New Brake Pads

The stelarship is putting new rotors on wed morning, so I figure Ill have them put new pads in as well. Im looking at the autozone ceramics, as at 38 dollars they are the best priced. ZCarQuest wanted 68 dollars for the ceramics. Any input?

Man, unless you are getting them for free having the dealer put new rotors on is a total waste of whatever they are charging. Fronts are so darn easy.
1. jack up front
2. remove wheels
3. remove two bolts on caliper and lift caliper off, hang up out of way with old clothes hanger bent to fit..
4. swear a blue streak because the rotor fell off and landed on your toes while you were screwing with the caliper hanging
5. Use small c clamp to push piston back into caliper
6. Pop off old pads
7. Stick some 'no noise' goop on the backside of new pads.
8. Snap new pads into caliper, lube sliders with slider grease
9. Stick on new rotor and keep hand on it so it does not hit your toes again
10. Stick the caliper back on and reinstall bolts
11. Reinstall wheel.
Repeat on other side except remove rotor as soon as you get the caliper off to protect your toes from a repeat performance...
Thats it...
The only 'warning' is when reinstalling the caliper bolts be sure you don't cross thread them, I'm very careful and pretty much hand tighten them, got this nifty 'ratchet without a handle' that works great for this because you can still feel the threading...

I am guessing it warranty work?

Oh of course. So about the pads. . . What does everyone think of autozone ceramix?

I use the Advance Auto Ceramic pads. I love them, there cheap, and they last a while, dont make a lot of dust, and they stop fine.

Littlewhitexj said:

I use the Advance Auto Ceramic pads. I love them, there cheap, and they last a while, dont make a lot of dust, and they stop fine.

Click to expand...

yeah i just threw on some friction master ceramics from AAP, they're made by morse and they stop reallllyyy well.

^^them's the ones.

RichP said:

Man, unless you are getting them for free having the dealer put new rotors on is a total waste of whatever they are charging. Fronts are so darn easy.
1. jack up front
2. remove wheels
3. remove two bolts on caliper and lift caliper off, hang up out of way with old clothes hanger bent to fit..
4. swear a blue streak because the rotor fell off and landed on your toes while you were screwing with the caliper hanging
5. Use small c clamp to push piston back into caliper
6. Pop off old pads
7. Stick some 'no noise' goop on the backside of new pads.
8. Snap new pads into caliper, lube sliders with slider grease
9. Stick on new rotor and keep hand on it so it does not hit your toes again
10. Stick the caliper back on and reinstall bolts
11. Reinstall wheel.
Repeat on other side except remove rotor as soon as you get the caliper off to protect your toes from a repeat performance...
Thats it...
The only 'warning' is when reinstalling the caliper bolts be sure you don't cross thread them, I'm very careful and pretty much hand tighten them, got this nifty 'ratchet without a handle' that works great for this because you can still feel the threading...

Click to expand...

Wow, were you standing behind me last time I changed my brakes? Thats pretty much what happened to me, and those damn rotors hurt when they hit your toes!

For me I run Napa pads and rotors. Got the el cheapo rotors and the mid range priced pads, not one complaint out of me. The pads dont hardly put off any brake dust untill about a week of riding around town (or when I get sporty with my driving style) and i don't get one squeek, squeal, or moan out of them.

Now the pads on the drums, thats a COMPLETELY different story.

I just put autozone ceramics on last week, made by morse So ithought they may safe. Excellent stopping, no noise, no dust, and clean wheels! Yeah for me. I rotated tires and checked pads because I thought I would be pulling a camper, absolutely got every bit of life out factory pads - glad I didnt go another 500 miles. Close call. :guitar: <--- love that guy!

Too many positive posts can't hurt right? I run those Autozone ceramics (Morse) and they have held up just fine. I have had them on for a little over a year.

These things are great. I like the moorse pads.

It's at the dealership, will they install parts that you supply? Ask them first, if you haven't already...they may not.

If they will, just go to AutoZone and get whatever pads they have in stock.

In n out gift certificate and freebie six flags ticket sticking part way out of the box placed on the passenger seat took care of that.

RichP said:

Man, unless you are getting them for free having the dealer put new rotors on is a total waste of whatever they are charging. Fronts are so darn easy.
1. jack up front
2. remove wheels
3. remove two bolts on caliper and lift caliper off, hang up out of way with old clothes hanger bent to fit..
4. swear a blue streak because the rotor fell off and landed on your toes while you were screwing with the caliper hanging
5. Use small c clamp to push piston back into caliper
6. Pop off old pads
7. Stick some 'no noise' goop on the backside of new pads.
8. Snap new pads into caliper, lube sliders with slider grease
9. Stick on new rotor and keep hand on it so it does not hit your toes again
10. Stick the caliper back on and reinstall bolts
11. Reinstall wheel.
Repeat on other side except remove rotor as soon as you get the caliper off to protect your toes from a repeat performance...
Thats it...
The only 'warning' is when reinstalling the caliper bolts be sure you don't cross thread them, I'm very careful and pretty much hand tighten them, got this nifty 'ratchet without a handle' that works great for this because you can still feel the threading...

Click to expand...

im just going to modify your instrutions.
step 3 and 1/2: secure a lug nut up to the rotor to prevent step 4

modified step 9:Remove lug nut and old rotor. Place new rotor on and secure again with lug nut.

step 11 : remove lug nut install tire and torqe to factory spec. ussaly between 95-105 ft. lbs.

ok I will be the Odd ball here.

I installed the Ceramic compound pads that Autozone sells/stocks for/on my wifes 04 GC. what POS's I never thought about it and I should of... A ceramic pad is more tuned and made for higher heat and harder stoping vehicles. Meaning you compare a Ceramic to a semi metalic or organic pad and for the first few stops you will be lucky to get 1/2 the stopping force. It may even continue for longer then a few stops. Not to mention that in water or when crawling in 4low and not using them much at all and needing to stop instantly, I would not trust em. This is from first hand use, not hear say...

I went to a hawk semi metalic type pad on my SRT, my F-150, a dodge stratus, and on the wifes GC and can honestly say that not only does it stop much nicer but its not and dirty (brake dust) either. One trade off is the noise. If you dont hear them stopping you (any pad) then its not going to be a pad that I would want to run. Not a squel or squek, but the friction material to metal sound.

just my .02

PS. I forgot to mention I run the 13$ auto zone cheapys on my 1990 with the WJ booster and master and a 8.8" rear with the stock disc form the 8.8 and the D30 is all stock and I can lock up all four with 35" tires and have never felt any brake fad nor worry about stopping.

I had the semi-metallic autozone specials on my '95 XJ. They definitely last forever. Squealed like crazy, terrible stopping when hot. Changed to NAPA ceramics this weekend - no comparison. After they were bedded, I've been able to stop in much smaller distance than with the semi-metallic. I need pads to handle the heat towing up and down long hills.

RichP said:

Man, unless you are getting them for free having the dealer put new rotors on is a total waste of whatever they are charging. Fronts are so darn easy.
1. jack up front
2. remove wheels
3. remove two bolts on caliper and lift caliper off, hang up out of way with old clothes hanger bent to fit..
4. swear a blue streak because the rotor fell off and landed on your toes while you were screwing with the caliper hanging
5. Use small c clamp to push piston back into caliper
6. Pop off old pads
7. Stick some 'no noise' goop on the backside of new pads.
8. Snap new pads into caliper, lube sliders with slider grease
9. Stick on new rotor and keep hand on it so it does not hit your toes again
10. Stick the caliper back on and reinstall bolts
11. Reinstall wheel.
Repeat on other side except remove rotor as soon as you get the caliper off to protect your toes from a repeat performance...
Thats it...
The only 'warning' is when reinstalling the caliper bolts be sure you don't cross thread them, I'm very careful and pretty much hand tighten them, got this nifty 'ratchet without a handle' that works great for this because you can still feel the threading...

Click to expand...

Just did my front brakes yesterday. #4 never happened, in fact, I didn't even take the discs off to sand and clean them like I wanted to because they wouldn't come off with reasonable force. I'll replace 'em next time, but I was worried they would be damaged if I applied any more force. I'm blaming Michigan winters and salt corrosion. They didn't even have the retaining rings the fsm showed, just rust.

BTW and off topic, I lubed everything while I was under there, and I can't believe how much grease all the front fittings toook! I have a good deal at the dealership and had just been letting them do my oil changes, (LOF), but not any more!