over cooling of engine

I had a problem with my heat blowing cold air so i flushed the rad and heater core and did a thermostat and gasket. now the heat works but it doesnt blow that cold and now the car run cooler than it did b4, it used to be right around the 210 mark and now its a full bar b4 the 210 bar so im wondering what can it be that would cause that? also are there any vents to clean out that might cause the heat to blow warm, not hot?
thanks
Jhery

Mine seems to do the same thing, it runs at about 170-180 during the winter months. maybe our gauges are just wacky

Will it eventually get up to temp if you let it sit and idle for a while? Maybe your new t-stat is stuck open. Or you may just have an air bubble in your cooling system.

if i turn the heat off the temp will climb to at most half way between the 210 bar and the 1 b4 it, what would b the best way to burp the system?

park up hill and remove your radiator cap and run the engine for a good while, this should burp it assuming you have a closed system. If you have an open system it should be self burping.

Did the thermostat you put in have the bleed hole and did you put that bleed hole straight up in the 12 O'clock position ? If not you probably have air in there.
The only other thing I can think of that would cause over cooling would be a stuck mechanical fan clutch. When you start it up in the morning does the fan 'roar' for about a half a minute and then quiet down ? It should. Thats the clutch redistributing the fluid in it that settled over nite, if it continues to 'roar' it may be stuck. Just saw a pic somewhere in the last few days of a stuck one that looks like a washer came out and jammed on the shaft. I've not seen it happen myself. Bad pressure cap might also cause it.

damnit, didnt even think of the bleed hole, i jus tu burp the system, how would i know if its a open system, no overflow tank?

99chero said:

damnit, didnt even think of the bleed hole, i jus tu burp the system, how would i know if its a open system, no overflow tank?

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You have an open system in a 99, the bleed valve sits at the top of the thermostat and allows any air to escape into the system where it naturally escapes, if you have a bubble up there the temp sensor won't read correctly to an extent it might not even come out of cold loop. If you get a sudden drop in mileage thats why. The bleed hole in the thermostat flange is a very small hole that has a brass grommet in it, it allows very small flow of coolant even when the engine is stone cold, it's also up high enough to allow trapped air to get thru too.

Did you use a 195 thermostat or get a 180? OEM is 195 and the lower ones keep the system from working as intended.

Honestly it sounds like you don't have coolant flowing in your upper half (your tstat and heater core area). Could be an air pocket but could also be that your tstat is jammed or your heater core is blocked up. Remove the housing and check to see if the tstat is properly installed, see if there is any fresh moisture in the housing area, blow out the heater core with a garden hose... You need to run with heater full blast and wait for the engine to get hot enough for the tstat to open and it will bleed itself. Then refill as needed. All the air should be gone after three or four heat-up cycles.

well i guess i will hav to check the stat to make sure the bleed hole is at the top, yeh i got the OEM 195 stat and i already blew out the heater core.