Front end clunk, most noticeable when turning left

(I'm putting this in the OEM forum because the only non-OEM part of my front end is a pair of coil spacers, and I don't think that they're to blame for this).

In the last day or so I've begun noticing a definite 'clunk' sound somewhere in the front of my 90 XJ. It's most noticeable when I turn left, not all the way to the point where my 31s begin rubbing on the LCAs, but just a little to the left. And it's not a super-loud or 'harsh' clunk; it's sort of a mild clunk that makes it sound like something's a little loose.

I think the only thing I've done to the XJ in the last few days that might be related to this clunk is that I reinstalled my front swaybar Wednesday morning in preparation for a 500 mile trip.

It's too late now to run outside and crawl under my Jeep, but what should I check tomorrow morning?

I'd be interested in what to look into also, as I'm having a clunking sound on left turns myself. Really it's a rythmic(sp) clunck-clunk-clunk up to about half way to lock, dosen't really do on right turns oddly enough.

Pat

It sounds like you have a similar, if not the same, problem. It doesn't make a clunk when turning to the right for me either.

I'm a little worried that it could be a u-joint, I'm hoping it's not the driver's side; I need that driver's side shaft to put into my new non-disco D30 and would really prefer to not have to change out a u-joint.

changing the u-joint is not something to be feared. It's really pretty simple and will take an afternoon at worst.
I would investigate your trackbar mount, make sure the bolts are tight.

an afternooon?! my first ever took 2 hours, and that includes a trip to harbor freight for a vice.

I'm not worried about changing a u-joint; it's just that I have so much to do (swap both axles, assemble brakes on both, rebuild my leaf packs, et c.) and so little time to do it (I'm going wheeling two weeks from today). It's a little intimidating to someone whose only previous successful auto repair job was replacing a D30 hub assembly. A u-joint would just be another new challenge to deal with, and I'd prefer if I didn't need to do it. That's all.

an afternoon AT WORST.
it all depends if he's ever had the axleshafts out, or if his bearings are seized in the knuckle, or if the 12pt bolts are seized. It will take 15 minutesto change the u-joint, but it may take an afternoon to get at it.

87manche said:

an afternoon AT WORST.
it all depends if he's ever had the axleshafts out, or if his bearings are seized in the knuckle, or if the 12pt bolts are seized. It will take 15 minutesto change the u-joint, but it may take an afternoon to get at it.

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If it turns out to be that drivers side u-joint, it should be very easy to get to. I changed that hub 4,000 miles ago and was liberal in use of anti-seize when re-assembling it.

Mambeu said:

I'm not worried about changing a u-joint; it's just that I have so much to do (swap both axles, assemble brakes on both, rebuild my leaf packs, et c.) and so little time to do it (I'm going wheeling two weeks from today). It's a little intimidating to someone whose only previous successful auto repair job was replacing a D30 hub assembly. A u-joint would just be another new challenge to deal with, and I'd prefer if I didn't need to do it. That's all.

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I see that you're in new york.
I'm in OH and just did an axle swap. Get some spare LCA and UCA bolts. My UCA bolts came out fine, but the LCA bolts were seized in the bushing. Rust sucks.
One I had to cut out with a sawzall, both sides of the bushing. The bushings were destroyed, I didn't care because I had new LCA's to go on.
The other side I cut the bolt off and then used the nut to pull it free, try this first, it was much easier.
Air tools make it much easier.
With air tools and 3 people wrenching it took 12 hours to get the old axles out and new axles in. THis included rebuilding the leaf packs with a long AAL and doing new coils and shocks all the way round. Get some friends, the whole thing can be done in a weekend.

I figured out my clunk. It was the swaybar. I had only put it back on for my long road trip, and that's when I first noticed the clunk. Took off the swaybar, and voila! no more clunk.

87manche said:

I see that you're in new york.
I'm in OH and just did an axle swap. Get some spare LCA and UCA bolts. My UCA bolts came out fine, but the LCA bolts were seized in the bushing. Rust sucks.

Click to expand...

Suprisingly enough, none of the bolts seized in any bushing. I still had to mutilate the bolts, though, because I couldn't manipulate my little bottle jack well enough to take pressure off the bolts enough to pull them out. That, and the Torx-head UCA bolts stripped completely.