Extreme Newbie Question

:dunno:


ok...this is embarrassing....but like I said...I am an extreme newbie.

I want to lubricate the steering linkage...I know what the steering linkage is, I've got the right lube, I have a grease gun...so what the heck do I do?

How much grease?
Do I have to disassemble the parts first?

It is so basic that I can't find and answer for it.


ps. I will pay up and become an official member this evening...i promise.

Look for the zerk fittings....or grease "nipples". They will be on your ball joint type joints. Just look for them on all your front end components. Stick the gun on there and fill them till you see the rubber cap thingy (i'm using newbie terms here) starts to buldge out a little. Don't fill them too much to where the grease begins to come out b/c then you have "broken the seal". You don't have to disassemble anything.

frankart3@hotmail said:

:dunno:


ok...this is embarrassing....but like I said...I am an extreme newbie.

I want to lubricate the steering linkage...I know what the steering linkage is, I've got the right lube, I have a grease gun...so what the heck do I do?

How much grease?
Do I have to disassemble the parts first?

It is so basic that I can't find and answer for it.


ps. I will pay up and become an official member this evening...i promise.

Click to expand...

I've seen worse...

You see those little nipples on the side or back of the part? That's where the fitting for the grease gun goes. You'll feel and maybe hear a slight "click" when it's fully seated. (They're called "zerks", by the by. consider yourself edified...)

As far as how much, you'll see grease start to ooze out from under the boot when the joint/part is full. Note this grease - and, if it's been a while, rub a bit between your fingers. If it feels gritty, you can flush the joint out by continuing to pump grease (slowly!) into the joint until the stuff that comes out is clear. I usually use red moly chassis grease - not only can I tell when I've flushed the old stuff out, but the bright red colour makes it easier to spot contamination.

If you have a habit of driving through deep water, keep a small grease gun in your rig - so you can flush out the joints. Also, you may find it better to use a lithium-based EP grease, since it's more water-resistant (it's the stuff used on boat trailer wheel bearings.)

Pump slowly! If you go too fast, you'll blow out a boot and have to replace it. If you go slowly, you'll ooze grease out from under the boot anyhow, but you won't disturb the seal anywhere near as much (and you'll just wipe off the excess grease with a rag when you're done.)

[Forgot - no, you don't have to disassemble anything first. Might as well get your ball joints while you're down there - top and bottom of the steering knuckles. And all seven of the universal joints, but you'll need an adapter for the Double Cardan on the front driveshaft and a "long-reach" adapter for the zerks on the front wheel joints... -Ed.]

sweet!


I'm on it!

You had to show me up didn't you 5-90.....

:looser:.....ha ha...just kidding. :wave:

Does your grease gun's hose have the fitting on the end?

Anyway there should be 7 zerks you should grease.

Left and right upper ball joints, left and right tie rod ends, the front driveshaft slip yoke, the upper drag link end, and the track bar.

You can do the other end of the drag link and track bar as well as the lower ball joints, but it would require removal of some items to insert zerk fittings. Those 4 other items do not have zerks installed because there is no room to have a zerk in nor get a greasegun to them when they are on the vehicle....

But those are the primary grease points what I listed.

Additional grease points could be greasable shackles, aftermarket swaybars, or a rear drive shaft slip yoke if you have a slip yoke eliminator on the transfer case. The list could go on when aftermarket parts are added.

Good luck!

BruceB83 said:

You had to show me up didn't you 5-90.....

:looser:.....ha ha...just kidding. :wave:

Click to expand...

I think we hit "commit" at about the same time - I didn't see your reply when I started mine. Oops...

Blaine - thanks. I'd forgotten about the slip yoke zerk.

Ha ha....it's cool...I was just messing with ya. You can just owe me a cold one when we meet...(I remember that I owe you one for something...can't remember what...but I'm sure it had to do with some really long detailed and educating explanantion you gave me to a simple question...lol)

...

BruceB83 said:

Ha ha....it's cool...I was just messing with ya. You can just owe me a cold one when we meet...(I remember that I owe you one for something...can't remember what...but I'm sure it had to do with some really long detailed and educating explanantion you gave me to a simple question...lol)

Click to expand...

Probably. I typically consult with Captain Morgan - he's been my staff psychologist for quite some time...

I always thought that the upper and lower balljoints should only be greased until the rubber cap is "bulging" slightly and firm to the touch, not until grease is coming out? This is according to my Haynes manual..but I usually trust 5-90 more than the manual!

clunk said:

I always thought that the upper and lower balljoints should only be greased until the rubber cap is "bulging" slightly and firm to the touch, not until grease is coming out? This is according to my Haynes manual..but I usually trust 5-90 more than the manual!

Click to expand...

I've always gone until I got grease out from the boot - but I also pump the grease gun very slowly (I feel better with the joint flushed out.)

That's the trick, tho, pump slowly!

5-90 said:

I've always gone until I got grease out from the boot - but I also pump the grease gun very slowly (I feel better with the joint flushed out.)

That's the trick, tho, pump slowly!

Click to expand...

Most of those boots are designed to allow grease out without damage, so I usually also pump until fresh grease appears. Once upon a time that was the accepted way of doing it, though I'll admit I haven't checked current rules.