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water pump question

J

JeepinMass

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Western Mass
So i'm changing my water pump right now. It's pitch black and 30 degrees out lol. The old water pump is out and i'm about to put the new pump in. My question is do I need any type of thread sealer on the thread on the hose that goes into the water pump from the heater. I only ask because it looks like there is some on when I took it off. It could just be grease and grime but I figure i'd ask before I put it back together. I don't believe there should be any sealant because it would get into the antifreeze and cause all sorts of havoc.
 
Last time I did one of those, I used Permatex gasket sealer, and it was fine. Make sure when you do this that the threads on the pipe are clean. It tends to seize and take some aluminum with it when you take it out, and if you don't clean up the threads, you'll strip out the new water pump. My son did this on his 96 and had to eat a new pump!
 
Any RTV or Teflon paste will work (I prefer the latter.)

If you need a new nipple, you can get a short 3/8" pipe nipple, and just cut off one end right after the threads. Smear a little RTV over the pipe, put the hose on, and clamp it. Problem solved (use brass - it won't rust or corrode as much.)

I'd suggest replacing the nipple anyhow - as mentioned, it can seize on and strip aluminum threads, and pipe threads usually have to be cleaned manually (because of the taper.) That means using a pick.
 
thanks for the help I just finished up the now. Had to stop last night since it was 12am 20degrees and snowing out. I got cold. It took me 3x longer then it should have because i was a stubborn bastard and refused to remove things until I had to.
 
You don't need to remove too much to do the job - although there is one screw for the pump that can be sticky to get out. I don't recall which, but I usually end up pulling that screw out and taking it over to the grinder - grind one flat down a bit more (making it more or less a "five-sided hex head") and it will slip in and out next time. Problem solved.b
 
JeepinMass said:
thanks for the help I just finished up the now. Had to stop last night since it was 12am 20degrees and snowing out. I got cold. It took me 3x longer then it should have because i was a stubborn bastard and refused to remove things until I had to.
Click to expand...

You're singing to the choir. I just did mine...what a nightmare.

1. Remove Grill
2. Drain Radiator
3. Drain Engine Coolant
4. Remove fan shroud, and electric fan
5. Remove serpentine belt
6. Reinstall serpantine belt :bawl:
7. Remember to Loosen water pump pulley bolts before removing the serpantine belt
8. Remove serpentine belt
9. After thinking you drained the coolant, remove radiator hose and drain the other gallon that was hiding like a ninja onto your driveway. :flamemad:
10. Try and manuver the water pump around the power steering bracket for 30 mins.
11. Give up and remove the power steering unit and bracket.
12. Try and manuver the heater pipe around the idler pulley for 30 mins.
13. Give up and go to autozone to buy a 15mm wrench for the idler pulley.
14. Take the old pump to a auto mechanic to remove the rusted and fused heater pipe off of the pump.
15. Completely forget to label all the bolts and their repective holes.
16. To re-assemble, follow in reverse order while you have two mechanically inept friends tell you to put that thingy in that dodad and start that b**ch up.
 
EASportsRacer13 said:
You're singing to the choir. I just did mine...what a nightmare.

1. Remove Grill
2. Drain Radiator
3. Drain Engine Coolant
4. Remove fan shroud, and electric fan
5. Remove serpentine belt
6. Reinstall serpantine belt :bawl:
7. Remember to Loosen water pump pulley bolts before removing the serpantine belt
8. Remove serpentine belt
9. After thinking you drained the coolant, remove radiator hose and drain the other gallon that was hiding like a ninja onto your driveway. :flamemad:
10. Try and manuver the water pump around the power steering bracket for 30 mins.
11. Give up and remove the power steering unit and bracket.
12. Try and manuver the heater pipe around the idler pulley for 30 mins.
13. Give up and go to autozone to buy a 15mm wrench for the idler pulley.
14. Take the old pump to a auto mechanic to remove the rusted and fused heater pipe off of the pump.
15. Completely forget to label all the bolts and their repective holes.
16. To re-assemble, follow in reverse order while you have two mechanically inept friends tell you to put that thingy in that dodad and start that b**ch up.
Click to expand...

well that certainly was worse then mine. I tried to snake the hardline through the idler pully and the thermostate....didn't work. So i took the thermostate off and changed that while I was at it. The biggest PITA for me was the back bolts on the steering pump. I didn't know my arm+wrist could contort to those positions to get that in.
 
JeepinMass said:
well that certainly was worse then mine. I tried to snake the hardline through the idler pully and the thermostate....didn't work. So i took the thermostate off and changed that while I was at it. The biggest PITA for me was the back bolts on the steering pump. I didn't know my arm+wrist could contort to those positions to get that in.
Click to expand...

I didnt bother with the thermostat because I just changed it. I was also surprised that my arms could bend to get to that back bolt. Oh I forgot, I also broke the little fuel line that ran from the fuel pressure sensor regulator and the manifold. It was as brittle as balsa wood.
 
EASportsRacer13 said:
I didnt bother with the thermostat because I just changed it. I was also surprised that my arms could bend to get to that back bolt. Oh I forgot, I also broke the little fuel line that ran from the fuel pressure sensor regulator and the manifold. It was as brittle as balsa wood.
Click to expand...

If it was the small line on the side away from the head, going to the manifold, it wasn't a "fuel" line - it's a vacuum line. It can be replaced with rubber vacuum hose (and that's preferred. As you've discovered, the Nylon lines will embrittle over time.)
 
5-90 said:
If it was the small line on the side away from the head, going to the manifold, it wasn't a "fuel" line - it's a vacuum line. It can be replaced with rubber vacuum hose (and that's preferred. As you've discovered, the Nylon lines will embrittle over time.)
Click to expand...

Yeah I replaced it with a rubber one and tow little plastic fittings. Whatever it was, I figured it was important. There arent a whole lot of un-important things in an engine. Especially things that snap off.
 
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