pabloconrad
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- In the NW hunting Sasquatch
Are there any special tools/skill sets I need to replace the bearing on my D35 rear axle?
Thanks.
Thanks.
-
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Dana 35 bearing replacement
- Thread starter pabloconrad
- Start date
- Location
- Lafayette, CA
Press would be nice.
pabloconrad
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- In the NW hunting Sasquatch
A garlic press?
what kind? There are many varieties.
Thanks
what kind? There are many varieties.
Thanks
Frank Z
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado Springs
Which beaing> pinion, carrier, axleshaft?
pabloconrad
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- In the NW hunting Sasquatch
Axleshaft. It's loose as hell. There's a good half inch movement after I took off the tire and drum to inspect it.
Sucks. I live in Aspen and don't have a second car to shop around for parts.
Sucks. I live in Aspen and don't have a second car to shop around for parts.
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
Depends - is it a C-clip axle, or a "retainer plate" axle? You can find out pretty quickly by checking the side gears in the differential (that's where the C-clips are, if you have them.) No, the "Dana 35C" isn't automatically a C-clip axle - the "C" means "custom" - meaning the bare housing was sent to ChryCo, instead of being sent as an assembled axle.
If it's a C-clip axle, you'll need a slide hammer to remove the bearing form the housing, and you will need to carefully inspect the shaft. In C-clip axles, the bearing rides directly on the shaft surface - any imperfections in the bearing surface of the axle shaft means you'll need to either sleeve or replace the shaft, or you'll chew up bearings in a huge hurry...
In a "retainer plate" axle, the bearing has an inner and outer race, and is pressed onto the shaft using a large shop press. It can be removed by cutting (work carefully - the usual method is to drill a pit into the retainer ring and inner race of the bearing almost all the way through, then finish the job with a sharp cold chisel. I get more control using a Dremel with a reinforced cut-off wheel - the bearing or ring will usually "snap loose" before you go all the way through the thing, and you can then pull it off.) If you have a Dremel and pressed-on bearings, I do suggest you remove the bearings yourself - not only does this allow you to inspect the bare shaft, but you save the shop you go to work in pressing the bearings off (meaning that, usually, you can get both bearings pressed on for what it would cost you to have one removed and a new one installed. That's how it usually works out for me - $15 instead of $30 for both shafts.) You can also clean the retainer plate (which it usually needs) and make sure the surface that the bearing is pressed onto is still sound (it's a bit less critical, but you want to make sure there's no galling or cracking, as both can weaken the shaft.)
A slide hammer may help in removing the "semi-floating" shafts in the retainer plate axle, but it can also be improvised using a brake rotor or drum (keep an old one around for this purpose) - put it on backwards, and use some 1/2"-20 hex nuts threaded on loosely to pull against. If it won't pull loose with the larger "handle," then slap it in and out a couple of times to break it loose. The semi-floating shafts may be pulled without removing the differential cover.
The C-clip shafts will require opening up the differential anyhow, as you have to:
Remove the centre pin
Push the shafts inwards
Remove the C-clip (a pair of longnose pliers will help here.)
Pull out the axle shaft
Remove the bearing and seal
Pack the new bearing with grease
Install the new bearing and seal
Install the axle shaft
Install the C-clip (a coating of grease will help it stay put in the side gear while you pull the shaft back out to seat it. Pack the groove in the end of the axle shaft with grease to do this.)
Install the centre pin
Cover and refill the differential.
In both cases, you'll have to jack up the wheel to remove the shaft - but it's a lot less involved with the retainer plate ("semi-floating") axle than it is with the C-clip axle...
N.B. - AMC specs called for a semi-floating axle. The C-clips didn't start showing up until ChryCo took over - or a couple of years later. 1991 probably never got them, 1992 might have gotten a few. After that, it runs close to even odds in the Dana 35. I don't recall if the C8.25 is a semi-floating or a C-clip axle...
If it's a C-clip axle, you'll need a slide hammer to remove the bearing form the housing, and you will need to carefully inspect the shaft. In C-clip axles, the bearing rides directly on the shaft surface - any imperfections in the bearing surface of the axle shaft means you'll need to either sleeve or replace the shaft, or you'll chew up bearings in a huge hurry...
In a "retainer plate" axle, the bearing has an inner and outer race, and is pressed onto the shaft using a large shop press. It can be removed by cutting (work carefully - the usual method is to drill a pit into the retainer ring and inner race of the bearing almost all the way through, then finish the job with a sharp cold chisel. I get more control using a Dremel with a reinforced cut-off wheel - the bearing or ring will usually "snap loose" before you go all the way through the thing, and you can then pull it off.) If you have a Dremel and pressed-on bearings, I do suggest you remove the bearings yourself - not only does this allow you to inspect the bare shaft, but you save the shop you go to work in pressing the bearings off (meaning that, usually, you can get both bearings pressed on for what it would cost you to have one removed and a new one installed. That's how it usually works out for me - $15 instead of $30 for both shafts.) You can also clean the retainer plate (which it usually needs) and make sure the surface that the bearing is pressed onto is still sound (it's a bit less critical, but you want to make sure there's no galling or cracking, as both can weaken the shaft.)
A slide hammer may help in removing the "semi-floating" shafts in the retainer plate axle, but it can also be improvised using a brake rotor or drum (keep an old one around for this purpose) - put it on backwards, and use some 1/2"-20 hex nuts threaded on loosely to pull against. If it won't pull loose with the larger "handle," then slap it in and out a couple of times to break it loose. The semi-floating shafts may be pulled without removing the differential cover.
The C-clip shafts will require opening up the differential anyhow, as you have to:
Remove the centre pin
Push the shafts inwards
Remove the C-clip (a pair of longnose pliers will help here.)
Pull out the axle shaft
Remove the bearing and seal
Pack the new bearing with grease
Install the new bearing and seal
Install the axle shaft
Install the C-clip (a coating of grease will help it stay put in the side gear while you pull the shaft back out to seat it. Pack the groove in the end of the axle shaft with grease to do this.)
Install the centre pin
Cover and refill the differential.
In both cases, you'll have to jack up the wheel to remove the shaft - but it's a lot less involved with the retainer plate ("semi-floating") axle than it is with the C-clip axle...
N.B. - AMC specs called for a semi-floating axle. The C-clips didn't start showing up until ChryCo took over - or a couple of years later. 1991 probably never got them, 1992 might have gotten a few. After that, it runs close to even odds in the Dana 35. I don't recall if the C8.25 is a semi-floating or a C-clip axle...
xalexjx
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Newcomb, NY
you could also find an 8.25 axle on the cheap and swap it in, just make sure if you do that you get one with matching gears,
lawsoncl
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- North Idaho
His profile says 1985, which would be a non-clip. 5-90's advice as usual is stellar. Best to carefully cut the old bearing and lock collar off. I broke my bearing seperator try to get mine off before I decided to cut them. You need a press to put the new bearing and retaining collar on or have a shop do it. Have a look and notice which way the old bearing was facing. I'm not sure it makes a different, but I make sure to put the new ones on the same way. I would slide the new parts on in order (retainer, seal, bearing, then lock collar) and tap the lock collar down a bit to hold everything in place before heading for the shop to get them fully pressed on. That way the shop won't get anything out of order.
Do make sure you also do the outer seal since the bearing has to come off to replace that anyway. The kit with the retainer, outer seal, bearing, and lockcollar was part number 83501451 for my 89 D35 non-clip. This did not include the inner seal which is part number 83503010. Here's a picture of the kit.
http://www.just4jeep.com/catalog/product5962.html
Do make sure you also do the outer seal since the bearing has to come off to replace that anyway. The kit with the retainer, outer seal, bearing, and lockcollar was part number 83501451 for my 89 D35 non-clip. This did not include the inner seal which is part number 83503010. Here's a picture of the kit.
http://www.just4jeep.com/catalog/product5962.html
JNickel101
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Alamogordo, NM
pabloconrad said:
Sorry, that was just the funniest damn thing i read all day long....:eeks1:
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
lawsoncl said:
Yeah, but I consider reading profiles and sigs a variation on "assuming" - and what happens when we assume? That's right - we make an ASS of U and ME...
Besides, how many of us here have more than one rig?:nono:
So, it's safest to either get all the information up front, or just cover all contingencies where possible and/or necessary.
Anyhow, if you're working on an 85, you can go ahead and ignore the C-clip stuff. AMC didn't bother with that crap - probably another reason they got clobbered when ChryCo bought them in 1988...
lawsoncl
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- North Idaho
Well, that's assuming his profile is accurate. I've been wrong assuming that too.
pabloconrad
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- In the NW hunting Sasquatch
1985 XJ, w/3.4L v6 , TF909 auto tranny (heavy duty rebuild), NP207 transfer case, D30 disco front axle, D35 non-c rear axle, BFG 31x10.5 tires, 15" rims, 3.5" RE superflex lift, RE discos, Olympic Rock Winch bumper w/ stinger, Mile Marker 9500 winch, Conn-Ferr roof rack, K1000 CB Antenna, Cobra CB, 2 police scanners, Posi-lok for front axle, Tom Woods front drive shaft,
I can keep going.
Anywho. I really need to know the gear ratio as I believe w/280K mile on it, I should just replace it.
Oh yeah, A Ronco Garlic Press.
I can keep going.
Anywho. I really need to know the gear ratio as I believe w/280K mile on it, I should just replace it.
Oh yeah, A Ronco Garlic Press.
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
pabloconrad said:
Ronco? That should work neatly - but other brands will fall apart on you...:roflmao:
Got your PM - you know what I need to confirm your axle ratio. Let me know when you find it out, OK? The ratio is usually in the clear on the axle tag (bottom row right,) but I can also work with the BoM number if you don't have the tag anymore...
philip_g
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- back in CO
pabloconrad said:
Lok at the tag on the diff.
