8.25 regear guide

anyone have a write up on this? super duper detailed..

Hm. I see two problems jumping out at me here...

1) Got FSM? That's about as detailed as you can get, without having one written up specifically for you. It will also tell you what tools you need for work and for measurement.

2) If you need "super duper detailed" instructions, you may be better off buying a slab and having someone come over to help you. Setting up gears is involved and requires a good deal of precision - or you'll wreck them before they're broken in. You'll probably be better off having someone show you than doing it from written instructions - that's how I'd learned 'way back when...

I don't know your skill level. I could be wrong, but the way you phrased your question tells me you should probably have more help than written instructions. You may just not be ready (read: skilled/practised enough) to handle a re-gear job. There aren't many parts, but you'd damned well better get them all in the right places! Work on something simpler - build an engine first, if you can.

I'm also curious if any one has any info on installing gears. I'm not a pro yet but I reseach everything for months or years before I do anything to my jeep. I tried looking for info and didn't come up with much. A write up or guide would at least let me know whats involved.

Mutant_Xj said:

I'm also curious if any one has any info on installing gears. I'm not a pro yet but I reseach everything for months or years before I do anything to my jeep. I tried looking for info and didn't come up with much. A write up or guide would at least let me know whats involved.

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Get an FSM (Factory Service Manual) - they're better for things like this than any Chilton's or Haynes.

It's also possible to download a service manual from the Dana site (www.dana.com) - the specs will be for their axles, but the procedures are generally the same. The key difference that would occur is if you have a Third Member axle (like the Ford 8", Ford 9", some Chrysler axles, and some Toyota axles.) Third members are actually a bit easier - since you don't have the whole wretched housing up on the bench (just the guts of the punkin'.)

It's good to research jobs like this - but it's even better to have someone who has done a few show you how to do it before you try to do it yourself. It's a reasonably simple process, but it's painfully easy to screw up (and it's painful if/when you do screw it up - what do gears and bearings cost these days? Wreck the gears, you usually wreck all the bearings as well, since metal particles go everywhere.)

Here's a write up I did on C8.25
http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=915011

I tend to agree with 5-90, get someone who's done them before to help if you can. There's still alot of little things that have to be done right and at the right time that don't show up in my write up or in a FSM, and then there's the tools needed!

i too am looking at doing my own gears (with a buddy who has done several successful setups) and i just read 87xjco's write up (good job, by the way) and i am curious to know if there's another way to tighten the adjuster nuts.

if not, approximately how long was the shaft of the tool you made, and what size is the nut? so that when i get to this step, i can simply use the tool, rather than have to make it on the spot.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20239&highlight=gear+install

Make two of the adjuster tools, you'll thank me later.

FrankZ, i read that entire thread several times and i see mention of 2 tools, but i don't see mention of where they get used at the same time, therefore eliminating the need for 2...? the trick about a D30 hub nut is good to know though.

i thought i'd been doing my homework pretty well as far as gear installs but i'm confused now. are the adjuster nuts in place of shims that most axles use?

When making adjustments to the 8.25 you'll find yourself moving the tool from one side to the other frequently, especially if you've never done one before. Having a tool in each adjuster really speeds up the process.

Yes the adjuster nuts are used instead of shims.

Frank Z said:

When making adjustments to the 8.25 you'll find yourself moving the tool from one side to the other frequently, especially if you've never done one before. Having a tool in each adjuster really speeds up the process.

Yes the adjuster nuts are used instead of shims.

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i thought of that, but wasn't sure if it was the case. i suppose if i'm making 1, another is only another 10 mins work, tops. thanks for the tips, FrankZ

Well Ill probobly end up just paying someone $500 for the gearing, guess Im gonna have to spend a bunch of money on gears and master install kit plus tools and time off to do it anyway, so im really not saving that much. Anyone know axle strenght of a 8.25/29 if i put it on 35s and install a track lock? Can i install a track lock myself? I know based on hte ratings its rated at 35s open 33s locked but what about a lsd....

emr1101 said:

Well Ill probobly end up just paying someone $500 for the gearing, guess Im gonna have to spend a bunch of money on gears and master install kit plus tools and time off to do it anyway, so im really not saving that much. Anyone know axle strenght of a 8.25/29 if i put it on 35s and install a track lock? Can i install a track lock myself? I know based on hte ratings its rated at 35s open 33s locked but what about a lsd....

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lock it or don't lock it. don't half lock it. you'll go farther on 33's locked than you will with 35's and open.

whats wrogn with an LSD? Im just saying for now if i do that, can i instlal it myself?

yeah you could do it yourself. there's nothing wrong with it. it's just that they inherently wear out. just MHO

A friend of mine(dealership mec. - lucky him) slapped an Eaton LDS in mine a couple years ago. He had the factory tools(2 adjuster shafts) It took him about 45 min. As many times as he walked back and forth (side to side?) I'd say make 2 tools.

PS 'really like the Eaton.