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Xj 4.0 overheating

BMfinney,

Your question; How can you tell if it is the head that is prone to cracking? This is a good question and I will offer my viewpoint based on my experience. Typically, cracks are caused by stresses. There are many types of stresses; tensile, compressive, shear and typically in the real world these stresses are relatively low in a head design. The "killer" is thermal stresses in cast iron heads. When exhaust flow is restricted/slowed, the area around the exhaust valves increases in temperature. This causes the local high temperature area to have very,very high thermal expansion. However, the rest of the head is bolted down on the block. So the local very high temperature area expands but this expansion is resisted by the firmly clamped-down head. Result? The thermally induced local stresses exceed the yield strength of cast iron and cracks develop.

What to look for on a head and what to do;
1. Small exhaust valves; increase valve diameter/curtain area and the diameter of head valve seats.
2. Small exhaust runners in the head; open up/port the exhaust runners to increase cross-sectionsl exhaust flow area.
3. Ways to get the hot air out of the Jeep engine bay, i.e. vented hoods, raise rear of hood w/ !" spacer blocks, vent the fenders, wrap headers w/ insulation, etc. Drop engine bay temperatures to reduce thermal head stresses and prevent head cracking.
4. The biggest radiator in the world WILL NOT work if the air flow through the radiator is reduced/slowed by stagnated air not getting out of the engine bay.
5. And spare me the BS that the Jeep XJ cooling systems are adequate. They are not. I've designed thousands of cooling systems for a living. The number of over heating stories on the this website probably ranks XJ over heating as No.1, with poor grounds a close second.

Any way that's my opinion based on my engineering experience. Your experience may vary.

Best regards,

CJR
 
1996 uses 0630 or 7120 head casting.

An 0331 head, TUPY or otherwise, is NOT an upgrade, and will require additional time and parts to install into a 1996.

Find a decent used head, have it inspected for cracks/warping/bad springs, and bolt it on.
 
Well I found one here locally from a guy that has a 0331 head that’s been machined new valves just never used for $200. How can you tell if it is the head that is prone to cracking? Pretty good deal I think

Unless it's a TUPY it's just a giant paper-weight!
 
Okay thanks for the information. Makes sense to me completely especially how small the ports are for the exhaust. I did end up passing on the head and went with a Odessa head it was the cheapest reman I could find and it’s a 0630. The time it will take to port the exhaust runners is minimal and cheap compared to buying a another head and installing it. Which im getting good at pulling a 4.0 head now just a pain in the rear. I figure it won’t hurt.
 
Hey guys was wondering.. which I probably will get some slack for this but. I was thinking about running a hone in the cylinders while the head is off. It’s kinda shiny. Piston at bottom dead center rag in the cylinder bore.
 
Hey guys was wondering.. which I probably will get some slack for this but. I was thinking about running a hone in the cylinders while the head is off. It’s kinda shiny. Piston at bottom dead center rag in the cylinder bore.

I wouldn't even think of doing this, your piston rings may be worn but they are still seated to the surface they started life on !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Guys when you disconnect the radiator hose from the thermostat housing. And start the engine what kind of flow should you be getting? Should it be substantial where it is shooting out? Right now im getting flow it’s just a steady ish stream.. it’s a new pump.
 
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