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Urgent: No fuel pump

97XJ2

NAXJA Forum User
I have three quarters of a tank of gas, a brand new battery, both my voltage and fuel gauge work, there is no fuel at the fuel rail. I do not hear the pump run when I move key to "run", I just fixed/checked the connections at the fuel tank, would the CPS cause the pump to not run?

Its a 1997 4.0, And I'd like to drive three hours home tomorrow.
 
fuel pump relay.

the cps is not related to fuel pressure.
 
Swapped out relays with the E-fan relay, still nothing.
 
Take a mallet and tap your tank, hitting it, not too hard, and see if the pump comes to life. If it does, its time for a new pump.
 
I'm sure someone will correct me if i'm wrong but don't those still have an ASD relay? I know my 91 and i think my 96 both have one, if it doesn't work then the fuel pump won't run.
 
Go get a handful of new relays and see what happens? And yes it does have an ASD relay

I will add, It started stumbling and died, thankfully in my driveway, and would not refire.
 
Related question... how do fuel pumps die? slowly, all at once, etc?

I have a 97 with 150K and sometimes when I'm accelerating the engine bogs. If I stay on the gas the engine continues to bog, but if I let off the gas and then press the pedal a few seconds later I have the "normal" really good acceleration.

I've hooked up a fuel pressure meter to my fuel rail and it reads 49lbs at idle.

Is this a sign of impending failure?
 
Re: Related question... how do fuel pumps die? slowly, all at once, etc?

I have a 97 with 150K and sometimes when I'm accelerating the engine bogs. If I stay on the gas the engine continues to bog, but if I let off the gas and then press the pedal a few seconds later I have the "normal" really good acceleration.

I've hooked up a fuel pressure meter to my fuel rail and it reads 49lbs at idle.

Is this a sign of impending failure?

Mine has been doing this for years. I suspect the tps but I've never bought a new one because I have a method for getting rid of the problem.

Just tap the throttle all the way down and back up and it resets the tps. When I mean tap, I mean just a quick stab to wide open and back.

Always works for me, and my fuel pressure is in the high 40s as well.
 
Jump a wire from the battery to the pump. You'll know a lot real fast. Seems like 50% chance pump, 50% five other things could be wrong. If the pump works, you can start checking out all the other crap.
 
Nothing with the relays, new pump to come, unless some has any other ideas before it gets ordered tomorrow.

Winterbeater: you have any idea which one is the power feed for the pump back there? or just try the wires.
 
what about the ballast for the fuel pump by the air box, anything loose over there?
 
He's right, no ballast, any other suggestions? Gonna try hardwiring it tomorrow before noon, otherwise I'm going to order a new one.
 
Dark green / white is 12V on my 2000 (not sure on yours). Black is ground. While your running your power lead, check your ground too. You could have power but still not work if you don't have a ground.
 
To further add to what winterbeater posted....
On my 98 the 12V coming from the Fuel Pump Relay D8 is Dark Green/White stripe to connector C100 continuing Dark Green/White stripe to connector C204 on fuel pump connector terminal 1. The ground on Fuel pump connector terminal 6 is Black going to S309 external tap and the to G302 chassis ground.
I would first verify that you have 12V at terminal D8 at the Fuel Pump Relay in the PDC.
There is also a 15A Fuse 21 in the PDC providing the power source which is on relay terminal D2 DarkBlue/Black strip from the fuse block.
 
Ok so hardwired the pump to the battery and nothing, checked power at the relay, good, check power at the plug back at the fuel tank, was only getting about 6 volts, but I'm still thinking pump now. Anybody?
 
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This is confusing because of the 6 volts issue. You have 12 V at the relay, but only 6 at the plug. Is there any chance that the 6V is to the fuel gage part? And you checked that the ground wire (black) is a good ground (no resistance to body with ohmeter).
 
I figured that at closed throttle it would be less than 12V anyway, because at full throttle would be 12V? I ordered the new pump anyway. Anyone know where there might be a "weak point" in the wiring or where there are other plugs in the system?
 
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