XJ axle swap/build

[SlowXj]

Subscribed for my own info. Pics of the Dana 44 cut and turn please.

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[DocTremp]

D44 cut turn: I am half way through the process and I’ll post the pics that I have so far. Basically I used a cut off wheel and was really careful to cut only the weld on the inner C. When I was sure I had cut all the way through I took an 8 lb hammer and a map torch and hammered them off. Quite a tight fit from the factory.


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[DocTremp]

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[DocTremp]

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[Phil]

Dude don’t sand too much, they are supposed to be a tight fit. Like heat the knuckle up in the oven or grill and put it on the tube at night.

If you are not narrowing, you don’t have to take them off. Just cut the weld and turn on the tube.

[DocTremp]

Originally Posted by Phil

Dude don’t sand too much, they are supposed to be a tight fit. Like heat the knuckle up in the oven or grill and put it on the tube at night.

If you are not narrowing, you don’t have to take them off. Just cut the weld and turn on the tube.

I had to heat them to put them back on, so I think they’re tight enough. I took them off to clean up to the old weld. Thanks for input 👌


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[Anak]

Originally Posted by DocTremp

Rear d44 with zj brake swap

Nice to see a disc swap that looks like it actually has an e-brake. As a fellow AX-15 driver I understand the importance of that detail.

3.07s and 33s sounds painful.

[SlowXj]

My assumption is the C's for so tight alignment isn't an issue? Just make sure the are fully seated (is there a stop?) then check rotation and weld on?

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[DocTremp]

Originally Posted by Anak

Nice to see a disc swap that looks like it actually has an e-brake. As a fellow AX-15 driver I understand the importance of that detail.



3.07s and 33s sounds painful.

Thanks! It works ok, adjusting it is kind of a pain but this parking brake works better than the one I had before.
Yes, 33’s and 3.07s are the worst, but I don’t want to change gears when I’m doing an axle swap.

When you put the C’s back on, you need to make sure that you they go back on the same depth as before. They don’t have any built in taper that would set the depth correctly as far as I know.


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[GordoSmasho]

I commuted for a year with 3.07 and 35s. Its brutal and basically unusable in the rocks. Definitely gear for the road drive ability. But you will need much deeper gearing in the tcase for actual crawling. I have 5.38s and 37s but it was rather hectic crawling with the stock 2.72 and Ax15. I was originally looking for a 5:1 atlas but i ended up with a 10:1 four speed to keep options. It was a new vehicle when i swapped that in.


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[DocTremp]

Originally Posted by GordoSmasho

I commuted for a year with 3.07 and 35s. Its brutal and basically unusable in the rocks. Definitely gear for the road drive ability. But you will need much deeper gearing in the tcase for actual crawling. I have 5.38s and 37s but it was rather hectic crawling with the stock 2.72 and Ax15. I was originally looking for a 5:1 atlas but i ended up with a 10:1 four speed to keep options. It was a new vehicle when i swapped that in.


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Thanks for the input! I was thinking about the transfer case and was looking around for a NP 241O out of a rubicon but they are almost as much as an Atlas. I don’t know if it’s worth looking into a doubler or if it’s less hassle to just put the money into one of those. How are 5.38s on the street with 37s?


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[Phil]

Yeah I wasn’t going to say anything since you wrote it was in progress already, but 4.56s seemed higher than convention for 37s and manual. I had 4.88s, 35s, automatic on green junk and it was not unpleasant on the road.

Maybe a consideration, maybe not with the locking hubs, with an Atlas 2-speed, your front driveshaft will get even shorter. NP241 or Atlas + doubler or Atlas 4-speed, it will stay about the same or maybe get longer.

[DocTremp]

Originally Posted by Phil

Yeah I wasn’t going to say anything since you wrote it was in progress already, but 4.56s seemed higher than convention for 37s and manual. I had 4.88s, 35s, automatic on green junk and it was not unpleasant on the road.

Maybe a consideration, maybe not with the locking hubs, with an Atlas 2-speed, your front driveshaft will get even shorter. NP241 or Atlas + doubler or Atlas 4-speed, it will stay about the same or maybe get longer.

Yeah, I am realizing it may not have been the best decision, but I’ve been driving on 33’s and 3.07s for a while so it can only get better I guess haha.

Thanks for the heads up, I am pretty new to the idea of doublers and atlas’.


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[DocTremp]

Got the front gears done today. Got the rear part way done. Test fit the front truss before I start grinding.


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[DocTremp]

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