97 Power window switch issues

Please let me start out by saying this is not a lock out problem!!! I already tried that fix.

Here is my problem, all the windows work up and down except the passenger side window. It goes down, but not up. It doesn't go up from the driver's or the passenger's side switch, but it will go down from both. I swapped a different passenger side switch with my current one and it still didn't work.

How can I test each part individually without replacing them such as the regulator, driver's switch, etc? I don't want to start searching for a short if one of the parts is bad.

Thanks!!

If it goes up and down with any switch combination, it eliminates the regulator. The most common place to fail is the wires in the rubber tube between the door and the body. You can individually test the switches with an multimeter set to ohms. You have to pop the door panels to do that. Or trace to where the wires go into the grommet from the body and test there. I've used safety pins to probe into the wire insulation to test. If you can get a wiring diagram, you can figure out the right wire colors.

It doesn't go up, only down. It goes down with any switch. Is there a way to run a jumper straight to the regulator to test it?

Hallo. I am afraid that it will be a long search.
I would start with an electric diagram,a DMM with puncture probes and jumpwires. That's the way I did this kind of labour killing problems.
succes.

'92 XJ

Sounds like it's going to be painful.

I also forgot to mention I tried a new regulator on the passenger side along with my current switch and the new switch, so that's not the issue either!

Yes . I would start with the relays. :dunno:

If you are at the regulator, just unplug it and jump (2 wires) the plug backwards between the 2 wires. It seems (almost) certain that it will run the other way.

If your 97 is like my 2000, I see that there are 3 wires coming in to the pass side door switch. 2 run down to the motor, but I am talking about the other 3. Of these other 3, one on it's own connector brings in the 12V. This one must be good if the window works one way. The other 2 wires on the 2 prong connector should check as continuity to ground. One of these two is probably broke somewhere between the pass door switch and the master switch on the drivers side.

I had this same problem with both my passenger front and rear windows on my '99.

Yes you can jump them to go back up. You just run a wire from the battery to the window regulator, and then another one that just grounds to the door. Unplug the wire harness, then touch the wires to the terminals. You will notice there are 3 wires going into the regular: power up, power down, and ground. Test which wire goes where first, by using a volt meter or just a power tester. This will make it go up.

Now, how I fixed mine was I took the driver side paneling apart, unplugged the harnesses, and cleaned them up a little. Well, basically all I did was unplug the wires and plug back in and they worked again.

Edit: I see winterbeater posted right before me. What I was experiencing was when I pressed the button to go back up, both the power wires for up and down where getting power, effectively canceling each other out. Therefore the window wouldn't move. This wouldn't happen when I pressed down, so obviously it would work.

Hallo. Behind the left switch in the drivers door, there are 2 wires you can jump for voltage to test the motor of the powerwindow or it's switch or connections or wires.
TAN wire is the feed for the power window motors and is only hot when ignition key is on.
ORANGE/WHITE is always hot and is for the power locks.
Because of the fact, that the motors do their job. You can say that the grounds are OK.
The BRN/WHITE wire from the right window switch for up ( problem area and is running all the way through the car), you can jumpwire to the 2 above wires TAN or ORANGE/WHITE.
Use needle probes on your jumpwire. :looney:

p.s. no relays for the windows. sorry.

'92 XJ

p.s. I connected the TAN with the ORANGE/WHITE wire. Now I can open and close my windows without the ignition
key.

.

This is not the same problem but I wanted to post this power window fix somewhere.

I recently had a problem on my 97 where the drivers window would go half way and stop. If I slammed the door it would work again. Went wheelin last week and it stopped working completely. Mine has power windows but has a motor and cable setup where it turns the crank handle spline. Ordered some manual crank handles but they were the wrong size so I went back to the motor and tried running it with my battery charger. Noticed some sparks from the back of the motor. It was a bad solder joint on one of the wires. Resoldered reassembled and it works great.