and adding brackets, and you're only going to need a couple (3-4) inches of lift; you should raise both the upper and lower mounts on the axle so that the lower mount is flush with the bottom of the tube and the geometry stays the same. This will increase clearance, and get pretty good control arm angles even with short arms.

Actually, that is a VERY good point, since it would "clean up" the bottom of the tube, and help to keep the nose up just a little bit more than the rear, without having to run a taller spring. Makes me happy that the Terra-flex lower arms are adjustable. If I am not mistaken, if the lca brackets move up to be flush with the bottom of the tube, then that is roughly 2",yes?

i would try out some v8 grand coils or something. mabye cut. the only reason to lift the front is to give you more sprung uptravel.

Sounds like a great opportunity to pick up a crap-tastic s-10/ranger for junkyard wanderings and focus the MJ on having fun.
Jeep on!
--Pete

I think if I was to do this I would start with a frame from either a ranger or toyota and then make the cab fit the frame. think about it, to do it right you should have a frame or sleeve the existing MJ "frame". You have to build coilover mounts in the front (if you go this way) and different shock mounts in the rear. Built different spring/shackle mounts. Build a roll cage. And you really should move the engine back for weight balance.

I would swap to fiberglass bedsides, fenders and hood. If you do all this you have basically completele redesigned to chassis anyway to be able to mount them, so you might as well start with something that has a real frame.

Or maybe better yet remove everthing from the chassis then cut of the fram ebehind the cab and unibody in front of the cab and go from there. Time to fire up the tubing bender. This way you have the choice of front and rear suspension, placement of the fuel cell, engine, radiator, and battery. I would go long arm IFS in front and 4 link in the rear.

But then again i'm a glutton for punishment.

Dingo

Well, I ordered my 'glass parts today. The new rear quarters', hood, and front fenders should be here in about a month, hopefully. As for anybody griping about me whacking a good MJ short bed, I am using one that got smashed down the entire drivers' side, so relax, the almost mint bed is still in the same almost mint condition that it started this project in. I am think about starting the front/rear bumber fab tomorrow, and maybe starting to bracket the front tube axle, since the rear only needed the spring pads relocated (done). Will post pix next weekend of parts and installs, if any body wants to see them. Also will be posting pix of underhood going-ons.
Later,
Ren

If you'd like to post them at www.comancheclub.com/forums , we'd love to see them!
Jeep on!
--Pete