clayton 3 link cross, diy arms/mount?

[4x4JeePmaNthINg]

figure Ill ask you guys before I find myself in a pickle.


Ive been toying with a long arm for a while and thus far. Im kinda liking the idea of something like the Clayton 3 link crossmember and building my own arms for hopefully saving some coin, and something fun to do.

the speedbump Im curious about is adding a press in johnny joint to the diff mount and building the upper arm to fit this, vs clayton welds a giant 3/8 bracket to everything on the pumkin.

Does anyone have a similar set up and do you think there would be enough separation to clear the driveshaft to use the JJ?

[4x4JeePmaNthINg]

[bajabronco]

I know that with the Clayton kit they move the actual axle mount position over some more toward the center of the pumpkin, maybe that helps with stability? There might also be some concern with all the torque going to that one cast piece on the axle housing.
Out of curiosity, why are you deciding to go with a 3 link vs a 4 link ? Are you doing an engine swap and something interferes with the 4th arm ? Or are you just looking to save $$ and not spend money on the 4th arm? You could always look into just buying the 4 link cross member from someone like Ironman - https://ironman4x4fab.com/ . or the link brackets from Stinkyfab http://www.stinkyfab.com/sfr-jeep-xj...-arm-brackets/ . I am big proponent of the stability that a 4 link provides, both on and off road.

[4x4JeePmaNthINg]

I've talked with a few vendors on 4 links. Truly I would prefer this set up, but many of them have said I might need to modify exhaust to make the 4th link work.

I have the means to weld and cut but I have no way to shape exhaust so its just not for me. saving money is also part of the 3 link thought as far as diy arms. The cast mount also seems like a good bit for strength for a 3 link.

Expense wise I had a mind of what if I built my own cross member, but cost wise it hasnt been cheaper than a pre designed x member. SFR is awesome, but I like other platforms that use more length of the control arms that better level ride geometry. I'm not building a buggy nor draining the bank so Ironman is out hahaha. ultimately this is an effective goal to get away from fixed short arms and maybe to 35s, or at least a bit more lift on 33s, that would all be decided once Im able to adjust the arms.


I cant argue a 4 link is more secure, but I havent read anyone mention stability for 3 links, you have me curious?

[Heavyopp]

I like to build my own stuff too — it rarely saves money if you account for your time

That being said, I bought a 4 link setup from Ironman this summer — at the time I bought it I thought it was overpriced - even at the sale price — add the shipping and it gets even worse

Once I got it in hand I realized what I paid for — the pictures do not do his work justice — beefy is an understatement — the lower arms or “beams” are hard to explain without seeing and holding them

Anyway, I get where you are coming from — design and build to make you feel like your saving money — in the end it’s more about you made something yourself, full custom — problem is we aren’t getting any younger — takes me more time to design and build than I actually get using the stuff I’ve built

You just need to decide where your time is better spent — it’s only money...

[RCP Phx]

Might consider radius arms, I built my first set (on my 2000) about 18yrs ago.

[RCP Phx]

Here's the link.....

[RCP Phx]

One more try.... you might have to type it in.

http://s721.photobucket.com/user/apa...ry/Long%20Arms

[SlowXj]

I run the iro 3 link on my beater Cherokee and it is just as stable on road as my clean stock xj. With that said I only have a 3.5 inch lift. The iro kit does rely on the cast mount and I have had no problems in 2 years. The upper arm does have 2 bends in it to clear the floor at full stuff as well as the pinion yoke.

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[smokeyyank]

Originally Posted by 4x4JeePmaNthINg

I've talked with a few vendors on 4 links. Truly I would prefer this set up, but many of them have said I might need to modify exhaust to make the 4th link work.

I have the means to weld and cut but I have no way to shape exhaust so its just not for me. saving money is also part of the 3 link thought as far as diy arms. The cast mount also seems like a good bit for strength for a 3 link.

Expense wise I had a mind of what if I built my own cross member, but cost wise it hasnt been cheaper than a pre designed x member. SFR is awesome, but I like other platforms that use more length of the control arms that better level ride geometry. I'm not building a buggy nor draining the bank so Ironman is out hahaha. ultimately this is an effective goal to get away from fixed short arms and maybe to 35s, or at least a bit more lift on 33s, that would all be decided once Im able to adjust the arms.


I cant argue a 4 link is more secure, but I havent read anyone mention stability for 3 links, you have me curious?

Really there hasn't been anyone that can truly say 4 link is more stable than 3 link. It really boils down what can you fit, what is your preference but above all how you build it. Each set up will have inherent differences based on what your doing. One of the nice things about a 3 link is that it's easier to mount the links where they'll fit, as opposed to a triangulated 4 link where the position of the mounts provides the amount of triangulation.

[SlowXj]

Purely from a mechanical engineering standpoint, 3 link vs 4 link without triangulation with the addition of a panhard bar shouldn't make a difference. As they would have the same degrees of freedom. This isn't taking into account the very small amount of triangulation on the upper links though... As I don't think that would be enough to add anything to the pot.

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[RCP Phx]

I wanted to add that I thought about removing one upper arm or making it "wristed" but I never found a reason to motivate me to do so.

[4x4JeePmaNthINg]

Is anyone running Clayton longarms?