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Serious Offroad Steering P\N’s
- Thread starter rehberg79
- Start date
only 2 of the tie rods can be purchased at a parts store, the drivers side tie rod, and the high angle tie rod for the drag link that attaches to your pitman arm.
the drivers side tie rod has been reamed ( or at least mine had been) to accept the tre that frank used on the drag link. i called ruffstuff and bought the drivers side tre and the drag link tre along with the cure to help stop my tie rod roll. i am installing it tonight, i will post here all the part numbers i have come up with so far tonight when i confirm that everything worked,.
do you have otk or utk steering set up? also did you use his track bar setup? i have had some difficulties dialing everything in ( much of it my fault) i am curious as to how you are linking your setup.
the drivers side tie rod has been reamed ( or at least mine had been) to accept the tre that frank used on the drag link. i called ruffstuff and bought the drivers side tre and the drag link tre along with the cure to help stop my tie rod roll. i am installing it tonight, i will post here all the part numbers i have come up with so far tonight when i confirm that everything worked,.
do you have otk or utk steering set up? also did you use his track bar setup? i have had some difficulties dialing everything in ( much of it my fault) i am curious as to how you are linking your setup.
ok, here is the info i have gathered up so far.
over the counter parts, es2234r is your drivers side tre
es2027l is your high angle tre to your pitman arm
ruffstuff parts, tk234 es2233L and r1768
the passenger tre has a tapered hole in it. you will have to specify when you order whether you have otk or utk steering setup, that part number is es2233l they have them reamed to fit their tk234 tre and is also reamed and set for the cure to be added to the tre, the ruffstuff tk234 will not fit the serious offroad reamed es2233L it is too loose, i dont know what frank used for a tre there and i could never find anything that fit it correctly. also the parts store ES2234R looks like it will work in place of the tk234 but i wanted to buy theirs as i know they are machined to fit each other, but may be a good replacement later down the road.
now i believe you could buy the es2233L from a parts store and ream the taper yourself to fit the es2234R but i didnt want to go that route, but may in a future build. so in theory all 4 tres can be bought at the parts store, if you have the tapered reamer in your toolbox and are comfortable doing so.
hope that helps and didnt add anymore confusion to your problems. i ordered my parts from ruffstuff thursday evening they were here (maine) yesterday, they are pleasant to deal with and easilly answered the questions i had.
i will not get a chance to swap out my parts tonight, but will post on here when i am done to confirm it all works, hopefully this weekend,
good luck and let me know if you have more questions
over the counter parts, es2234r is your drivers side tre
es2027l is your high angle tre to your pitman arm
ruffstuff parts, tk234 es2233L and r1768
the passenger tre has a tapered hole in it. you will have to specify when you order whether you have otk or utk steering setup, that part number is es2233l they have them reamed to fit their tk234 tre and is also reamed and set for the cure to be added to the tre, the ruffstuff tk234 will not fit the serious offroad reamed es2233L it is too loose, i dont know what frank used for a tre there and i could never find anything that fit it correctly. also the parts store ES2234R looks like it will work in place of the tk234 but i wanted to buy theirs as i know they are machined to fit each other, but may be a good replacement later down the road.
now i believe you could buy the es2233L from a parts store and ream the taper yourself to fit the es2234R but i didnt want to go that route, but may in a future build. so in theory all 4 tres can be bought at the parts store, if you have the tapered reamer in your toolbox and are comfortable doing so.
hope that helps and didnt add anymore confusion to your problems. i ordered my parts from ruffstuff thursday evening they were here (maine) yesterday, they are pleasant to deal with and easilly answered the questions i had.
i will not get a chance to swap out my parts tonight, but will post on here when i am done to confirm it all works, hopefully this weekend,
good luck and let me know if you have more questions
Thanks, I appreciate your time and efforts.
I’ve been running this setup since 2012 and have had zero issues out of it. I’ve replaced the tie rods once, maybe back in 2016. As far as track bar goes I’m running the RE 1660, another good part that’s been in service on my Jeep since 2009. I did happen to find the original documentation that was supplied with my steering, I’ll copy and past it here, it my help someone out...
So does anyone know what happened to serious offroad?
Here’s the original instructions I found in an old email.
Serious Steering
Under the Knuckle (UTK)
Installation Instructions
Step 1.)Remove your existing Tie-Rod and Drag link.
Step 2.)Drill both knuckles and the pitman arm to 7/8" (.875")
Step 3.)Insert tapered inserts into the knuckles.*
Step 4.)Temporarily install the Tie-Rod and measure the gap between the knuckle and
the tie-rod end on both the passenger and driver-side.
Step 5.)Using a sander, rasp, or other abrasives, remove material from the poly spacer
until it is 1/16" to 1/8" thicker than the measurement taken in Step 4.
Step 6.)Place the poly spacer on the tie-rod tapered shafts and install the Tie-Rod onto
the knuckles. Do not tighten the jam-nuts at this time.
Step 7.)Insert the final tapered insert into the pitman arm.
Step 8.)Install the Draglink onto the pitman arm. note that the longer TRE should be
installed on the Pitman arm.
Step 9.)Tighten all castle nuts and install cotter pins.
Step 10.)Install Grease Zerks into all 4 TRE's and add grease until a small amount
of new grease is squeezed out of the boots and from under the poly
spacers.
Step 11.)Set Toe-In to 1/16"-1/8" and tighten the Tie-Rod jam nuts.
***CAUTION***
Failure to perform the following step will result in a loss of turning radius.
Step 12.)Unlock the steering and adjust the draglink to re-center the wheel.
Step 13.)Tighten all jam nuts.
Step 14.)Re-check your work before operating the vehicle.
*In some cases a .003" to .005" shim may need to be wrapped around the insert to keep it from spreading open too far. This can be caused by odd sized drill bits or a drill bit shank that is bent or not centered. These shims can be cut from an inexpensive set of feeler gauges.
Simply wrap the shim around the insert before installing it.
Your Serious Steering Kit uses the following Chevy 1 Ton TRE's:
1 Each ES2027L (Pitman Arm)
2 Each ES2234R (Driverside knuckle and Draglink)
1 Each ES2233L (Passenger Side, re-tapered to match the ES2234R)
Please contact us if you need spares or replacements.
I’ve been running this setup since 2012 and have had zero issues out of it. I’ve replaced the tie rods once, maybe back in 2016. As far as track bar goes I’m running the RE 1660, another good part that’s been in service on my Jeep since 2009. I did happen to find the original documentation that was supplied with my steering, I’ll copy and past it here, it my help someone out...
So does anyone know what happened to serious offroad?
Here’s the original instructions I found in an old email.
Serious Steering
Under the Knuckle (UTK)
Installation Instructions
Step 1.)Remove your existing Tie-Rod and Drag link.
Step 2.)Drill both knuckles and the pitman arm to 7/8" (.875")
Step 3.)Insert tapered inserts into the knuckles.*
Step 4.)Temporarily install the Tie-Rod and measure the gap between the knuckle and
the tie-rod end on both the passenger and driver-side.
Step 5.)Using a sander, rasp, or other abrasives, remove material from the poly spacer
until it is 1/16" to 1/8" thicker than the measurement taken in Step 4.
Step 6.)Place the poly spacer on the tie-rod tapered shafts and install the Tie-Rod onto
the knuckles. Do not tighten the jam-nuts at this time.
Step 7.)Insert the final tapered insert into the pitman arm.
Step 8.)Install the Draglink onto the pitman arm. note that the longer TRE should be
installed on the Pitman arm.
Step 9.)Tighten all castle nuts and install cotter pins.
Step 10.)Install Grease Zerks into all 4 TRE's and add grease until a small amount
of new grease is squeezed out of the boots and from under the poly
spacers.
Step 11.)Set Toe-In to 1/16"-1/8" and tighten the Tie-Rod jam nuts.
***CAUTION***
Failure to perform the following step will result in a loss of turning radius.
Step 12.)Unlock the steering and adjust the draglink to re-center the wheel.
Step 13.)Tighten all jam nuts.
Step 14.)Re-check your work before operating the vehicle.
*In some cases a .003" to .005" shim may need to be wrapped around the insert to keep it from spreading open too far. This can be caused by odd sized drill bits or a drill bit shank that is bent or not centered. These shims can be cut from an inexpensive set of feeler gauges.
Simply wrap the shim around the insert before installing it.
Your Serious Steering Kit uses the following Chevy 1 Ton TRE's:
1 Each ES2027L (Pitman Arm)
2 Each ES2234R (Driverside knuckle and Draglink)
1 Each ES2233L (Passenger Side, re-tapered to match the ES2234R)
Please contact us if you need spares or replacements.
Well it turns out I have a bigger issue the just needing to replace the tie rod. It appears that the threads are gone on one end of the drag link. I can thread the tie rod up into it but I can pull it back out with enough force. Now I need to find a replacement drag link...
oh awesome, what length do you need? i made one that is a bit too long for my use hanging out in the garage. also i am sure you can get a custom drag link made, maybe ruffstuff could make you one? i know their kits are very close to what serious used in his kits.
