What's your current Engine Oil??

What's your brand and oil weight?

I thought i was set with GTX 10w40 until i found BITOG and now i'm lost in all the choices.

Rotella T 15w-40

How's your rig running on Rotella. This oil is also in my new running

So far, so good. I've only had it in for about 250 miles. I'll keep using it until they start selling it without the zinc in it. After that...:dunno:

Mobil 1 Synthetic...10W30, Napa Gold (wix) Filter.

edited to add filter brand.

Ive heard you cant go synthetic after using regular for a long time. Is this just a myth?

proline 10w-40

88xjlover said:

Ive heard you cant go synthetic after using regular for a long time. Is this just a myth?

Click to expand...

As far as i can tell...it really depends. Sometimes people can switch at 200,000+ miles and have no troubles. But i have also read of people switching at much lower miles and leaks appear. Then when they go back to dino oil, the leaking stops or slows.

I guess it depends on your own engine and how the seals are holding up.

88xjlover said:

Ive heard you cant go synthetic after using regular for a long time. Is this just a myth?

Click to expand...

Sometimes, you can develop some leaks when switching to synthetic in a higher milage engine. I developed one (oil filter adaptor) after switching, but drove it for over a year before it began to let go.

It really depends on what condition your engine is in. If you have alot of sludge build up, then chances are that slidge is holding your seals together, and switching would make you more prone to leaking. However, if you have a relatively clean motor, you would stand less of a chance.

Personally, when mine began leaking after switching to synthetic, it told me which seals I need to go ahead and replace.

I'm extremely pleased with the switch. I've noticed a quieter engine, especially in the mornings (less tapping), i've also noticed it running smoother, and I swear I get slightly better MPG with synthetic vs. regular.

Castrol 10w-40, Wix filter

switched at 85K to Mobil1 10/30 full syth, noticed some seepage but nothing drips. Last 5-6 oil changes I have changed to Royal Purple 10/30, sounds better with this stuff. I have heard that Mobil1 10/30 full synth isnt really the best stuff, something about high wear rates, high metal content in oil, etc..., dont know for sure. It just seems alot quieter with Royal Purple in it. 10/40 for the summer. Closing in on 160K, so far so good.

Synthetic is king period. It has the ability to creep into tiny spaces kinda like osmossis or capillary action. The trade off is that it also can creep out of places you want to keep it. It will leak and burn some if the engine is not tight. Mobile one,Amsoil,Purple stuff and a few high end synthetics are the ONLY true synthetics. The rest are man made crap that can only be called synthetic because of a law suit they won. They are man made so they can be called synthetic but they are different animals. Rottella is next in line because it has nasty pulluting stuff in it that is an extream pressure lubricant. We would't want that in our engines now would we. They say it can also degrade your O2 sensor. I'll take my chances. Rottell T is a high Viscosity 15W40 so if you want to thin it out add a quart of thin mobil one.
You can get 75% of the benifits of synthetic by useing 25% synthetic. The next issue with synthetic and Rottella comes from the fact that they are both high detergent and can break crud away from places that the crude is stopping the oil from leaking or burning. Who cares about a person that has neglected their engine to this point. If you buy a used jeep and the oil is black in a few days Then you have a lot of crud in you engine. Steer clear of both.

Mobil 5000 10w30 with a Baldwin filter.

Kim

Runnin' GC 0w-30 (that's 'German Castrol', which is made there and is a true full-syn, unlike the Castrol 'full synthetic' made here...). Glad to have the cold-flow capability during these recent/current coooold days.. Yet, it is actually one of the thicker-at-30 syns.

Switched over when the rig had about 77K, no probs thus far. It is available at Auto Zone, and not many other places...

Penzoil 10-40 Fram Filter With Neodinium Mag on top 250LB lift strength... in both

Castrol SYNTEC Blend 10w-40

Purolator PUREone L30001 < it is oversided than the stock one

castrol GTX 10/40 with a Purolator filter, and a can of Restore @ each oil change 3K miles, give or take a couple hundred. Been doing that regimen since about 130K miles...seems to work well. The mighty 2.5L is at 174K at the moment.

Jeff

Mobil 1 5W 30 and Mobil One Filter M-301

I currently have havoline 10w30.
I will be switching to mobil 1 10w30, with some sort of high-quality filter and possibly a bypass filter (filters down to 1 micron). SAE had a paper published in 1966 [#[SIZE=-1]650316][/SIZE] with research done by some people from International Harvester Co. that said 50% of wear is done by particles 5 microns and smaller. (Human hair is 75 to 100 microns, so... I haven't made up my mind on the truth of this paper.)

Some good links on oil
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/oil-life.html
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/postlist.php?Cat=0&Board=UBB3
go to that ^ link and search the used oil analysis for whatever engine you're interested in.

I'm always looking for an answer, but it seems like I'll just have to form my own opinion...