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T60 for oil filter adaptor...where to find?

OverlandZJ

NAXJA Member # 101
Location
Bristol,PA
OK, i am having difficulty finding a T60 bit that will clear the frame rail. I picked a lisle brand that is 2.5" overall length and wont allow a ratchet on the end.

I'v searched Craftsman and Mac sites for the right driver that i can attach a wrench to...no luck.

I did find a T60 "L Key" that looks like it may work.

Where did you guys get the correct tool for this job?
 
I'm going to be doing mine soon, too. TheT60 problem is mentioned as an aside in a bunch of threads I've read recently - They all say it's a real bitch. -
Many folks have taken a 1/2" drive T60 and ground the piss out of it to make it short enough.

Others have had to jack the engine up and pull the engine mount to get at the bolt with a normal T60 driver.
 
I'v read a few of those posts in a search.

Here's GoJeep's write up and shown is his Torx kit, i have a similar one that only goes to T55...and rather not spend $200+ on another kit just to get the T60 such as he used from his kit. Just having trouble finding that bit seperately?

http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoOilAdaptorOrings.htm

I could buy a T60 driver bit and grind the socket off...
 
I don't think you'll ever find a T60 bit that is shallow enough to allow even a flex handle without some modification.

I got a bit at an auto parts store that sells "Parts Master" house brand. The bit wasn't very expensive, and it came individually. It was 1/2 inch drive, and the torx insert was separate from the socket, so it could be driven out and used with a 12 mm. box wrench. Clearance was too tight to put a handle on the socket, but when I tried to use the insert alone, I pretzeled my best Craftsman 12 mm. box wrench. To start the job, I welded a cheap wrench to the 1/2 inch drive socket (the wrench size was big enough to go around the outside of the socket, leaving the drive hole open), inserted the tool into the head of the bolt, stuck a pry bar between the socket and the frame to jam it in, and used a piece of pipe to turn the cheap box wrench. That bolt was TIGHT! I had a total wrench length of at least two feet, and it took a good hard yank to get it to budge. The hole in the bolt head is rather shallow, and not very precise, either, so I strongly advise some kind of shim between wrench and frame to press it in until it begins to loosen. Once it cracked loose, I punched the torx insert out of the socket and used a 12 mm. wrench to remove it the rest of the way. Even then, I had to be careful with frame clearance at the end, and used water pump pliers on the outside of the bolt for the last couple of turns.

At some point in the past I posted a picture of the wrench in question, but I'm not at home and have neither the picture nor the link. The wrench I welded on was a cheap stamped steel one from a motorcycle tool kit. Owing to the angle everything is mounted in the engine, it helps if the wrench has an offset, and the handle should be bent inward a little toward the tip of the torx bit.
 
John B said:
I could buy a T60 driver bit and grind the socket off...

That's what I did and it worked great.
http://www.toolsource.com/ost/produ...d=P0SQN2TUV8R98G91VQXW4UKW5WGU0P26ErrString=3
I had an old box end wrench that was basically shot and I spot welded a ground down Torx socket to the end. It cost less than ten bucks and works great. If I was doing a lot of work that involved Torx bolts I would look into the set shown on GoJeeps site, those look nice. Good Luck

Woody
 
Matthew, i saw the pic your referring to in my search.

Considering how tight you guys are saying it was i think i'll just grind down and weld an old wrench to the lisle bit i bought yesterday. I dont want to wait on one of the "L Key's" i spoke of and end up being to weak to keep it's shape.

I'm also going to check into swapping an older hex head adaptor to my 94, i'll read up on this at madxj.

Thanks all..
 
I did something really similar to Matthew. Found a socket and popped the T60 portion out of it and used a 12mm wrench with a section of pipe for persuasion. I think after everything flexed a bit, I was able to move the bolt about 2 inches. It took a while but it wasn't all that bad.
 
I need to change the oil filter O-Rings on my '95. After reading this thread I'm really not looking forward to it. :(
 
Once I got access to the bolt and figured out a way to get it out...it was a 30 minute job.
 
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