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same bolts

M

MR. XJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Houston TX
small question, if i remove the ring out of my carrier too install a aussie locker can i reuse the same bolts? and if can what is the amount of lb i can use.

thanks
 
Sometimes, depending on gear ratio (thickness of ring gear) it is necessary to pull the ring gear to get the cross shaft out. I ran into this on a 3.55 on a D44.
 
96XJay said:
Sometimes, depending on gear ratio (thickness of ring gear) it is necessary to pull the ring gear to get the cross shaft out. I ran into this on a 3.55 on a D44.
Click to expand...

so how in the hell would you put the c-clips back in if it were a 35 or 8.8. Also would you re-set the backlash like a good little jeeper?
 
goodburbon said:
so how in the hell would you put the c-clips back in if it were a 35 or 8.8. Also would you re-set the backlash like a good little jeeper?
Click to expand...


I'm not sure I like your tone? Anyway.... First off you'd have to be a knucklehead to put a locker in a D35 anyway. So, I'm not touching that one. As for the 8.8... grind a tooth or two to make clearance. I prefer this method over notching the cross shaft.

As for backlash... it shouldn't change.

Why would I grind a tooth on the D44 I was working on when it's just as easy to pull the carrier. I suppose if I was wanting to take the easy way out I would have done it that way. But, it's not a big deal to pull a carrier in those cases where c-clips are not involved.
 
Its been awhile but IIRC with a D30 and a 4.56 you do have to pull the ring gear to get the pin out. Otherwise you would have to remove an entire tooth lol.
 
Cool I haven't been into one in ages. But then again pulling the ring gear isn't exactly rocket science. Much less of a chance to F things up that way IMO. Just make sure it goes on the exact way it came off.
 
Reuse your bolts, be sure to LocTite them. I dont know what the torque should be offhand.
 
thanks for answering my question. just a little info. a have a d44 with 4.88
and the ring is real thick thats the reason i need to move the ring.
 
Man, I'm gonna disagree all around.
First, it's not the hard way to pull the ring gear. It's the correct way.
Second, when reinstalling the ring gear, it's not necessary to 'make sure it goes on the way it came off'. It is important to clear all the previous thread locker off the carrier plate and remove all residue from the ring gear bolt holes. This is Very important. the carrier plate Must be free of contaminates. It will affect the ring gear run out. take some time and make sure all the lock tite is removed, and clean it with brake cleaner as well.
Third, Do not reuse the ring gear bolts. Get new ones. Most parts stores and for sure NAPA carries them. If you can't find some I'll send you some new ones.
Torque spec for a D-44 ring gear is 55 ft lbs. Torque in two steps, say 45 and then 55. Don't use a hammer to remove the ring gear, use a rubber mallet or platic dead blow. Do use red lock tite on the NEW ring gear bolts.

Takes about 20 minutes to remove and replace a ring gear on the bench. How long will it take to grind a tooth or two you can't put back?

My $.02
Oh yeah, and back lash will not change as it is set by the shims behind the carrier bearings on a D-44.
 
DaffyXJ said:
Man, I'm gonna disagree all around.
First, it's not the hard way to pull the ring gear. It's the correct way.
Second, when reinstalling the ring gear, it's not necessary to 'make sure it goes on the way it came off'. It is important to clear all the previous thread locker off the carrier plate and remove all residue from the ring gear bolt holes. This is Very important. the carrier plate Must be free of contaminates. It will affect the ring gear run out. take some time and make sure all the lock tite is removed, and clean it with brake cleaner as well.
Third, Do not reuse the ring gear bolts. Get new ones. Most parts stores and for sure NAPA carries them. If you can't find some I'll send you some new ones.
Torque spec for a D-44 ring gear is 55 ft lbs. Torque in two steps, say 45 and then 55. Don't use a hammer to remove the ring gear, use a rubber mallet or platic dead blow. Do use red lock tite on the NEW ring gear bolts.

Takes about 20 minutes to remove and replace a ring gear on the bench. How long will it take to grind a tooth or two you can't put back?

My $.02
Oh yeah, and back lash will not change as it is set by the shims behind the carrier bearings on a D-44.
Click to expand...





thanks for the info. how mach will you sale me the new bolt for i will feel beter if i use new ones.
 
DaffyXJ said:
Man, I'm gonna disagree all around.
First, it's not the hard way to pull the ring gear. It's the correct way.
Second, when reinstalling the ring gear, it's not necessary to 'make sure it goes on the way it came off'. It is important to clear all the previous thread locker off the carrier plate and remove all residue from the ring gear bolt holes. This is Very important. the carrier plate Must be free of contaminates. It will affect the ring gear run out. take some time and make sure all the lock tite is removed, and clean it with brake cleaner as well.
Third, Do not reuse the ring gear bolts. Get new ones. Most parts stores and for sure NAPA carries them. If you can't find some I'll send you some new ones.
Torque spec for a D-44 ring gear is 55 ft lbs. Torque in two steps, say 45 and then 55. Don't use a hammer to remove the ring gear, use a rubber mallet or platic dead blow. Do use red lock tite on the NEW ring gear bolts.

Takes about 20 minutes to remove and replace a ring gear on the bench. How long will it take to grind a tooth or two you can't put back?

My $.02
Oh yeah, and back lash will not change as it is set by the shims behind the carrier bearings on a D-44.
Click to expand...

Any time you break loose a "worn in system" such as a R&P you run the risk of it not going together just right, and being noisy upon reassembly.

Since removing the ring gear is the "correct way" to install, then all of the people who run c-clip axles have no "correct way" to install them.

I understand your concern, but it will take 5 minutes with a grinder, (10 with a smaller grinder/dremel) and 5 minutes to install the locker. Add in 2- minutes for cleaning the diff out and take into account that you don't have to drop the carrier makes it the easier, safer, and faster way.
 
The way I see it... if I can install a lunchbox locker and not have any grinded away material in the diff... I'm going to do it because it is the smarter, more "correct" way. If it has c-clips then grinding a tooth or two is the correct and only way as there are no other alternatives.

To each his own. If it works for you that way go for it. If it works for someone else another way go for it. Both ways apparently work without negative consequences. One can make a judgement call on their own to which way they would like to handle it.
 
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