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Old April 13th, 2015, 17:04
bradleyheathhays bradleyheathhays is offline
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Swping out lock actuators on a '96 XJ

Hopefully I'm not missing something here but just looking at this seems like a fairly simple job. Haven't done this one yet so just wanted to run it past everybody real fast.

My driver door actuator is attached to a L bracket that appears to be riveted to the inside of my door.



From what I can see I need to drill out the rivets, disconnect the actuator from the lock and electrically, remove the bracket and put it on the new actuator, and reinstall with two short bolts where the rivets were.

Any thing I need to know about or steps I've missed?

I'll also be replacing both actuators in the rear doors as well. Any specific advice there?

Thanks
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Old April 14th, 2015, 16:24
bradleyheathhays bradleyheathhays is offline
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Re: Swping out lock actuators on a '96 XJ

A pic of the rivet heads after door card and rubber barrier removed...



Here's a shot of what I'm intending to do with replacing the rivets with small bolts or machine screws...



The actuator is attached to the back side of the L bracket which curves around to the back side and can't be seen in this pic.

Since theres so little clearance between the bracket and the actuator the procedure would be, when everything is apart, to insert the screws (green) into the bracket first then attach the actuator to the other side. Then place the whole assembly inside the door and use the screws placed initially in the bracket to mount everything in the door. There would be no good way to hold on to the head of the screws so I'm hoping they'll just catch when I go to tighten. Probably could use some lock tite as well.
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Old April 14th, 2015, 17:02
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Bryan C. Bryan C. is offline
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Re: Swping out lock actuators on a '96 XJ

I have used nuts and bolts in the past without much issue. Only thing you need to watch is bolt length. I have always run the bolts through the door and used nuts on the inside, kinda tough to get in there but it works. If it were me I would try to find a large 1/4" riveter and beg/borrow/steal it.
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Old September 9th, 2020, 08:21
JAM3RD JAM3RD is offline
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Re: Swping out lock actuators on a '96 XJ

What a "GREAT" write up from (10) ten years ago. My rear passenger actuator has been giving me "ISSUES" for years. I replaced my interior drivers door handle return spring and I'm going to hit the yard and find a working actuator and do this repair. Again, thank you for the great write up with pics....very easy to follow.
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Old September 9th, 2020, 12:07
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Rob Mayercik Rob Mayercik is offline
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Re: Swping out lock actuators on a '96 XJ

What sort of issues? I had my front passenger one seemingly go dead a year or two back, and when I pulled it out to replace, it started working again and has been fine since.

Turned out, its self-resuscitation saved me some money - I'd bought a brand new one to replace it with, and decided to "self-check" the thing before installing (just in case it was DOA). It worked, but something looked off so I hooked up the old one that I'd already pulled out and to my surprise/luck, it started working again. Sure enough, the new one worked "backwards" - when the original pulled in, the new one pushed out. I ended up putting the original back and returning the new one (I let the seller know about its backwardness though, so they could raise it with the manufacturer if they wanted).

All I can think of is that the connector on the thing got dirty when it got submerged in a water-crossing incident, and pulling/reseating the plug during my "aliveness checks" cleaned things back up.

It might be worth unplugging the one in the door, checking/cleaning the contacts, and reconnecting it - if you're lucky, it might be all you need. You can also try running 12V right to the actuator to isolate it from the rest of the "circuit".
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Old September 12th, 2020, 19:29
JAM3RD JAM3RD is offline
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Re: Swping out lock actuators on a '96 XJ

Thank you for the input Rob. Well I just saw your post today....I was working away on the Jeep the day before....I decided to drill out the rivets holding the actuator bracket in place in the door frame and I stopped just short of the no return spot on the rivets. I put the drill down and released the plastic clamp on the actuator. With it disconnected from the door mechanism, I pressed my remote and that actuator looked like new...it pushed ALL THE WAY OUT on its own. SO, my ISSUE was not the actuator but the dust and grit between ALL those components that make up the locking assembly in that door. I cleaned everything up and worked it all by hand by moving the rod to the door lever back and forth until I got it all moving freely. I reconnected the plastic clip on the actuator so it was once again connected to the door locking assembly and it worked fine! To think, I almost drilled out a perfectly good door lock actuator for nothing. I keep thinking that my little rivets looked NOTHING like what was holding it in place now! The key here is: IF YOU'RE HAVING ANY ISSUES WITH THE DOOR LOCK ACTUATORS, CLEAN-CLEAN-CLEAN ALL THE CONTACT POINTS OF THE ENTIRE DOOR LOCK ASSEMBLY BEFORE removing what's believed to be a bad/faulty actuator. I picked up a replacement at the U-PULL-n-PAY, Pittsburgh, PA for $13.95. I'll just keep it in case one REALLY goes out on me. I reassembled the door, something I am proficient at now. I would have been lost years ago but in researching the broken interior door handle return spring on the drivers door, I am very good at where ALL the components go. I was amazed that nobody carries that interior door handle return spring! At first I thought BOTH ends of the door handle PIN, (that holds BOTH the interior door lever AND the manual lock button), were flared out. Mopar's sketch/figure DXJ-130 shows the entire door handle assembly exploded view with all the individual parts listed with part numbers. While at the yard after I pulled the actuator I examined the door handle and saw that ONLY the top of the PIN is flared and the piece pushes out from the bottom of the handle assemble or CUP as it is referenced in the figure/sketch. I got a spring and repaired mine. But just know it's a tight fit getting the door rods back in the handle and the plastic clips over them as it goes on once you place the door panel in place loosely. It's even harder doing the drivers door with the large bezel and all the electrical circuitry in it! Who ever does this must be patient and give yourself the time to be gentle on all the old plastic parts or you'll end up with broken plastic parts. TAKE YOUR TIME and you'll be happy with your results. My return spring is fixed and my passenger rear door lock actuator is working once again. Hey, remove the plastic body plug and lub the mechanism once in a while. You will be amazed what that lubricant will do!
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