The plastic fuse block itself, and the single, double and triple buss terminals which hold the fuses' blades, have all been discontinued. However, the fuse block is a GM design, and you may find a similar fuse panel, if not the same, out of an older GM or Chevrolet pickup. The buss terminals are also a GM design, called Pack-Con terminals- they are available as female or male. There are two styles, either of which I'm not sure was used in our fuse panels: Pack-Con I and Pack-Con II. They are also available for various sizes of wire, 18-20 AWG, 14-16 AWG or 10-12 AWG for example.
I am having the same problem. Though I've since replaced the clutch master cylinder and hose, the damage has been done. As noted above, the seapage/leakage of the clutch master cylinder corrodes the terminals. In addition to terminal fatigue due to age, the metal deteriorates from the hydraulic fluid and aids in tension loss. Additionally, the terminal's metal surface corrodes from the combined effects of hydraulic fluid and electrical current. Once a terminal's metal finish has corroded, excesive heat builds up from the poor electrical connection and multiplies the effects. Heat combined with poor connections, due to galvanic/coorosive/oxidized surfaces and inadequate terminal tension, lead to eventual failure of the terminal. The heat buildup from the poor connections also cause the plastic block itself to distort, and even melt, which also creates a condition leading to loose terminals, which then adds to the problem.
For me, the choice will be one of the following:
1. Use a replacement fuse block from an XJ with an automatic that is in good condition.
2. Use a replacement fuse block from an older GM or Chevy that matches the XJ design.
3. Replace all my single, double and triple buss terminals with new female Pack-Con terminals.
4. Eliminate the original fuse block, and splice a new fuse panel, such as something offered from Painless Wiring, relocated to a more suitable location.
