It won't start!

Ok I'm new to the jeep scene but it looked like a whole lot of fun the last time I was out in the desert with my dirt-bike and my buddy brought his jeep.

So I bought a 1988 or 1989 XJ, the guy was not sure, from a charity auction on ebay. I picked the thing up yesterday and drove it home. The battery was dead but we jumped it and it started right up. I threw it in drive and did not have any problems until I filled the gas tank. I was experiencing a sound like a rock was being kicked up under the hood under acceleration. But it didn't do this before I filled the tank, anyway. So it was about a 25 minute drive back to my shop and we fooled around a bit when I got there. When I finally turned it off I immediately tried to start it again and nothing but clicking. So I cleaned up the battery terminals to see if the battery was just having trouble charging because of the corrosion. When I got done doing that I then tried to jump it again and the motor would turn over but it wouldn't start so i got some carb cleaner and sprayed it down the intake and sure enough it fired up just for a second or two.
So what I'm basically asking if there are any inherent problems with the fuel delivery system? I find it odd that it would drive all the way home, 25-30 miles, and then poop out right after that. I looked for a fuel pump relay or fuse but could not find one, anybody know where that might be located.

Natebrod

fuel pump relay is behind the battery under a black cover.

any gas coming out of the shrader valve on the fuel rail. sounds like the fuel pump died or the filter is clogged. filter is on the drivers side frame rail above the rear axle.

I can hear the fuel pump prime when I turn the ignition on but it seems to not pump any fuel when I try to start the engine. I am going to replace all the relays that you mentioned and put a new battery in it. I''ll also look into a new fuel filter.

When the key is in run position, the pump only runs for 3 seconds unless the Power Control Module gets a signal form the CPS. I'm sure you'll learn a lot about the Crank Position Sensor - the most common source of "no run". It also cuts out the ASD relay (Automatic Shutdown) which sends power to the injectors and coil. But the goal here is to test, not replace. If you don't have a multimeter, spend $3 or $4 for one intead of buying relays. The multimeter and the FSM are your best friends, at least after .

winterbeater said:

When the key is in run position, the pump only runs for 3 seconds unless the Power Control Module gets a signal form the CPS. I'm sure you'll learn a lot about the Crank Position Sensor - the most common source of "no run". It also cuts out the ASD relay (Automatic Shutdown) which sends power to the injectors and coil. But the goal here is to test, not replace. If you don't have a multimeter, spend $3 or $4 for one intead of buying relays. The multimeter and the FSM are your best friends, at least after .

Click to expand...

not on a renix. pcm is the ecu and ive never seen an asd relay unless the power latch relay is the same. i do agree that diagnosing is the key to finding problems and just replacing parts is a waste of money and a crap shoot.



nate,

the order from front to back of the relay center is:
oxygen sensor heater relay
fuel pump relay
power latch relay
a/c clutch relay

try www.lunghd.com goto on site tech and look for anything renix. the site even has a download for how the fuel injection/ecu works.

A dead battery takes days to recharge. 400 amp hours / 10 amps an hour = 40 hours.

Give it at least 24 hours on a battery charger - not idling or driving around, which doesn't really work well, as it uses the output to run, not charge (just like a cordless shaver.)

Once you get it charged fully, check the voltage at the battery - should be 12.4 or close. Start it, it should be over 13.8 roughly.

That and a can of fuel injector cleaner should clear it up.

89xj said:

nate,

the order from front to back of the relay center is:
oxygen sensor heater relay
fuel pump relay
power latch relay
a/c clutch relay

try www.lunghd.com goto on site tech and look for anything renix. the site even has a download for how the fuel injection/ecu works.

Click to expand...

Thank you for the help.

I got out my voltmeter and found out that the relays are all good. Thanks for reminding me and saving me some $$.

Christ on a cracker!

Do what TiRod said.

Fully charge battery and load test it, if you don't you are Ping into the wind.

I would recommend just replacing the battery, so then you know its good and can go from there. And if you can upgrade your wiring.

winterbeater said:

When the key is in run position, the pump only runs for 3 seconds unless the Power Control Module gets a signal form the CPS. I'm sure you'll learn a lot about the Crank Position Sensor - the most common source of "no run". It also cuts out the ASD relay (Automatic Shutdown) which sends power to the injectors and coil. But the goal here is to test, not replace. If you don't have a multimeter, spend $3 or $4 for one intead of buying relays. The multimeter and the FSM are your best friends, at least after .

Click to expand...

Crank Pos. Sensor abbrev. is actually CKP. I know CPS is used a lot, but CPS is the cam sensor..

Johnnie, I totally agree that Crank Position Sensor SHOULD be CKP. And CPS SHOULD be Cam Position Sensor. Reality on this forum is that at least 90% of the time CPS IS Crank Position Sensor. I understand this issue completely. That is why with our buddy NATEBROD, a 3 time poster (no insult meant, congratulations on coming here NATEBROD), I also included the full name for the assumed acronyms. Unless this forum comes out with and Official Acronym list, this will not change. Did I miss the official list? If he says CPS and wants Cam Position Sensor, nobody will get it right.

Only takes a couple of min to check the fuel filter, it is on the driverside frame rail..The knocking sounds like no fuel, was she running hot at all?
Plus make sure ALL the GROUNDS are CLEAN, it does help on the renix motors

It WILL start!

Alright here is what i did last night. Replaced the battery same thing no start it will crank but no start. So I pulled the fuel line off the front of the fuel filter and turned the pump on, no fuel running. Pulled the fuel line off of the back of the fuel filter, no fuel. Dropped the tank, the fuel line that goes from the pump to the tank itself has rotted out. I replaced it with some nice steel braided line and then replace some others that look like they might take a dump before too long and replaced everything. Took it down off the lift and primed the pump a couple of times and it started right up. Thank you guys for the help and how quick I got responses.
Nate

That's good news. The biggest news is, that you reported it back.
Now we have learned from it all. thanks and goodluck. :cheers:

Johnnie Walker said:

Crank Pos. Sensor abbrev. is actually CKP. I know CPS is used a lot, but CPS is the cam sensor..

Click to expand...

winterbeater said:

Johnnie, I totally agree that Crank Position Sensor SHOULD be CKP. And CPS SHOULD be Cam Position Sensor. Reality on this forum is that at least 90% of the time CPS IS Crank Position Sensor. I understand this issue completely. That is why with our buddy NATEBROD, a 3 time poster (no insult meant, congratulations on coming here NATEBROD), I also included the full name for the assumed acronyms. Unless this forum comes out with and Official Acronym list, this will not change. Did I miss the official list? If he says CPS and wants Cam Position Sensor, nobody will get it right.

Click to expand...

Johnnie Walker, you are correct sir. My response is crap. In reviewing the FSM for other information, I saw that the Crank Position Sensor is the (CKP). In lieu of some other official forum list, I think the FSM takes precedence. Another question is whether "dizzy" should take precedence over "distributer". LOL