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How to fix slow power locks?

heyjpark1

heyjpark1

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Oakesdale, WA
When I hit the lock button on my 89, the drivers door lock only "locks" half-way and the other three doors seem to barely make it. Its like there just isn't enough power to lock the doors. I know its not a battery issue, so I'm wondering if there is a mechanism that needs to be lubed or what...
 
heyjpark1 said:
When I hit the lock button on my 89, the drivers door lock only "locks" half-way and the other three doors seem to barely make it. Its like there just isn't enough power to lock the doors. I know its not a battery issue, so I'm wondering if there is a mechanism that needs to be lubed or what...
Click to expand...

could be a combination of the 2, loss of voltage at the actuators and the actuators/linkage needs to be lubed.

pull off the door panels and test the curcuit for voltage and lube where nessesary.
 
Do they lock better with the engine running?

Due to the age, the door lock circuits can have too much internal resistance causing too little voltage at the lock solenoids to operate properly. If you do some searching, you'll find a way to improve the voltages at the locks using a pair of relays.

You can also remove the door panels and clean, then re-lube then lock mechanisms.

I also had some corrosion on the connectors to the door lock switches I had to clean.
 
Yes, they work better with the engine running. I knew the increased voltage from the alternator mean I either needed to do some lubing or replace some wiring.

Using the button on the passenger side doesn't make a difference.
 
I had problem with doorlacks too weak to work on my 88.

Easy fix:

Pull all lock switches
Pick them apart. (really easy. no small parts that will jump at you or anything)
Inside every switch, there's a bent copper/brass "plate".

I used a small file to "rinse" the copper plates. They were badly oxidised. Some of them I also used a tiny hammer and anvil on to strighten out the contact points, as grooves had appared there. Then I regulated the amount of bend to give a little firmer contact on the contact points.

Put everything back together.


I did this, and my doorlocks are working just perfectly now! even in cold weather!
 
xj88kjetil said:
I had problem with doorlacks too weak to work on my 88.

Easy fix:

Pull all lock switches
Pick them apart. (really easy. no small parts that will jump at you or anything)
Inside every switch, there's a bent copper/brass "plate".

I used a small file to "rinse" the copper plates. They were badly oxidised. Some of them I also used a tiny hammer and anvil on to strighten out the contact points, as grooves had appared there. Then I regulated the amount of bend to give a little firmer contact on the contact points.


Put everything back together.


I did this, and my doorlocks are working just perfectly now! even in cold weather!
Click to expand...

Thanks! It seems to me that this is the problem all along, and that maybe the "Greg Smith" fix is just throwing more voltage at the problem?
 
heyjpark1 said:
Thanks! It seems to me that this is the problem all along, and that maybe the "Greg Smith" fix is just throwing more voltage at the problem?
Click to expand...

Careful, there. That's close to sacrilege.

IIRC, the later model XJ's do not have this problem because they are wired...wait for it...like Greg Smith's fix.

Nevertheless, that's a really good idea to get rid of the corrosion, if that's the problem. Just a little more work. I just hate tearing into door panels.

Be aware that there are many who have cleaned their contacts, only to have the problem reappear. I think there is still a fundamental voltage drop issue with the OEM wiring on the '87-'90s.
 
I'll have to read up on this greg smith fix, but in the past I've lubed up my 96's to get them working again. When I got it, only 1 out of 4 locked/unlocked successfully with the switches.

Also, when you push the actual buttons by hand, you'll notice more or less resistance which could let you know if lubing them will help.

Since the cold weather has started to hit, the back locks are not working that great so I'll prob be tearing those open soon.

Edit: I see the fix is for pre 90 xjs. I know the OP has an 89, but the lube idea still might help.
 
gba88 said:
I'll have to read up on this greg smith fix, but in the past I've lubed up my 96's to get them working again. When I got it, only 1 out of 4 locked/unlocked successfully with the switches.

Also, when you push the actual buttons by hand, you'll notice more or less resistance which could let you know if lubing them will help.

Since the cold weather has started to hit, the back locks are not working that great so I'll prob be tearing those open soon.

Edit: I see the fix is for pre 90 xjs. I know the OP has an 89, but the lube idea still might help.
Click to expand...

As a matter of fact, the locks are very tough to work manually, too. Maybe I need the Greg Smith fix and some cleaning and lube
 
heyjpark1 said:
As a matter of fact, the locks are very tough to work manually, too. Maybe I need the Greg Smith fix and some cleaning and lube
Click to expand...

Yeah, sounds like maybe you need both :) Granted, the locks are never going to feel like some other vehicles where they VERY FREELY lock/unlock, but after I lubed mine, there was a huge difference and they were then free enough to be actuated by the electronics.
 
With the GS fix, the power from the switches will only be used to work two relays, which does not require much power. It IS a good fix, except that you get some more wires and relays in your car.

I actually did the GS-fix, but then one saturday evening one of the new relays stopped working, and instead of replacing it, I decided to try working on the switches... making the GS-fix obsolete.. so I went back to original.
 
Interesting. The rear locks on my 92 never work when its cold out. Whether I use the door switch or the keyless remote. I guess I should start by lubing them. The lock button is hard to press to. I originally thought the actuators were binding up.
 
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