Custom yoke style SYE for the 242 or 231 done.

I have just put up a write up on a SYE install I did using the yoke off a Corvette on my 242. This allowed me to have the same drive shaft front and rear ( so long as you have a auto and a D44 or 8.25 axle ) and it is far more stable and completely leak proof, unlike the RE hack and tap flange. The yoke goes all the way down the output shaft to be supported against the output bearing if you have a pre 96. No movement at all in it even after a year of testing and not a drop lost.
This can also be used on a 231 XJ, TJ or some ZJ's be it early or late. 96 on will not require the seal housing and will need to cut the yoke shorter.
See my write up under driveline modifications on my site.
http://go.jeep-xj.info

This shows how it sits against the bearing BEFORE the yoke and shaft were shortened.

Shortened yoke in place.

And what it looked like yesterday after a year of running.

I got the yoke from Tom Woods and have the part number in my write up. I discussed this conversion with him over a year ago and he didn't want me to do the write up until I had proven it worked long term. He thought it sounded really good in principle but think he is also worried about losing some sales of his SYE conversion!
I want to also say thanks to John Herrick who showed my idea would work as, unknown to me at the time, had done something similar already proving my concept worked.

Its the same set-up Glocoe has ben selling for years!

RCP Phx said:

Its the same set-up Glocoe has ben selling for years!

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Who are they? Can you give me a link please?

How much of the output shaft did you cut?? I currently have a re1801 installed and I'm interested in going tpo a yoke setup.Thanks

His write-up says cut all but 1.25" of the splines

Gojeep said:

Who are they? Can you give me a link please?

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I'm interested too.

Gojeep do you have the seal# you used I can cross it at work and post a number for everyone.

This is the kit I tried 6yrs ago on my 2month old 2000.It WAS better but not perfect,replaced it 2 months later with a JB kit and never had an issue since.
http://driveshaftsuperstore.com/SYE_Kits_$375.htm

TNT said:

I'm interested too.

Gojeep do you have the seal# you used I can cross it at work and post a number for everyone.

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I tried that already for John Herrick and the numbers I had could not be cross reference to anything he could find. I just did a search and found this number for the seal but dont know the brand etc? #28550 or a Alko part number of #491015 http://www.alko.com.au/vehicle/hubs_bearings/bearings.html
It is in the first LM Bearing set details. It shows a outer dimension of 59.10 mm ( 2.327" ) and a 37.5 mm ( 1.476" ) shaft size.

I'm really happy with how mine turned out and I'm using on the D35 so throw that option in to your list of axles Marcus. We had the benefit of a 2 post lift and could take fully weighted and unloaded measurements before cutting the yoke and the output shaft. The amounts cut off were about equal and I'm running a front shaft from a 4.0 and AW4 in mine. The front shaft dimater is fine and the specs all calculate well for critical speed and overall length etc. from the Spicer guidebook.

It's one of my favorite modifications because it solves a storage problem for 2 different shafts and allows for a better ride with u-joint longevity I didn't have running a stock shaft in the single cardan and slip yoke arrangement.

Getting a seal that specs a few thousandths smaller would likely help since the seals I've tried are 1.500" in shaft diameter and the shaft is 1.500". I get a slight amount of fluid loss but not enough to modify the design. The seals Marcus sent me are giving similar results so I am not too worried.

Good to hear from you John on this. You left your output shaft a bit longer so you could still run a front shaft with the shorter yoke on the D35 over the D44 from memory. Do you have the part number of the US source seal you were using before I sent you mine? Funny that you have slight wetness ( I think that is what you told me ) and I have none after a year with the same seal now? Maybe some surface difference or movement in your shaft?

ive definatly seen this somewhere else, w/ the vette yoke, well over a year ago

tealcherokee said:

ive definatly seen this somewhere else, w/ the vette yoke, well over a year ago

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Gold star for you

tealcherokee said:

ive definatly seen this somewhere else, w/ the vette yoke, well over a year ago

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I know, I posted the idea on here over a year ago.

Awesome Write-Up, people like you make paying to be a member of worth every penny!

Marcus:

Great writeup as usual. One question though. I like you method for cutting the shaft while it's spinning. I've read your suggestion on the forums before. On question though. Why would one need to remove the rear wheels and put the vehicle on Jack stands if the rear driveshaft has been removed? The driveshaft is removed while cutting, according to your writeup (and pics). That doesn't really make sense to me. In fact, I would think that would be inherintly more dangerous. If 4wd was accidentally engaged, the vehicle could fall on you...

The trick is to have the rear axle on stands with the wheels off. Make sure it is in 2wd and the front wheels well chocked. Then start the engine and engage reverse. This will have the shaft spinning while you cut it with a angle grinder with a cut off wheel.

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Ha ha, very good point and was just habit of writing that in there. Will remove it. I had wheels off as was changing to a D44 at the same time.

Gojeep, Did you weld the plug on the end of the yoke? I did the same thing for my SYE a few years back and found that the plug in the end of the yoke is just pressed in and the yoke backed off allowing it to slip on the splines some.

Probably wouldn't be a problem with how you did it though. I used a late model TJ output from a guy who did the HD SYE so I had quite a bit of shaft that the yoke could back down. Caused the U-joint to come in contact with the shaft and bolt.

jmop said:

Gojeep, Did you weld the plug on the end of the yoke? I did the same thing for my SYE a few years back and found that the plug in the end of the yoke is just pressed in and the yoke backed off allowing it to slip on the splines some.

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On my setup I used a large heavy washer that fit hole well and welded it into place. The disc that was provided to cap the hole in the end was much too thin and would not have held the unit in place with the strength needed.

The end cap on mine was quite thick and I did not weld it. As the yoke is all the way down to the bearing, the yoke cannot not move down the output shaft. The cap just prevents to oil was escaping and for it to move in the rearward direction. I have a washer over the top of it as well which the bolt that goes into the end of the shaft bolts through holding it against the end of the shaft. So that holds it against the recess in the yoke. There is next to no force trying to pull off the yoke anyway in that direction.

Your's must have been different than mine in that regard. Mine was a very thin metal disc that was actually press fit into place and popped right out when I pushed on it. Nothing but tension held it in place. That was the reason I decided to get a proper fitting washer and weld it into place.

It's probably overkill as mine is also right up against the bearing, but it seemed prudent.