ARB Bumper repair and mods

The ARB bumper is pretty cool, but not indestructible. Mine survived a hit from a Ford F-350 dually, which totalled the XJ it was attached to.

Even though this is the late-model XJ bumper, it still requires trimming to fit my trimmed fenders.

Design issues: First, while the bumper is very solid, and ARB probably had a good reason for the design, I don't think five bolts per side is sufficient to attach the bumper to the uniframe.

Second, there really is no good recovery points on the bumper. Yes, there are holes in which shackles can be attached, but they are only about 1/4" thick and are designed for use with a Hi-Lift jack.

Here's what we are doing to repair and beef up the bumper:


Here is the entire bumper, thus far in the build.


The end of the bumper took most of the impact of the F-350. It dented the metal, leaving a small tear. We cut out the stretched metal, reshaped it, and welded it back in. We will grind it smooth before painting.


Here is a close up of the center portion of the new shackle mounts.


Here are two of the angle iron sides that will sandwich the center part of the shackle mount. They will be welded together and will provide a 3/4" thick mount, tied directly to the "frame" rails for a straight pull on the rails.


Here is one of the new end caps. Trimming off two or three inches from the bumper ends leaves them open. Welding in new caps should provide a nice strong boxing effect.


Here's the money shot. A set of extended bumper mounts, from member Ukraine Train, made from 1/4" steel, providing seven bolt holes per side (plus the two bottom holes in the ARB) for a total of nine grade 8 bolts per side--this puppy is staying put!

The mounts will augment the C-ROK plate on the driver's side frame rail, and will help reinforce the passenger's side as well.

How much for a set of extended bumper mounts

C85D4x4 said:

How much for a set of extended bumper mounts

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http://www.naxja.org/forum/showpost.php?p=243703908&postcount=22

Awesome work -
One question though:
If the Jeep failed before the stock bumper, why not just add recovery points and call it a day?

yossarian19 said:

Awesome work -
One question though:
If the Jeep failed before the stock bumper, why not just add recovery points and call it a day?

Click to expand...

Well, it did tweak the stock mounts, plus, I wanted to reinforce the inside of the PS box and passenger side frame rail. Also, I didn't think recovery points simply welded to the front bumper material would be strong enough. I'm a firm believer in overkill

FitchVA said:

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showpost.php?p=243703908&postcount=22

Click to expand...

Thanks Fitch

FitchVA said:

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showpost.php?p=243703908&postcount=22

Click to expand...

Do those bolt right up to both styles of ARB bumpers?

Thanks,
Nick

NickThePyro said:

Do those bolt right up to both styles of ARB bumpers?

Thanks,
Nick

Click to expand...

They sure should--the first three bolts go into holes in the "frame". When we actually mount the bumper, those bolts will be through the ARB mount, the extended mount, and into the "frame". The ARB has two lower mounting holes that go into ARB-produced mini nutcerts that go into the frame. I will also be using those for additional support.

ha, u almost stole my idea! i bought the same brackets from ukraine train and will be using them on my ARB bumper. But my bumper is extended forward 4 inches...

_MURDERED OUT_ said:

ha, u almost stole my idea! i bought the same brackets from ukraine train and will be using them on my ARB bumper. But my bumper is extended forward 4 inches...

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Ha ha--good minds think alike, I guess ;-)

Just out of curiosity, what's the deal with extending the bumper out four inches?

C85D4x4 said:

Thanks Fitch

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:thumbup:

I like your unibody brackets! They look awesome.

While I always thought the D ring tabs looked a bit stout, I was never aware they were intended for use with a Hi-Lift.

I assume they want you to use a D ring and a chain attached to the hi lift?

Although I've seen people yank on those small tabs, I'm a bit surprised ARB doesn't make em beefier for what the price of the bumpers go for.

Blaine B. said:

I like your unibody brackets! They look awesome.

While I always thought the D ring tabs looked a bit stout, I was never aware they were intended for use with a Hi-Lift.

I assume they want you to use a D ring and a chain attached to the hi lift?

Although I've seen people yank on those small tabs, I'm a bit surprised ARB doesn't make em beefier for what the price of the bumpers go for.

Click to expand...

While I'm sure you could use a D ring and chain, ARB actually makes a special adaper:



I know folks have used the D ring tabs for recovery, but they are only two layers of the bumper metal sandwiched together--1/4" thick at most. Perhaps I'm wrong, but I don't think they would survive much of a side pull intact.

I was thinking that too - that they wouldn't do well in a side pull... But if you've got a winch and wern't using it, couldn't you use the winch hook as the attachment point?

I got a bumper reinforcement kit from Terry @ Rigidco - two side plates that sandwich the stock ARB plates and extend further back, and a center plate that completely covers the front cross-member. I needed the center plate as I dented my cross member a bit when I hit a rock/stump under the snow and tweaked it. I didn't use the drivers side plate as I already had a C-Rok plate, and didn't want to undo it or the bolts again.

xj-boonie said:

I was thinking that too - that they wouldn't do well in a side pull... But if you've got a winch and wern't using it, couldn't you use the winch hook as the attachment point?

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Well, that thought crossed my mind as well. In talking to my more mechanically inclined buddy/mechanic, he highly recommended not taking that course of action. I can't remember the exact details of the conversation, but something about the winch possibly being damaged by a sharp pull/snatch on the cable when it is "parked".

MMM, all of these unknown accessories! Nifty.

Update:

The mounts have been burned on--would anyone have qualms about using these for recovery?


Nickle thick!


Another view--it will take a few minutes leaning on a hole saw to get some 7/8th holes in these for the shackles. Oh, and I'll probably radius the corners for a nicer look before painting them.


The finished product. I'll make another thread about fitting a Ramsey winch into the ARB bumper.

Pics of backside?

mecompco said:

Update:

The mounts have been burned on--would anyone have qualms about using these for recovery?

Nickle thick!

Another view--it will take a few minutes leaning on a hole saw to get some 7/8th holes in these for the shackles. Oh, and I'll probably radius the corners for a nicer look before painting them.

The finished product. I'll make another thread about fitting a Ramsey winch into the ARB bumper.

Click to expand...

Not knocking your design, just asking the question.... Could you have cut a "slit" and stuck the Iron through the backside? Then most of your welds would have been on the backside, and it would have made it a bit stronger, and perhaps a bit better looking. I'm only speculating, because I don't remember where the supports are in the back of the bumper.

I have thought about doing this... But since I have a winch, I really don't use the tabs for any serious pulls. Maybe a "bump" in the snow, or in a H.C. situation.

Not saying anything negative, just asking the question...

We actually discussed doing extactly that. The problem is that the stock mounts are right there, and are an integral part of the bumper. I'll take a picture of the back showing this. Basically the extended mount is right up against, and now welded to, the stock mount--the bolts will go through both the extended and the stock mounts. Also, for a side pull, the stock mount is directly behind outter angle iron for extra backing.

The back side of the extended mount is also welded to the back face of the bumper. So, 1/4" steel straight through, then another 1/2 of angle iron on each side. We used a 400 amp welder at my buddies work (railroad--every tool they have is super HD) for good penetration.