Steel or Aluminum?

I would never run steel wheels on any vechile that I was going to be running off road!

al-yew-min-eum all the way

Jes said:

I would never run steel wheels on any vechile that I was going to be running off road!

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2X
Steel wheels are ghey.

Steel wheels are very cheap to replace/fix and you can torque your lugs harder without worrying about flaring your mounting flange holes. They also don't oxidize/discolor/pit from the winter months as easy.

For a Sunday-Go-to-Meeting, I've spent the day polishing the Wife's Aluminum rims.
I've spent an hour repainting my steel rims with a rattle can.
Rattle can any day BABY!
eace:

XJEEPER said:

The fact that you can bend a steel wheel is why I run aluminum. Pounding out a bent lip is nice, but how easy is it to straighten a steel wheel that is bent at the wheel center? I see this all the time, especially on the cheap steel "RockCrawler" rims.

On a trailered rig, I'd be inclined to go with steel, but on a daily driver that sees regular trail time, aluminum.

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Ditto, on the aluminum, this one doesn't look too beat but there are chunks missing and rash everywhere, sure you hit it hard enough it will crack but what wheel won't if hit hard enough. Besides you can spray paint Aluminuim wheels too:spin1:

Mosephus said:

Ditto, on the aluminum, this one doesn't look too beat but there are chunks missing and rash everywhere, sure you hit it hard enough it will crack but what wheel won't if hit hard enough. Besides you can spray paint Aluminuim wheels too:spin1:

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Two words.......SA WEEEEEEET!!!!
Ok, details. How'd you do that???

TunaSoda said:

Steel wheels are very cheap to replace/fix and you can torque your lugs harder without worrying about flaring your mounting flange holes. They also don't oxidize/discolor/pit from the winter months as easy.

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So, you're saying by running steel wheels that somehow I can exceed the 85 ft/lb torque spec on the lug nuts?
Sweet.

Sand paper and lots of time.

Jes said:

So, you're saying by running steel wheels that somehow I can exceed the 85 ft/lb torque spec on the lug nuts?
Sweet.

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I'm saying you have less to worry about if you over-tighten the lugs by hand (without a T-Wrench)

It is plate steel

And I have seen many places like Town Fair Tire over-tighten lugs hard!

On my factory Jeep Aluminum rims I would enjoy watchin someone try to overtighten the lugs and f-up my rims. One of my wheels had a lug not that got stuck on from the d-heads that torque the lugs to whatever the capacity of the air tool was. It would not come off after two hours of a garage trying to get it off with e-z outs, etc, etc. They told me they would need to take a torch to the lug nut (it was a P.O.S. jacketed lug) and get it super hot to try to get it off. obviusly, they warned me the rim would likely turn to complete sh1t after this process, but i had a spare and needed it off regardless. After about 10 minutes the lug popped off, and we began to examine the rim. We wiped the black off and nothing had happened to the rim. mind you, this is a lug embedded in 1" aluminum hole. I was surprised and now I am a hell o a lot more confident in my rims than before. i have since moved this rim to my spare as a precaution, but would not hesitate to use it. I believe they were forged from the factory, but not sure.