Track bar adjusment or TNT control arm adjustment (pictures)

Okay here is the deal. My sway bars, when connected, slam into the springg on the passanger side and the spring on that side is also warped outward.

I measure the visible threads on each of the lower and upper control arms and they are all the same. I do not understand what the deal is here.

I also measure the axel the best I could and it seems to be centered. What else could it be? Frame bent or something? The vehicle has never been in an accident.

RE 5.5" lift TNT LA's RE HD Adj. Track bar with drop bracket.
I would like to get this fixed because I have an off roading trip coming up in a couple weeks and will be towing a trailer. Thanks guys.

Drivers side sway bar clearance from spring. Notice this spring is strait up and down and the sway bar has no issue with the spring.



Drivers side front view of the sway bar. Notice that this picture of the sway bar is tilted to the passenger side.



Now this is the passenger side view of the sway bar hitting into the spring. Also note the spring is bowed outwards



Here is a picture of the front of the passenger side sway bar and note that it looks allot more strait up and down than the drivers side.

Well, unfortunately I can't help you too much with the cause but I do know Rubicon Express sells sway bar relocation brackets (RE9921) which move the sway bar forward and down a little. They're angled but its easy to tell if you install them backwards because your disconnects pretty much wind up inside your springs . We put a pair of these on Jed's rig (jeepboy_90) and he has a TNT LA setup.

mikep said:

Well, unfortunately I can't help you too much with the cause but I do know Rubicon Express sells sway bar relocation brackets (RE9921) which move the sway bar forward and down a little. They're angled but its easy to tell if you install them backwards because your disconnects pretty much wind up inside your springs . We put a pair of these on Jed's rig (jeepboy_90) and he has a TNT LA setup.

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I've seen those, but I do not like how low they make the sway bar become. That would solve the problem of the sway bar hitting the spring, but would not solve the problem that it seems the axel is more forward on the passenger side than the drivers side. Something is jacked up and I can not figure it out and its really annoying. The control arms are NOT EASY to take on an off with the tention of the damn coil springs.

I think I would check a couple of things. First, measure your wheelbase on both sides. You should be close to stock. If you are not, adjust the lower arm accordingly. You are assuming everything is square by having both sides adjusted the same, and it may not be. Secondly, double check the side to side on the front axle. When I did mine, I found a center point behind the rear axle, at the center of the vehicle (below the T case) and the center point of the front axle. I hung plum bobs from them with magnets and adjusted the front axle until all three lined up. Then go get an alignment and have them adjust the caster.
My thought is that you have the axle off center and too much caster on the pass side.

1. Looks like your axle is to far to the drivers side.
2. If you dont want to get the RE sway bar relocation brackets you can either take off the sway bar, which Im betting you dont want to do, or you can cut and drill the sway bar back to where you want it.
Why do you not want to get the relocation brackets? Do they really lower it so far that you might hit it?
3. Not sure why you are adjusting the arms to mess with the sway bar. You need to get it so that your wheelbase is back to stock, or where ever you want it, and then adjust the swaybar later. The arms arnt adjustable so you wont hit your swaybar.
4. Also, because you are towing, you might want to get an alignment.

your swaybar links are too short.

You need the longer JKS links for the 4-6" lift or whatever.

the sway bar isnt designed to be at a right angle with the links as yours is... it should slope up (from the front of the vehicle to the back)

[FONT=&quot]I had the same problem with my O1 XJ with a 4" lift. It doesn't seem to cause any real damage but sure sounds bad.
Fixed it using a die grinder. I extended the adjustment slots in the frame sway bar mounts so the bar can be pushed forward as far as possible.
Did the same the same to the slot, at the end of the sway bar, where the JKS bracket attaches to it, moving JKS bracket slightly forward.
I did not take enough metal away to weaken things but was enough to give clearance needed.[/FONT]

Starboard M said:

Why do you not want to get the relocation brackets? Do they really lower it so far that you might hit it?

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He has TNT y-link Longarms, no need for RE Drop brackets.

Chris

ckh550 said:

He has TNT y-link Longarms, no need for RE Drop brackets.

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Sway bar drop brackets, not control arm drop brackets.

Mambeu said:

Sway bar drop brackets, not control arm drop brackets.

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Ah, you are correct sir.

I have some sway bar drop brackets, if you are interested PM me, I don't need them now.

xj-shark said:

I have some sway bar drop brackets, if you are interested PM me, I don't need them now.

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What does sway bar drop brackets look like?

Nice. Show us the pic with it mounted.

CherokeeXJ1996 said:

Nice. Show us the pic with it mounted.

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it's not a hard concept. they're spacers that drop the swaybar mounting surface.

XJ_ranger said:

your swaybar links are too short.

You need the longer JKS links for the 4-6" lift or whatever.

the sway bar isnt designed to be at a right angle with the links as yours is... it should slope up (from the front of the vehicle to the back)

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This is the answer....either adjust the sway links to make them longer or get longer ones if you are already maxed out. The other option as already posted is to drop where the sway bar mounts to the frame.

JasonCherokee said:

This is the answer....either adjust the sway links to make them longer or get longer ones if you are already maxed out. The other option as already posted is to drop where the sway bar mounts to the frame.

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No I don't think that is it because the drivers side does not hit. I think it has to do with the adjustable control arms not being set right. I need to measure the wheel base and check the caster and have it all aligned after that.

I had the same problem on mine. UNTILL..........

We shortened the sway bar.

I took our bench grinder and ground down the metal to the same thickness as the mount itself. I then cut off the old mount hole and drilled a new one. I shortehed it 1" on both sides. Now it has a TON of clearence, it looks stock, and i dod not have to buy new hardware. My Friend Brett came up with the idea. ITS A GOOD THING....

fdsa487 said:

No I don't think that is it because the drivers side does not hit. I think it has to do with the adjustable control arms not being set right. I need to measure the wheel base and check the caster and have it all aligned after that.

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no, you are wrong.

your swaybar isnt aligned properly...

fix it and then tell me that I am wrong...

XJ_ranger said:

no, you are wrong.

your swaybar isnt aligned properly...

fix it and then tell me that I am wrong...

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How would the sway bar not be aligned? Its bolted in the stock location.

The spring on the passanger side (the side the sway bar hits) is bowed outward and the drivers side is not and the sway bar does not hit on that side.

I'll measure it tonight to make sure though.