98 xj power locks only unlock

the power locks only unlock on my 98 xj. it has been like this for a long while but it has been getting annoying recently. flipping the switch to the left and it unlocks, it does that well but it wont lock on either driver or passenger side. but recently when installing my new overhead console, when plugging in the remote key entry it locked all doors so I don't believe its the relays in the passenger side or any wiring. any help would be appreciated

Do they work normally with the keyfob remote?

Mine wont lock at all using the master switch in the driver door. Keyfob works fine though (albeit acting like a weak battery and only working from 5 feet away)

I’d start by checking for broken/short/grounded wires in the door pass thru boot (common cause of windows not working, door locks not working, etc). Double and triple check all fuses under the hood and in the passenger front footwell panel. Fix any issues found. If not that, start looking at the master switch as the culprit. From my research, they are a known failure point also. I suspect like almost every other switch i’ve encountered, the master switch can be refurb’d DIY. New aftermarket ones are $15 (and another $40 for all new door panel clips*)


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Driver's door master switches are notorious for troubles. Also, the door wiring coming in from the body can get compromised from opening and closing the door over the years. Had to replace the switch and repair the door wiring in mine for complete repair.

"New aftermarket ones are $15 (and another $40 for all new door panel clips*) "


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FYI: I've had some very poor luck with the aftermarket switches, indicator lights are very dim and the driver's window switch did not have the auto-down detent. Better just to repair the OEM switch.

mangot2 said:

"New aftermarket ones are $15 (and another $40 for all new door panel clips*) "


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FYI: I've had some very poor luck with the aftermarket switches, indicator lights are very dim and the driver's window switch did not have the auto-down detent. Better just to repair the OEM switch.[/QUOTE]


I dont disagree. Thats one thing i will commend the engineers on, parts are designed for repair and not replacement. Its really not that hard to pop the assembly apart at the tabs and polish up the contacts, then apply a new dab of dielectric grease at each switch point *

Personally though, half of the indicator lights in my switch dont work anyhow thats the last of my concerns...for $15 though i’d throw a part at it i can use for diagnostic/spare purposes until i get around to the OEM switch


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The switches are also know for cracked solder joints, that can be easily repaired. You can just remelt them and add a touch of new solder with a cheap soldering iron, but it's a better repair to use some solder wick and remove what's there before adding fresh solder.

Don't polish the contacts to the point of wearing through the plating, btw. They tend to fail quickly after that.

I don't have a key fob, the overhead console has the board at the top i got it from the junk yard, plugged it in after doing all the wiring and it just randomly locked. it hasn't done that since though... the fuses are all good and I re-soldered the drivers side before and that fixed it but it started cutting in and out a few weeks afterward. every time i go to the junk yard i would pick up a new passenger side controller thinking the relay would be bad but i got so many I'm starting to think might be another issue. what color is the ground so i can find which wire is the right one to fix.

Always start with the cheap and easy stuff. Clean and lubricate the locking and latching mechanisms. I use throttle body cleaner and a CLP gun oil. CLP stands for Cleaner Lubricant Product, so the oil that penetrates also cleans. WD-40 is neither a cleaner nor a lubricant, it tends to dry to a gummy film that attracts dirt.

Confirm none of the operating rods are bent, or pinched by the door rain shield or the door card.

Inspect the wires inside the rubber boot.