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DROP-TO-DESIRED-HEIGHT Component-Spec Dilemma

XpedientJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
MA
{Did not find anything in the archives that suits....}

I recently purchased a '99 XJ, with a more-recent further lift that includes: RE 5.5" front coils with 1 7/8" spacers ; and Rusty's 6.5" leaf packs with stock shackles.

Fenders have been cut 'n rolled. I wish to lower a few inches as, even with the 35's, it is higher than necessary for my intended non-harsh use and I feel that it needs to appear less modified....

I would like to achieve an approx. 2" drop in the rear, and then determine what will be suitable, in concert, in the front. The rear seems to sit about 2" higher than the front, so angulation vs. level comes into play, as well but the presence of the front coil-spacer will certainly give options to stay level or drop-to-suit.

I NEED TO DETERMINE JUST WHAT COMPONENTS WILL GIVE ME THE DESIRED FINAL HEIGHT/REDUCTION. I have some difficulty here, as I don't have an original-position reference point(s). The Rusty's packs are 6.5" units, but apparently have yielded an effective 7.5" lift(which is not unusual, until settled, from what I have read...). Thus, I'm not at all sure if it is simply a matter of obtaining leaf packs that are speced at, and will give a true, 4.5" lift to achieve the targeted 2" reduction..?? Further, I'm a bit thrown by the fact that the present Rusty's packs sit such that the stock shackles are FULLY forward at-rest and lean against the front of the frame-mount box housing...which doesn't, at all, appear or seem proper...and, causes a loud and inappropriate metal-to-metal contact whenever bumps cause an unweighting!(I have noted that stock positioning is near the rear of the mount housing, in contrast...) It sure seems that these packs have an eye-to-eye length that is too short.. I understand that longer shackles would, necessarily, move the eye back and away from the front of the box, but I just don't know how much the result would be spring compression/lowering vs. further vehicle lift?? I suspect much more of the latter....

I have read that somewhat longer shackles are desirable for increased spring articulation. While I don't intend much real hammering, I do want things to be right, and work right, when they need to. That said, WHAT SHACKLE LENGTH IS BEST, to begin with?? Greasable, with a cross-bracing stiffener, seems to be the way to go? What recommendations would you give re length, and brand?? *Shackle length would certainly seem to factor-in prior to selecting pack lift, relative to the formula used to spec packs to achieve overall target??

THEN, once the shackle length is determined, what spring-pack lift height would be appropriate?? (and, how do I deal with the inch-higher-then-spec factor that seems prevalent?? Should I get something 1" less than target, and deal with any sag later on?? I don't want to wait a year to achieve the desired height!)

- Tom Woods drive shaft is supposed to be speced for the current (6.5" 'advertised')
Will the intended drop put this shaft out of serviceable range? Will it be usable,
but not fully proper for hard use, so I can do that a bit later, or is it rather certainly
a must-replace-at-same-time component?

- Shocks are supposed to be proper for current height, as well. I imagine that,
ideally desirable to sit a resting mid-point of range-of-travel, this is a less critical
area, and that I can use them, at least for a while?

- Current shim at 6-degrees, which does not yield an in-line shaft-to-diff alignment..
Thus, I assume the same shims may well be ideal, and even more suited, at the
intended lower height?

***So, it seems that my primary question/need is: WHAT pack lift-spec will give the desired reduction, and that after/in-conunction-with the selection of WHAT shackle length??

I like to do things right, and want quality components. From some commentaries, I'm disinclined to use Rusty's packs, and lean toward RE as was used for front coils.. NOT looking to stir controversy, just like to know what the never-fail/unequivocal-quality products are, from those who know...


I'll be very thankful for ANY input and guidance! I appreciate this Forum and the willing assistance from the knowledgeable gents (and, I imagine, a few ladies...?) here.

THANK YOU!!!
 
i will try to help out.

most springs give more lift than advertised because they all settle and the companies dont want to be blamed for nto giving enough lift, so the kinda over compensate. for example, i bought a RE6130 (4.5") lift kit which included 3.5" lift springs in rear and a 1.25" shackle, after first install i was sittin 7" higher than stock, since has leveled off to 5". i would stick with a RE 4.5" leafs or similar.

also, shackles only give 1/2 of the lift. if you have a shackle that is 1" longer than stock, it will give you 1/2" lift. i have heard this is because it only lifts one end of the spring.

another thing to consider with shims is that shackles effectively rotate the pinion up, so the longer your shackle, the lesser shims you will need. sitting at 5" with a SYE and no t-case drop with the 1.25" shackle, 2.5* shims worked out for me.

your driveshaft will still be fine, as the hypotenuse of the suspension geometry, it changes the least with lifting (the angles change quite a bit, but the length changes only slightly). i am still using my stock driveshaft out front on 5" lift. if you lower your jeep said 2" your driveshaft my shorten about 1/2" but i doubt that much. to test this, measure how much slip is left in the d/s then load up teh XJ til is sags 2" (about 400lbs) then measure how much slip is left now and subtract.

hopefully some of this babbling will help you, i know its not all tech info, but its what i have gathered from my experiences.

-Tim
 
fordtech said:
sounds like the rear shackle is inverted....

huh? they wont fit on up-side down or "inverted"...and even if they were on backwards, then it wouldnt chage his problem, besides most good XJ shackles are clearanced in the rear to clear the bumper bolts...

-Tim
 
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